Longblock for Sale: Forged Pistons-Forged Rods-Etc

Memphis

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To address multiple PM's- AS stated- I am not looking to part this, I am not looking to haggle, and no, just because it is on a forum does not mean I HAVE to haggle. And to reiterate, buyer arranges shipping and pays shipping. Zip code 98664. Not trying to be rude, just trying to be clear

I originally bought this from BruceH while I still had my Mustang.



What I have done since purchasing this: added a set of Red painted valve covers, added a new set of BBK tuned short length shorty headers, stage 8 locking bolts and thrown a new spring in the Brown booted COP's. Inserted a water temperature sensor into the block. Autometer analog Cobalt water temp gauge will be included. Also including a oil filter relocation kit with -8an stainless lines with a oil pressure sensor bung. Can throw in stock fuel rails and injectors.

Per Bruces build thread:

"This 285 cubic inch motor is built with a 1L series of WAP aluminum block from a 2004 Mach 1. Calculated compression is 11.27:1

It's bored .030" over and has flat top Mahle 4032 pistons with a 1cc exhaust valve relief. The pistons are side coated and hard anodized.

The connecting rods are h beam 4340 steel with arp2000 rod bolts.

Stock crankshaft. Stock cams. Stock new style heads with little use. Includes vct housings and solenoids. The valve train components are new. This includes the lifters, rockers, phasers, timing chains, tensioners, gear, trigger wheel, and guides.

Stock oil pump, pickup, windage tray, stock tty hardware, new early model oil pan with bung on the passenger side.

The short block came from my old motor. It has 25,000 miles on it and ran fantastic when it was pulled. It has seen as much as 699rwhp uncorrected. The stock heads were purchased as having a few thousand miles on them and they look very good. The surfaces were straight edge checked prior to assembly. The FRPP 3v head changing kit was used to fasten the heads.

Also included is the front cover, stock balancer, a Stewart high flow water pump, rear cover, and stock oil filter adapter.

Things that need to be mentioned:

The crankshaft snout is rethreaded with an insert. The current balancer bolt is a grade 8 7/16-14 torqued to 52 ft lbs. It has been installed with blue Loctite. I've never had an issue with it and have had a number of balancers on and off since the insert was installed.

Some of the sealing surfaces common to the block were cleaned with a power tool by the idiot I bought it from on ebay. This required decking the block. The oil pan and front cover area were also cleaned with a power tool so I've used a thin layer of rtv on these surfaces "just in case". The motor didn't leak when it was pulled and I had used rtv during the previous assembly.

Links to Build Thread:
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107323 "

Asking $2300 picked up or $2300+ SH&H. Buyer must arrange pickup and shipping- Location Vancouver WA. Willing to discuss meeting buyer within a 100 mile radius.

I don't mean to be a butt here but I HAVE NO INTEREST AT THE MOMENT OF BREAKING DOWN THE BLOCK| SEPARATING PARTS ETC| I am in No hurry to sell this and I am firm on my price. If I reach a point I am willing to negotiate on the price and or beak the longblock apart- I will post it clearly.

I will be listing a NIB Whiteline Watts link with 3 quarts of Royal Purple, a set of 4:10 Ford racing gears, stock tail lights, used Steeda Brake duct kit with modified lower grill, and other parts after I get photos.
 

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Grabber-Gt10

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Whats the block rated for right now with the current set up? Would you be willing to maybe sell it without some of the stuff, headers, intake...
 

BruceH

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Whats the block rated for right now with the current set up? Would you be willing to maybe sell it without some of the stuff, headers, intake...


Rated? The only failure test the block has had is that it held 699rwhp uncorrected.

IMO unless someone can give you test data ratings are just guesses. FWIW I used this block without issue and only sold it when I put a Big Bore motor in.

It should be safe for 600rwhp+ with a good tune, fuel, etc. Any time a motor goes over 550rwhp or so the importance of tune and fuel become even more important as anything that's off can be the end of the motor. With a turbo the wastegate quality is pretty important too. Not too many motors will survive a big boost spike.

FWIW the complete motor is less than it would cost to add rods and pistons to a current motor. Plus you have your old motor left over to sell or keep on the engine stand.
 

Memphis

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I am not interested in parting this out- Motor is still available- I am not in a hurry to sell it (it would be nice to sell) But I am not willing to sell it as a shortblock and deal with the hassle of selling heads cams etc as of yet.

Still available
 

Memphis

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bump: Still available: Still not parting out: Still not haggling: Buyer still responsible for shipping
 

fede 5.0 vert

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One question... Was this motor forced induction? I believe not but wanted to make sure
 

BruceH

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One question... Was this motor forced induction? I believe not but wanted to make sure

Yes. It was built to be na. However, a Paxton was added, taken off, na for awhile, Procharger D1 added, taken off, and na again. The motor was put together after all this. The shortblock was used in the forced induction but the heads were added after I built my current motor using the cnc heads that had been on this motor.

The most the block has seen was 19psi with the D1 which made 699rwhp.
 

w9b5155

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What is its approx hp NA?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BruceH

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What is its approx hp NA?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This block with stock heads and 127300 cams made 336rwhp on gasoline with the stock cats. E85 got it up to 347. However, the tuner (me) was just starting out and having issues with torque control. Still though, 347 out of stock heads, shorty headers, and factory cats isn't too bad.

A 4.6 is only going to make so much na unless you put a whole lot of money into it. The thing about this motor is that it's already proven that it can handle forced induction when you are ready for it and still has enough na power to keep things interesting until then.

I'd imagine that long tubes and better cams like the 127500 would be good for more power. Only one way to find out, buy it and make the mods, lol.
 

w9b5155

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Thanks for the info sir. I'm fairly new to these motors and trying to learn what I can. Doing some road racing so wanting to stay away from SC.


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99horsey

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Sorry, dumb question: isn't the compression kinda high for FI? I thought it was wise to keep compression down for FI. I can't believe no one's snapped this up yet. Seems like a smoking deal.
 

BruceH

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Sorry, dumb question: isn't the compression kinda high for FI? I thought it was wise to keep compression down for FI. I can't believe no one's snapped this up yet. Seems like a smoking deal.

It all depends on who you ask. Many members have run high compression motors with forced induction and done just fine. I ran this block with 19psi on e85.

With proper tuning high compression isn't an issue. Hire a tooner and it's not going to work out but neither will anything else he does for you. Modern engine controls make higher compression and forced induction possible.

For anyone else reading this lets ask questions via pm instead of cluttering this thread up. It's a classified ad, not general chit chat.

Robin, let me know if you want the ad cleaned up. If not then I'll leave the info so it doesn't have to be asked again.

Thanks,
Bruce
 

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