Boss 302S A Arms on a 2006 GT

[Powered by Ford]

They look legit but man the end of the arm just looks like it was chopped off with a mount for the balljoints welded on.

They seem to have been without failure from what I've seen however.

That's just a factory 10+ front control arm with different bushings and ball joints (the weld and all is factory).

Nice idea so you can just bolt it in, but why is it called SLA?

SLA means Short Long Arms which the s197 does not have its a McPherson...

 

[Scruffy]

That's just a factory 10+ front control arm with different bushings and ball joints (the weld and all is factory).

Nice idea so you can just bolt it in, but why is it called SLA?

SLA means Short Long Arms which the s197 does not have its a McPherson...

I'm tempted to grab a pair for my 07 GT500 with the smaller ball joint setup. Would make for a nice upgrade.

How does urethane work on the fronts for the S197? I've been using Delrin with great results on my SN95 and always hear complaints about urethane for control arms.

 

[zquez]

I'm tempted to grab a pair for my 07 GT500 with the smaller ball joint setup. Would make for a nice upgrade.

How does urethane work on the fronts for the S197? I've been using Delrin with great results on my SN95 and always hear complaints about urethane for control arms.

Its been great so far. Turn in is a LOT sharper and the steering feel and feedback is great. No added nvh either which perfect for a dual purpose track toy like mine.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[Darkside323]

What up everyone. So I'm going through a little thought processing. Check it out:

So I have an 07 GT 500 and I'm about to do some major front end work.
1. My original plan was to outfit a pair of 08 GT 500 front LCA's with Whiteline bushings and Steeda Balljoints. But apparently it's a pain in the butt to take out the bushings.

2. As of late I'm about to purchase some Kenny Brown front LCA's from a friend but the balljoint is the 19mm (thicker than mine). Looks like I'm gonna have to drill out my stock spindle to make them fit.

Which upgrade would give me the best results? Any experience with these mentioned mods?
Should I drill out my stock spindle (is it easy enough?) or purchase some 2013 spindles (I have a pending good deal on a couple of them? But do they actually bolt up?) Would it really make any difference?

 

[zquez]

What up everyone. So I'm going through a little thought processing. Check it out:

So I have an 07 GT 500 and I'm about to do some major front end work.
1. My original plan was to outfit a pair of 08 GT 500 front LCA's with Whiteline bushings and Steeda Balljoints. But apparently it's a pain in the butt to take out the bushings.

2. As of late I'm about to purchase some Kenny Brown front LCA's from a friend but the balljoint is the 19mm (thicker than mine). Looks like I'm gonna have to drill out my stock spindle to make them fit.

Which upgrade would give me the best results? Any experience with these mentioned mods?
Should I drill out my stock spindle (is it easy enough?) or purchase some 2013 spindles (I have a pending good deal on a couple of them? But do they actually bolt up?) Would it really make any difference?

If you look back a few pages in this thread youll see that i modified my 06 spindles which are essentially the same as yours. I took it to a shop just to make sure it was done right nut im sure you could do it yourself. I wouldnt buy new spindles, save your money.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[Darkside323]

Yes I noticed that you modified yours. So all you had to do was find a machine shop willing to do it? By the way did you ever figure out why the 302's runs the spacer between the spindle and balljoint?

 

[zquez]

Yes I noticed that you modified yours. So all you had to do was find a machine shop willing to do it? By the way did you ever figure out why the 302's runs the spacer between the spindle and balljoint?

Yep.

I did not. I contacted Mark Wilson but he hasn't gotten back to me since I sent him a pic of what I was talking about. I've been driving mine pretty hard for a few weeks now and I've been periodically inspecting everything and no problems so far without it.

 

[Darkside323]

Cool deal!!!!

 

[striker 5]

question why not bmr a arms ?

 

[zquez]

Note this thread:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90711&highlight=bmr+arms+break


Since I road race mine, the last thing I want to worry about is something breaking at the end of a long straight away that sends me into a tire wall or worse.

 

[striker 5]

I see I dont road race just car shows and been to the track once so I should be fine .

 

[zquez]

I see I dont road race just car shows and been to the track once so I should be fine .

May I ask why you would want/need the BMR A arms if you dont track it or drag race?

 

[Darkside323]

I went Kenny Brown because I got a great deal and any less weight on the front of my GT 500 is good for me. Besides I heard they kick butt!!!!

 

[Scruffy]

I'm looking at the Ford Parts dealer I use online for a 2011 GT500.

Looks like

[ 6 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / LOWER CONTROL ARM / LOWER CONTROL ARM
lower control arm Mustang; Shelby GT500; Right
Includes: Bushings And Lower Ball Joint.

$82.26

[ 6 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / LOWER CONTROL ARM / LOWER CONTROL ARM
lower control arm Mustang; Shelby GT500; Left
Includes: Bushings And Lower Ball Joint.

$82.26

[ 2 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / SUSPENSION COMPONENTS / KNUCKLE
knuckle Mustang; Right; From 8/3/09

$277.06

[ 2 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / SUSPENSION COMPONENTS / KNUCKLE
knuckle Mustang; Left; From 8/3/09

$251.87



Looks like I can get both arms + spindles for under $700 ready to bolt on. Saves me trying to find a proper machine shop, I didn't have much luck last time plus I'd rather get the factory correct pieces.

Should just able to swap the hubs and brake gear over and be good to go? Are the taller Steeda balljoints really necessary?

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Looks like I can get both arms + spindles for under $700 ready to bolt on. Saves me trying to find a proper machine shop, I didn't have much luck last time plus I'd rather get the factory correct pieces.

Should just able to swap the hubs and brake gear over and be good to go? Are the taller Steeda balljoints really necessary?

Do a little research on "lowering and front roll center," "Bumpsteer" and "bushing deflection" and you'll have the basis to answer your own questions... FWIW, if you track the car (and have upgraded the struts and springs), the Steeda arms with the X5 ball joints and poly bushings wind up being a WHOLE lot cheaper than the factory stuff required to simply bolt it all together.

 

[Scruffy]

True. I have my SN95 dialed in with delrin bushings, forward offset arms, Kmember, front/rear bumpsteer, etc.

I was tracking this GT500 but am not going to go as hardcore with it as I have with the other car. As is it handles well for what I do with it on the track, I just figured I would upgrade to the larger ball joints and revised arms while I had it on stands and without wheels for a month or so. I know there was a TSB out for the updated parts due to front suspension clunk, but I've been good so far.

I probably will go the Steeda route, I've just tried to stay away from urethane as much as possible on anything, especially arms.

 

[zquez]

Hey guys. I just thought I would post an update on these arms and ball joints. I have seen several posts lately about the Steeda ball joints going bad in their arms. I am happy to report no issues with my Howe ball joints so far. The only thing is that the dust boots are toast already, which is unfortunate. I've ordered replacements from Watson Racing. For those of you interested in just getting the ball joints but not changing the bushings, Watson now sells them on their own.

http://shop.watsonracing.com/HOWE-EXTENDED-BALL-JOINT-BALL-JOINT-ONLY-p/wr-22409.htm

 

[ArizonaGT]

I've seen a few photos of FR500Cs and 302Rs that have the ball joint boots wrapped in heat-reflective tape, might be worth a shot.

 

[2013DIBGT]

Another option would be to use the widest strip of exhaust wrap you can find. "Poke" a hole in it for the ball joint to pass thru and let the wrap lay over the boot. Or you could go whole hog and just wrap it around the arm a few times finishing it off with a few stainless steel tie wraps.

 

[zquez]

I have some heat reflective tape left over that I can try when I replace the boots. I could probably put some on the brake cooling plate in front of the ball joint too fro good measure.