Boss 302 Intake has arrived. Fitment and dyno coming!!!!

wbt

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Do any of you see a point of running the Boss intake if you are not launching around 6K?

Nope....you will run a slower ET. There is a fine line to getting a good launch and bogging the car with the Boss. 6K launches are needed.

Another thing to consider is replacing the stock clutch, drive shaft, rear girdle and diff. cover in order to prevent drive-line breakage.

6K launch on stickies with hook without the supporting mods will = something breaking sooner than later.

BTW - 3.73 gear or better on a M6 car is required. I would recommend nothing less than a 4.10 on the auto.
 
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wbt

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i beg to differ, you typically want to shift 200-300 past when your power starts dropping off

that is why i am trying to keep a 7700 or so shift point

plus it brings you in at a higher rpm and better power range on the shift

You cannot make a blanket statement like that for both N/A and power adder cars running the stock intake......what may apply to one will not for the other. You are also running ported heads and cams. Invalidates your statement more. More poor advice.

When I was using the stock intake, 6,800 was a good shift point for N/A. The stock intake starts to trail off past 6,500 N/A with stock heads/cams on a bolt on car.

The Boss intake shift point for me is ~7,700. The car continues to hold that power all the way to 7,800+. JJ's results are exactly the same as mine as-well-as many other's with similar mods.

My last time out was on pump gas....next time out will be e85 with better traction. Corrected time was 11.29@121 with a 1.68 60'. Uncorrected was 11.63@118. DA was 2,500' above SL.
 
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wbt

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That graph doesn't really show the power as falling off. It looks like its carrying it to me.


That is from a blown car with ported heads and cams......invalidates the comparison to a N/A car.

N/A the stock intake starts to trail off past 6,500.
 

beefcake

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if that's correct and what beefcake said was incorrect (since his car has a blower) then why did my car pick up mph when i shifted over 7k?
my car has a CAI and a Xpipe and thats it.

you have to look at your dyno graph, and see where you are making power.

4v motors liked to be revved. The other thing is if power isn't dropping off that much it can still be beneficial to bring you in closer to peak torque.

A dyno to see your power band will always help.

More than likely you are shifting in a better torque position and higher in your horsepower band.
 

KungFuHamster

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To many variables.
Could be temp, 60ft, how fast or slow the actual shift was...
Were the ET's consistant?
i admit i am not a very consistent driver, ET-wise. however, my mph was consistent...108-109. ~100 degree temps. i was grannyshifting.

you have to look at your dyno graph, and see where you are making power.

4v motors liked to be revved. The other thing is if power isn't dropping off that much it can still be beneficial to bring you in closer to peak torque.

A dyno to see your power band will always help.

More than likely you are shifting in a better torque position and higher in your horsepower band.
agreed.

What gear is in your car? The RPM drop between shifts may be impacting that number.
ive got 3.73s.
 

wbt

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i admit i am not a very consistent driver, ET-wise. however, my mph was consistent...108-109. ~100 degree temps. i was grannyshifting.

agreed.

ive got 3.73s.

6,800 should work fine as a shift point then.

Question then becomes what was the ET/MPH for each run by carying shift points?

Quicker ET with no changes to the car may result in less MPH. Slower ET may show a MPH increase. Deep staging will impact both numbers as well.

There are many variables that could account for the difference between runs vs. just changing a shift point.
 

Wnt2gofst

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When I was using the stock intake, 6,800 was a good shift point for N/A. The stock intake starts to trail off past 6,500 N/A with stock heads/cams on a bolt on car.

The Boss intake shift point for me is ~7,700. The car continues to hold that power all the way to 7,800+. JJ's results are exactly the same as mine as-well-as many other's with similar mods.
My car pulls power all the way out to 7800. Bolt ons with Boss.

Last time at the track ran the car shifting at 7300 and also 7800. I ran about .1-.2 better when shifting at 7800. best run was a 11.80@117 w/ 1.58 60ft. DA of 2800ish abovee SL.
 

Kingcrabb

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My car pulls power all the way out to 7800. Bolt ons with Boss.

Last time at the track ran the car shifting at 7300 and also 7800. I ran about .1-.2 better when shifting at 7800. best run was a 11.80@117 w/ 1.58 60ft. DA of 2800ish abovee SL.

Boss intake = Win.
Cant wait to try mine out with the slicks.
 

KonaGT

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Are any of you guys actually datalogging these passes or just assuming you are shifting at a certain RPM?
 

wbt

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Are any of you guys actually datalogging these passes or just assuming you are shifting at a certain RPM?

We datalog when street tuning. I know my tach is 200rpm off meaning if I shift at 7,500, it is really 7,700.

Shift light will be one of my next mods after I am finished with the e85 setup.
 

KonaGT

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Ya that is the point I was trying to prove. Just because you think you are shifting at a certain RPM doesn't mean its actually happening. For the average Joe at the track there is just way too much going on and adrenaline pumping to be able to stare at the factory tach.
 

wbt

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Ya that is the point I was trying to prove. Just because you think you are shifting at a certain RPM doesn't mean its actually happening. For the average Joe at the track there is just way too much going on and adrenaline pumping to be able to stare at the factory tach.

Get a shift light, set it to 6,800 and call it a day. :beerchug2:
 

Wnt2gofst

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Ya that is the point I was trying to prove. Just because you think you are shifting at a certain RPM doesn't mean its actually happening. For the average Joe at the track there is just way too much going on and adrenaline pumping to be able to stare at the factory tach.
I already have a shift light.
 

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