Brake pad thread for road course (yes another one)

[Mike Rousch]

I searched but could not find anything relative. The car is a 08 Shelby, Stock brakes with the exception of SS lines, 3 inch cooling ducts, DTC 70's in the front, and good fluid. The problem is after 3 good sessions i get some pretty good vibration under braking.

Is replacing rotors every track outing something I am just going to have to deal with because of the car (weight)? Or should i move back to say a dtc 60 or something different to try and save the rotors? Or keep what i have and focus more on cooling them? I know the Shelby's are not the best for this type of stuff, Just trying to get some ideas from people that have been there.

The car is 4050ish, Strait speeds are around 165-170ish at VIR. Thanks for the help!

 

[mitch]

Sounds like you may just have some "build up" on the rotors.

I have the same setup currently on my 07.
Stock calipers, DTC 70's, with cooling, motul 300.

First time out, got a pretty good vibration, though it was warped rotors, I just drove through it, and it seemed to go away after the second session.

But sorry, dont have any suggestions to fix it. But build up on the rotors is not uncommon.

 

[Mike Rousch]

The rotors do seem to have some material on them. Is this because the pad is so aggressive?

 

[kevinatfms]

Did you bed the pads into the rotors or just slap them on and go? If they arent bedded in correctly it could cause uneven pad deposits to form.

 

[jayel579]

Hawk pads tend to be very good on rotors or at least not as bad is a better way to say it. It could be that with the cooling the DTC-70s aren't getting up to temperature which will eat up the rotors. Many guys here actually went down in their pads once they installed cooling ducts. My brakes went soft on me a couple times last season at Watkins Glen last season, though not a major braking course I did have to manage mine. Once I put in cooling ducts, I didn't have to manage them as much on the same pads.

In the end I guess I am saying maybe step down in a pad aggressiveness, that might help.

 

[Apex50]

I have the same setup, same problem at VIR. The DTC's eat my rotors. I use napa or autozone cheapo rotors. Braking was fine despite the vibration. Was told I wasn't braking deep enough to heat the pads, but can't get anymore "stop" out of my BFG Rivals. I'm going to go back to mid range Hawks for my next set. I don't think it's worth the hassle, or extra cost. Maybe on slicks it would be better.

 

[Mike Rousch]

Did you bed the pads into the rotors or just slap them on and go? If they arent bedded in correctly it could cause uneven pad deposits to form.

I did not bed the first set, but the second set i did.

Hawk pads tend to be very good on rotors or at least not as bad is a better way to say it. It could be that with the cooling the DTC-70s aren't getting up to temperature which will eat up the rotors. Many guys here actually went down in their pads once they installed cooling ducts. My brakes went soft on me a couple times last season at Watkins Glen last season, though not a major braking course I did have to manage mine. Once I put in cooling ducts, I didn't have to manage them as much on the same pads.

In the end I guess I am saying maybe step down in a pad aggressiveness, that might help.

I think you are right with this, The brakes squeal pretty good until 5-6 hard laps. Once i get held up by someone though there right back to squealing again pretty quick.

I have the same setup, same problem at VIR. The DTC's eat my rotors. I use napa or autozone cheapo rotors. Braking was fine despite the vibration. Was told I wasn't braking deep enough to heat the pads, but can't get anymore "stop" out of my BFG Rivals. I'm going to go back to mid range Hawks for my next set. I don't think it's worth the hassle, or extra cost. Maybe on slicks it would be better.

Same here, I dont see how i could possibly brake any later then what I am now, and i have no intention of going away from a street tire either. I will give the 60's a try next time and see how they work!

 

[kon5t]

Mike, this is a great article that explains vibrations or "warped disk" quite well: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Sounds to me like the pads/heat are the problem, you could try running something slightly higher temperature compatible. The vibration happens because of pad to rotor transfer usually. Different pads should solve that.

 

[STEVE_POE]

I ran the 70 60 setup for a while but found I couldn't get the bias like I wanted and didn't want a pp valve.... I stepped down to a 60 f 60 r and it is much better and pad life is much better all the way around....

 

[Apex50]

Mike, this is a great article that explains vibrations or "warped disk" quite well: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Sounds to me like the pads/heat are the problem, you could try running something slightly higher temperature compatible. The vibration happens because of pad to rotor transfer usually. Different pads should solve that.

DTC-70's are the highest temp range in the Hawk lineup. Operating range temp is spec'd at 400-1600F, with 800-1200F being optimal. I've had equivalent braking performance, better rotor life and no vibration using HP+ (barely a track pad),
HT-10's/HT-14's (midrange). Of course, I'll admit, my NA car tops out at 140mph on the VIR straights. I still think dropping down in compound is the solution.

 

[Mike Rousch]

I ran the 70 60 setup for a while but found I couldn't get the bias like I wanted and didn't want a pp valve.... I stepped down to a 60 f 60 r and it is much better and pad life is much better all the way around....

DTC-70's are the highest temp range in the Hawk lineup. Operating range temp is spec'd at 400-1600F, with 800-1200F being optimal. I've had equivalent braking performance, better rotor life and no vibration using HP+ (barely a track pad),
HT-10's/HT-14's (midrange). Of course, I'll admit, my NA car tops out at 140mph on the VIR straights. I still think dropping down in compound is the solution.

I think i am going to give the 60s a shot with some new rotors and see how it goes! You going to NASA in October? I would like to check out how that Watson racing bar looks in the car if you dont mind.

 

[Apex50]

I think i am going to give the 60s a shot with some new rotors and see how it goes! You going to NASA in October? I would like to check out how that Watson racing bar looks in the car if you dont mind.

Between chump car and getting my son into quarter midget racing, my DE budget is tapped for the year! If you're ever down near Raleigh, PM me. Can't say enough good things about the Watson roll bar. It's about an hour to convert back and forth. They were a pleasure to deal with, too.

 

[Mike Rousch]

Between chump car and getting my son into quarter midget racing, my DE budget is tapped for the year! If you're ever down near Raleigh, PM me. Can't say enough good things about the Watson roll bar. It's about an hour to convert back and forth. They were a pleasure to deal with, too.

I will do that for sure! Thanks!

 

[FR500GT]

I ran the 70 60 setup for a while but found I couldn't get the bias like I wanted and didn't want a pp valve.... I stepped down to a 60 f 60 r and it is much better and pad life is much better all the way around....

Anybody have input for running the 60 f 60 r for the street?

 

[jayel579]

Anybody have input for running the 60 f 60 r for the street?

Don't

 

[2Fass240us]

Don't forget to block your ducts to bed the pads. I like to call these "sock-blockers"

 

[dontlifttoshift]

On the note of blocking the ducts. Two American Standard toilet flappers fill the Boss 302 fascia quite nicely. Ace Hardware part number 45213.

At 2 bucks a piece, they are not as cheap as crusty tube socks full of knuckle children....

 

[2Fass240us]

On the note of blocking the ducts. Two American Standard toilet flappers fill the Boss 302 fascia quite nicely. Ace Hardware part number 45213.

At 2 bucks a piece, they are not as cheap as crusty tube socks full of knuckle children....

I laughed out loud in front of my boss...thanks.

 

[2Fass240us]

Mike: I know I'm digging this up, but any updates on the 60/60 combo? That's what I run with my Wilwoods up front but I also don't make dat Shelby powa.

 

[Mike Rousch]

Mike: I know I'm digging this up, but any updates on the 60/60 combo? That's what I run with my Wilwoods up front but I also don't make dat Shelby powa.

I dont run that car to much on the track anymore, but i did find out that xp20/12 was a good combo to run. I could go a whole weekend on that set up without issue.