sportinawoody is sportinablown motor is sportin a new build thread

JeremyH

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actually I'm really really interested in your twin setup Jeremy. How is the longevity on the oiless turbo's?

Better than oil fed turbos. They have no seals to leak and then need replacing, no oil to carbonize and coke up in the bearing housing from heat. The center sections are aluminum so run cooler, and the watercooling via waterjackets is leaps and bounds better than oil cooling only. Comp states you can extend the ceramic bearing life indefinetly by having them greased at proper intervals. For a street car they reccommend 3 years 36k miles to have it cleaned, inspected and regreased. Price to have them serviced is $200-300 which is very affordable. In 2 years I had to have my oil fed turbos serviced 3 times for oil seals. I will never run an oil fed turbo again.
 

sportinawoody

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I've had to pick a few brains and do a whole lot of reading but at the end of the day I feel comfortable with my choices. this is a whole different world from building alcohol ingested 800Hp outlaw motors for a previous boss/friend
 

Weou09

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nah I appreciate the input from those who can conversate without throwing rocks like some of the assholes on this board. but after talking with the owner of l&m ( of which who built your gracious moderator stkjock's motor )and my tuner Aaron of Trudynosports , It was chosen to go with this CR for what the car will mostly see. I'm only looking at around 650 for now with the whipple on pump but there are future plans that I am preparing for also when Ive got another 5-7k to burn.

I wasn't "throwing rocks". You have been here long enough to know that if some one calls an idea "retarded" most of the time it is...
Actually I ran 17 with a whipple on 92 but the motor had 9.4 compression.

I've also run higher boost with 11:1 on 92 but really dropped the spark advance to 15 degrees for safety.

If his plan is to run ethanol free gas then lower compression is a good idea. The 10% of ethanol in e10 does cool the combustion chamber and help prevent detonation imo. Also imo e10 is why we can run higher compression with boost. Ethanol free gas will have mbte for an oxidizer. MTBE isn't going to help with detonation.

I made that same claim earlier in the thread and it went by the way side like most sound advice. OP e10 may be a bad thing for your lawn mower but it isn't for you car.

He also runs e85, and ran lower timing on his gas tune, making it plenty safe. What makes one guys setup applicable to everyone else?

The op is looking to make big power on pump gas and do so safely.

There are lots of reasons, higher compression is not the only way to make more power, there are pros and cons to everything, ptv clearance, cylinder temps and pressure, increased risk of detonation would be a few.

You want to get a little power back? Then run another lb of boost or a degree or two of timing. More than one way to skin a cat.

I planned to push 800rwhp on pump 93 with my setup. That plan on my build included a 9.1:1 compression motor. Something, I wouldnt try on a higher compresion build and pump gas.

Refer back to mine and Bruce's post. He made just as much power with just as much boost as the OP is trying to make on 92! I'll give you the same advice 9.1:1 is lower than you should go. I have said this many times, along with a few other people as well, MORE COMPRESSION AND LESS BOOST will make a happier better running motor than MORE BOOST AND LESS COMPRESSION. It will be more efficient, make more power out of boost and have a better curve and in your case it will indeed spool faster...
 
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BruceH

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Why are you shitting all over his build thread? Offering advice is one thing but the man has a plan and has reasons for what he is doing. It's not like he's just throwing stuff together. He has also asked you to stop offering advice so maybe you can just sit back and watch the build come together?






I wasn't "throwing rocks". You have been here long enough to know that if some one calls an idea "retarded" most of the time it is...


I made that same claim earlier in the thread and it went by the way side like most sound advice. OP e10 may be a bad thing for your lawn mower but it isn't for you car.



Refer back to mine and Bruce's post. He made just as much power with just as much boost as the OP is trying to make on 92! I'll give you the same advice 9.1:1 is lower than you should go. I have said this many times, along with a few other people as well, MORE COMPRESSION AND LESS BOOST will make a happier better running motor than MORE BOOST AND LESS COMPRESSION. It will be more efficient, make more power out of boost and have a better curve and in your case it will indeed spool faster...
 

sportinawoody

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it isn't about total power for me at this point, that's why I'm keeping the baby cams for driveability. With the experience my tuner and L&m engines has , I feel very comfortable with my choices so we will see how it pans out.
 

toorbeenee

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OP, great build cant wait to see your car ready.

S&H are great vendors. i deal with Jeremy all the time he is a great guy. And the same with Bruce, he helps all the time
 

jodadejss06gt

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Op we've all had different issues with turbo cars. Some guys go oil fed and some go with the oil/water or just the water. I've had my 67 on the car for over 40k miles no bearing issue whatsoever. I did have an exhaust housing crack at the v-band just due to alignment.

I promote my long bearing life to 3 hours worth of driving and a few heat cycles before I even got into boost(had to drive to the tuner on a startup tune). I still had the stock oil pump too.

Jeremy hasn't had the same experience with his upgraded pump(I'm pretty sure his is a higher flowing one). As he mentioned hes had a few oil seals go out over the years.

Earl had issues with his water cooled turbos too.

I think it all comes down to how you have it setup. I like the idea of the water I just don't want to have to run more lines. Too lazy.
 

JeremyH

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Most oem setups run water and oil cooled turbos and they are engineered to have the desired 30psi oil feed. (what a floating sleeve journal bearing cartridge was designed for). The engine itself is engineered to running with at turbo as well, so things like max boost level, location, drain, crankcase pressure and evacuation etc are all built around the turbo. Most are internaly wastegated as well, and are not designed for high heat and fast spool like aftermarket turbo kits.
 

Department Of Boost

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9.1 will be fine.

I'm running 9.25 and I think I have the most powerful pump gas 3v on the planet (or one of them). It seems to be working out just fine.:highfive:
 

05stroker

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9.1 will be fine.

I'm running 9.25 and I think I have the most powerful pump gas 3v on the planet (or one of them). It seems to be working out just fine.:highfive:

Haha, I ran a 9.38 on 9.01:1 CR on E85. I buy it at the pump.
 

Department Of Boost

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what would that power be

776 at full operating temp on 93. Same tune I drive around with:)

Still a 4.6

Itty bitty 127350 cams

Stage 1 heads

1 5/8 headers/2.5" collectors/2.5" X-pipe/3" "tails" and mufflers (dumped at axle)

The dyno I use is a heartbreaker too

You should be able to do better with turbo's:thumb2:
 
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