New Build in the works going from stock 4.6 to a blown stroker 5.0

whippledpony

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:thumb2:I will be starting a new build for the winter in the past year i have had some bad luck with my car, i blew a window through my block in may of this year do to hydrolocking, than i replace that motor with a stock used motor that was supposed to be good and got ripped off by mechanic who said he knew how to tune these cars and put them together, he blew my second engine, so this year alone have dumped about 7 grand in motors and labor, this was all done to a car that all it had was a whipple supercharger running 10 lbs of boost, welll now i have something new in mind and have started the build, here is what i got so far

forged shortblock consisting of
*Tecksid Aluminum Block thats sleeved all new bearings
*Forged 5.0 dished CP Pistons with 9.5:1 compression
*Manley/Saleen 5.0 Stroker 4340 Connecting Rods (h-beam)
*Eagle Forged 4340 3.750" stroked 5.0 crankshaft
*8 bolt Ford Racing Billet Steel Flywheel
*with all ARP bolts and head studs

all gonna be paired with my whipple supercharger (HO) intercooled with a duel gt500 fuel pump set up, pacesetter long tube headers, catless pacesetter h-pipe, and flowmaster axel back exhaust, with stock 331 rear end

need help on choosing the following

*What injectors to run?
*What to do with heads (who to send them to)?
*What Cams to run?
*What oil pump to run?
*how much boost to run and also how to get there?
*Who can do the best mail order tune as i dont have anyone near where i live that i can trust to tune this setup?

trying to be at about 550 whp no more than that and still be a daily driver

any input is extremely welcomed
 

weather man

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JDM on the forum did a good deal on a GT500 pump with TSS gears.

Good luck with your build!
 

cruisin

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I'd do the oil pump while you're doing your build. Even fully assembled, they aren't too much more than a new stocker. GT500 w/TSS gears should be fine.
Kind of a pain to do after.
 
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hamish

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Save some money and leave the heads as they are, just up the boost.
I have comp 127300s and they are a good street cam, lots of power down low to just over 6000rpm.
If you want to spin the motor faster get a different cams.
Its a street car, no need to go crazy.
 

cruisin

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You should be fine with a set of 60lb injectors.
As for how much boost, to get to a specific hp is going to be a little difficult for anyone to guess, so many factors, without discussing heads, cams, etc. 12-15lbs should be a good start and get you to your 550.
You probably would be fine just upgrading the valve train.
 

cruisin

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2nd post of this thread.

Although, you are probably best seeing if you can source all your remaining parts from one source and see if they can give you a break for ordering multiple items
 
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BruceH

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:thumb2:I will be starting a new build for the winter in the past year i have had some bad luck with my car, i blew a window through my block in may of this year do to hydrolocking, than i replace that motor with a stock used motor that was supposed to be good and got ripped off by mechanic who said he knew how to tune these cars and put them together, he blew my second engine, so this year alone have dumped about 7 grand in motors and labor, this was all done to a car that all it had was a whipple supercharger running 10 lbs of boost, welll now i have something new in mind and have started the build, here is what i got so far

forged shortblock consisting of
*Tecksid Aluminum Block thats sleeved all new bearings
*Forged 5.0 dished CP Pistons with 9.5:1 compression
*Manley/Saleen 5.0 Stroker 4340 Connecting Rods (h-beam)
*Eagle Forged 4340 3.750" stroked 5.0 crankshaft
*8 bolt Ford Racing Billet Steel Flywheel
*with all ARP bolts and head studs

all gonna be paired with my whipple supercharger (HO) intercooled with a duel gt500 fuel pump set up, pacesetter long tube headers, catless pacesetter h-pipe, and flowmaster axel back exhaust, with stock 331 rear end

need help on choosing the following

*What injectors to run?

These are usually around $220-$240 new and will support your power goals easily.


M-9593-G302.jpg




Hover over image to zoom
click to enlarge




FORD RACING 47 LB/HR FUEL INJECTOR SET
M-9593-G302*
Suggested Retail Price
$319.00

Sold in Units of:
Eight Pack (8)




*What to do with heads (who to send them to)?

Leave them stock. Maybe change the springs.

*What Cams to run?

Stock, 127300 or 127350. None of these cams will require limiters, are street friendly and they should work with your rear gears. The aftermarket cams can be used with 26113 springs. Those springs are more phaser friendly than the heavier ones.


*What oil pump to run?
*how much boost to run and also how to get there?

15-16 lbs should be enough. Use an Innovators West 10% overdrive balancer and 3.5" pulley. I'd switch everything over to 8 rib.

*Who can do the best mail order tune as i dont have anyone near where i live that i can trust to tune this setup?

manuel@tudyno aka lito on this forum.

trying to be at about 550 whp no more than that and still be a daily driver

any input is extremely welcomed

Answers in colored bold type. Keep in mind these are suggestions. There are many ways to get what you are looking for. I've had a whipple that made the power you are seeking. It drove like stock at 550rwhp with 127300 cams, 26113 springs, an frpp tb, 9.4:1 compression, and stock cats. The displacement was 4.6 liters.
 

whippledpony

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Thanks Bruce what part of the PNW r u from I'm from Moses Lake, Wa
 

Flapjack

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The heads need to go to Rich Groh at RGR. You can work through JPC, which is probably easier, since that's who they use for their engine/head work.

I've gone through some 3v heads... he's the only one I'd ever trust to do them right.
 

whippledpony

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Hey Bruce have you ever felt with The mustang shop out of auburn, I've herd good and bad about them as far as tuning
 

BruceH

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I think Andy is gone now, isn't he?

He comes in to tune cars about once a week. Although I did forget that TMS will only tune cars they did the work on. They will rent the dyno by the hour for anyone who wants to do their own tuning.
 

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