sportinawoody is sportinablown motor is sportin a new build thread

sportinawoody

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776 at full operating temp on 93. Same tune I drive around with:)

Still a 4.6

Itty bitty 127350 cams

Stage 1 heads

1 5/8 headers/2.5" collectors/2.5" X-pipe/3" "tails" and mufflers (dumped at axle)

The dyno I use is a heartbreaker too

You should be able to do better with turbo's:thumb2:
what's your F/I details if I may ask ?
 

Department Of Boost

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what's your F/I details if I may ask ?

Whipple 3.4L Crusher, L&M 72mm TB and a JLT 156mm MAF.

The blower is only spinning a lowly 12,000rpm's.

The torque is identical to what my 2.6L KB made spinning at 18,000rpm.......until 3500rpm (engine speed). Then the 3.4L "takes off".

The IAT's are stupid low too.
 

jodadejss06gt

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I know everyone has there on theories about safe levels with 93, but my tuner won't run anything past 700 on it. If that's where he stops then that's fine by me.

OP how much do you anticipate making as an end goal on pump 93.
 

jodadejss06gt

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Either of you care to expand upon this? Are they taking into account your CR + boost as to a safe working compression?
 

roberts

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Lito told me 13psi or 700rwho witch ever one came first. He also said E85 would be safer. So i send my pumps back and im doing e85. I dont wanna spend all this money and 93 oct be the reason my motor let go or something like that.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Either of you care to expand upon this? Are they taking into account your CR + boost as to a safe working compression?


There's a bit more to it than just the CR and the boost. It's those plus the temp of the air/fuel mixture that cause it ignite spontaneously.

Hence why lower IATs and fuel temps are better: the cooler the air and fuel are going in, the less likely they are to blow up early.
 

05stroker

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My tuner knows me well enough to do what ever I want and he knows I would never blame a damn thing on his tune . That's just me though, I like to push the edge sometimes, I just wish I could have seen his face when I emailed him and told him I was doing a 12.0:1 c/r build with 20 psi! LOL

OP, when do you plan to be back up and running?
 
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sportinawoody

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starting to fit bearings tonight. hoping to sell the whipple and other stuff to go ahead with the twin turbo's. If I can get it all sold within a month, we're a go but if not I guess I'll just whick the whipple all the way up. 1 question, do you guys use oil/arp moly/ or nothing on the bottom of the arp main studs that thread into the block ? directions don't say but the threads squeak while going in so it's kind of nervewracking
 

05stroker

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starting to fit bearings tonight. hoping to sell the whipple and other stuff to go ahead with the twin turbo's. If I can get it all sold within a month, we're a go but if not I guess I'll just whick the whipple all the way up. 1 question, do you guys use oil/arp moly/ or nothing on the bottom of the arp main studs that thread into the block ? directions don't say but the threads squeak while going in so it's kind of nervewracking
I use anti seize in the block and moly lube when torqueing the heads.
 

sportinawoody

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I'm just starting on the mains, may take a week or so to get tto the heads with my schedule. what'd you use on the bottom of the main studs ?
 

sportinawoody

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Sorry I was boring you with facts.
that 9.3:1 stroker on 18 lbs. making 875 rwhp on 93 pump gas kinda throughs your big comp, little boost out the window now i guess. never gonna do that on 93 and 11:1. I'm curious as to whether your opinion on this has changed now :chainsaw:and by the way, this is the kit I'm trying to replace the whipple with
 

retfr8flyr

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Bobby I think anything over 600hp for the street is pretty much useless. Even with my M/T DR's I can break them loose about anytime I want with my 600hp street tune. Now for the track it's a different story. OP I hope you can get your Whipple sold, that S&H kit looks killer.


Earl
 

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