Let's Build A Killer Track Car!!!

[CobraRed]

Oil coolers were all the rage over on the AC Cobra forum a few years back. Nobody was using T stats....and oil temps were getting way too low...like 160 F.

Oil being too cold is actually a very scary thing.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Oil coolers were all the rage over on the AC Cobra forum a few years back. Nobody was using T stats....and oil temps were getting way too low...like 160 F.

They weren't running 160deg F on the track.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Looks like I'll be getting an oil T stat. More money.............................

 

[CobraRed]

Re: Let's Build A Killer Track Car!!!

More money.............................

Sounds about right

 

[Boone]

Please correct (or bash) me if I'm wrong, but don't the Mishimoto oil coolers come with a diverter/sandwich plate that contains a thermostat. I have one on my car, and I was under the impression that my oil temps would not be effected until they reached 180 - 200 degrees.

I used the Coyote kit on my '05GT and modded the bracket to fit. Oil temp gauge is not in place yet, but plans are in the works. Motor is out of the car right now, so I'm going to look at the lower grill mount option before everything goes back together.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Please correct (or bash) me if I'm wrong, but don't the Mishimoto oil coolers come with a diverter/sandwich plate that contains a thermostat. I have one on my car, and I was under the impression that my oil temps would not be effected until they reached 180 - 200 degrees.

I used the Coyote kit on my '05GT and modded the bracket to fit. Oil temp gauge is not in place yet, but plans are in the works. Motor is out of the car right now, so I'm going to look at the lower grill mount option before everything goes back together.

Do you have a link to the cooler/kit?

 

[Boone]

http://www.mishimoto.com/ford-mustang-5-0l-oil-cooler-kit-11-14.html#productdescription

 

[Department Of Boost]

That plate doesn't look like it could possibly contain a T-stat.

 

[Powered by Ford]

That plate doesn't look like it could possibly contain a T-stat.

Its included in the sandwich adapter listed in the BOM for that kit.
http://www.mishimoto.com/rear-mount-thermostatic-sandwich-plate-m-22.html

 

[Department Of Boost]

Its included in the sandwich adapter listed in the BOM for that kit.
http://www.mishimoto.com/rear-mount-thermostatic-sandwich-plate-m-22.html

I R dumB.

That's actually pretty damn cool.

WTH fitting can you get for a M20x1.5 though? How would you get that turned into a 10AN?

 

[Powered by Ford]

I R dumB.

That's actually pretty damn cool.

WTH fitting can you get for a M20x1.5 though? How would you get that turned into a 10AN?

LOL you need to slow down and read. M20x1.5 is the thread for the oil filter...

1/8 NPT are the fitting sizes, see below.

I actually looks like a decent setup.

Mishimoto M22 X 1.5 Sandwich Plate with Rear-Mounted Thermostat
Model: MMOP-SPTRM22

Constructed from billet 6061 CNC-machined aluminum
Two 1/8" NPT ports for sensors, oil feeds, etc.
Built-in thermostat (185°F, 85°C)
Square O-ring design for superior sealing
M22 X 1.5 thread pitch fits numerous Ford and GM engines; see tech specs for specific details
Thermostat is interchangeable with alternate temperatures (160°F, 200°F) for additional fluid temperature regulation
Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty

 

[Department Of Boost]

LOL you need to slow down and read. M20x1.5 is the thread for the oil filter...

1/8 NPT are the fitting sizes, see below.

I actually looks like a decent setup.

Mishimoto M22 X 1.5 Sandwich Plate with Rear-Mounted Thermostat
Model: MMOP-SPTRM22

Constructed from billet 6061 CNC-machined aluminum
Two 1/8" NPT ports for sensors, oil feeds, etc.
Built-in thermostat (185°F, 85°C)
Square O-ring design for superior sealing
M22 X 1.5 thread pitch fits numerous Ford and GM engines; see tech specs for specific details
Thermostat is interchangeable with alternate temperatures (160°F, 200°F) for additional fluid temperature regulation
Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty

LOL, I stopped reading that line at 1/8NPT. The Bro-Science guy in me doesn't think you can run 1/8NPT for -10 lines.

 

[Boone]

See... even PbyF says it should work. Nothing better than advice from a guy whose motor is in a machine shop.

 

[CobraRed]

1/8NPT is the thread size for temp sensor ports. Normally plugged, and used when you thread a 1/8npt electronic sensor coming from a temp gauge into it.

The Mishi thermostatic plate uses M20 to -10AN straight thread fittings if my memory serves me correctly.

Don't buy Chinese when it comes to transporting oil outside your engine. I don't care how much they want to market their QC process. Search threads about it, people put oil on the ground.

I considered a Mishi kit until I learned I could piece together a USA made kit for about the same price or a little bit more. The Mocal plate I previously linked has the same sort of thermostat in it and had the benefit of not being Mishimoto.

Mishimoto rad's are fine, because I don't mind a small coolant leak every once an awhile - and I can just send it back for warranty again. Oil is another issue.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I was planning on going with the Canton T Stat to match my Canton filter. Still am.

 

[CobraRed]

That's a good bet, will still need an oil filter adapter plate for the line out/in fittings, however.

 

[Department Of Boost]

That's a good bet, will still need an oil filter adapter plate for the line out/in fittings, however.

Got me a friend that hooked me up with one off a BOSS302R.

 

[Pentalab]

I can make different bracing (and probably more effective) to work with the Watts no problem. I have access to a full blown real deal chassis shop that does those stupid fast drag chassis.

A fellow on the Roush forum, who has a vert and uses it for various road courses, uses the BMR boxed sub frame connectors ( they have to be welded in). The oem vert pair of braces are tossed per BMR. ( if u install a watts link, the oem vert braces have to be tossed anyway). You could also custom fabricate some additional bracing.... in addition to the BMR boxed sub frame connectors, to get around the oem vert braces. http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=191&superpro=0 You won't end up with quite the floppy mess you started with. If you want still a bit more rigidity, you can also add the BMR rear tunnel brace. http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=144&superpro=0 or with the DS safety loop as well. http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=142&superpro=0 If you look at their pix, you will see it is being used in conjunction with the above BMR boxed sub frame connectors..and also BMR watts link + BMR LCA relocate brackets. It's made from 1/4" plate. And yes, the rear tunnel brace + ds safety loop work just fine with a one piece DS, like my 3.5" AL DSS-DS..with suspension at full droop. (on a 2 post lift) + rear lowered 1.25"...and front lowered 1".

 

[Department Of Boost]

I'm pretty confident that after the cage/bar is in there won't be any chassis issues that the subframe connectors or tunnel brace will solve.

I'm going to land down bars in the trunk area right behind the rear sets (which will be replaced with some sort of delete) and then tie the rear shock towers to them. Maybe more than tow down bars.

The front down bars will go all the way to the footwell (plated tied to "frame").

The hoop will have a cross bar and a diagonal bar.

It's going to be quite a bit stiffer. I'd bet at least as much as a coupe with no bar. That is a bullshit off the cuff wild guess though.

 

[Pentalab]

I'm pretty confident that after the cage/bar is in there won't be any chassis issues that the subframe connectors or tunnel brace will solve.

I'm going to land down bars in the trunk area right behind the rear sets (which will be replaced with some sort of delete) and then tie the rear shock towers to them. Maybe more than tow down bars.

The front down bars will go all the way to the footwell (plated tied to "frame").

The hoop will have a cross bar and a diagonal bar.

It's going to be quite a bit stiffer. I'd bet at least as much as a coupe with no bar. That is a bullshit off the cuff wild guess though.

Can u tie the rear shock towers together on a vert ? A rear seat delete, X brace, plus tie the rear shock tower's together, then tie the entire mess into a cage would be the ideal ticket. Don't laff at the BMR boxed sub frame connector's. Once welded in, they add a lot of rigidity.

Of course, all this stuff is extra weight. You could cut down on some of the weight by using 4130 Chromolly. DOM would be a bit heavier than CM for similar strength.