Finally...1.39 60' launch!

dysan

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Well, technically.....if the car goes straight as an arrow - then you don't need to adjust the ARB. I recommend setting the ARB to neutral, and adjusting preload based on the car pulling to the left, or right.

In your case - it looks as if you may need to step up to a more aggressive ARB - with shorter arms and all bearings. OR, you could replace your ARB bushings with Delrin pieces. You would have to make them, though.

That said, you can also partially eliminate the roll you have with more anit-squat and stiffer shocks settings.

As for the roll in relation to the ARB adjustment, I already posted it above. The issue is, when doing that - you are going to cause the car to steer left or right based on what you do (what side you preload)

I think you need a more aggressive ARB, or replace the bushings in it.

Good luck!

Well, I have your Extreme Anti roll bar so other than installing the Delrin bushings is there one more aggressive? I just put it in a little over a month ago and don't have the coin to get another any time soon.

I do still have my airbag in the passenger rear spring but I haven't put any air in it..would pumping that up some help then?
 

dysan

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Give a detailed list of what suspension parts you have . I'm considering doing some stuff to achieve a 1.4 with my 700 rwhp turbo car and need some input. I like the ride of the car . I don't want to compromise ride quality. Can i run stock lowers and uppers.

Well, there are a lot of variables and every car is different. First off, the type of trans will play a huge role in it...I have a 4R70W automatic with a trans brake paired to a TVS supercharger so I have instant torque yet the torque converter absorbs some of the shock that would normally be introduced from a stick car dumping the clutch.

I wouldn't want to try cutting a 1.4 60' with the stock control arms or the stock UCA mount. If you don't want to compromise ride quality you will need heavy duty Poly control arms and most likely have to go with adjustable shocks and struts so you can change how they are set on the street vs when you are at the track.

Here is my full list...

No front sway bar
Lakewood 90/10 front struts
Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks
Cobra Jet M5300Q springs (older style that don't lower the car)
UPR Pro series heavy duty LCA's with heim joint solid ends
JPC Race UCA
UPR UCA mount
Spohn polyurethane bushing on top of my rear differential
CHE LCA relocation brackets (welded in)
 

BMR Tech

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You can take several approaches.

After seeing your mod list - my recommendation is to get some nice DA rear shocks like the Viking B226 model.

I also recommend acquiring an UCA mount that has multiple mounting positions (vertically).

Increasing Anti-Squat in your car, and grabbing some stiffer shocks....I think, would work well. It would also likely alleviate some of the roll issues you have going on.

As for current - sure, I would recommend trying to air that bag up and see what it does. Only one way to find out!

Get to work!

;)
 

BMR Tech

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What hole on our ARB are you in? Closest to the front of the car, or closest to the rear?
 

dysan

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What hole on our ARB are you in? Closest to the front of the car, or closest to the rear?

Off the top of my head I don't remember but we chose the one that gave us the most ground clearance because it seems to sit rather low on my car. The hole closer to the cross-bar would be the stiffer one to use correct? As soon as my car is off the street, then I can use whichever and not worry about ground clearance.
 

BMR Tech

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I see.

Yeah, you want to use the hole closest to the rear, which is the stiffest.
 

dysan

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Let me understand..In my mind the holes furthest away from the cross-bar on your anti-roll bar would be the ones that will flex the most but they would be the ones closest to the rear axle..I would expect the holes closer to the cross bar to be the stiffest since they have less of a fulcrum point being closer to where they can pivot...

I used the picture from your site and put green lines towards the two holes and a comment on what I think is the stiffer and more flex ones...If you could let me know if I'm correct that would be great.

BMR_zps81f4ab54.jpg
 

BMR Tech

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"Closest to the rear" when I am posting while on the phone = closest to the "crossbar".

I should have said, furthest back.
 

dysan

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Ok...so I am on the same page as what you were saying

When I read "closest to the rear" I am thinking axle tubes/differential, not rear of the car :beerdrink:

Sorry to be such a pest.
 

RedMosesSC

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Seems like just last month you were taking off your hood to chase the 10's, Congrats Man!



We need to get another North East S197 Forum rental, that was a fun day.

I tried to embed, all different ways, not sure wtf...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ai4tjobe3M&list=UUVgCow04Cdb5MS7UZZ-2kwg
 

dysan

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An amazing pic. What bracket do you run?

Thanks!

I race in the Super Pro class (11.99-6.50 dials)...full electronics. Hopefully over the winter I can change my shifter to one that will work with an electric solenoid considering 90% of the cars and dragsters I run against are set up with electric/CO2 shifters.
 

lito

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Did you bought the pic already or think you are going to have a better one in a future date (I think you won't but for the good reasons, car would move more forward than up with the planned winter changes)
 

dysan

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No I haven't purchased the picture yet and I don't know if I will have a better one because I may not turn the power back up there for quite a while.

I want to set the car up one way and leave it there so I can make a good log of all the weather data and learn how it changes based on weather conditions.
 

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