Shocks and struts.

CammedS197

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Ok been looking but no luck on these and after some talking and research on here I've decided to go away from the coilovers. I'm now looking at the strange 10 way adjustable shocks and struts compared to the koni non adjustable, and tokico Blues non adjustable. Car is a daily 95% of the time, back roads for some fun corner carving 4%, and go to the track about 1% I'm lowered on SR springs 1.5" with factory shocks and struts. Don't really know much about those and or should I just bite it and go with the koni yellows and bilstein is just too much for non adjustablity or are they worth it for what I do? Also should I go with a better spring option like FRPP, BMR, or eibach and I like the 1.5" drop.

Thanks guys.
 

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AST4150s
Voshlag Caster/Camber plates
Hyperco Coilover Springs, front (550lbs) and back (250lbs)
Vorshlag Rear Ride Height adjuster and S197 adapter base
Whiteline endlinks
 

Mark Aubele

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Ok been looking but no luck on these and after some talking and research on here I've decided to go away from the coilovers. I'm now looking at the strange 10 way adjustable shocks and struts compared to the koni non adjustable, and tokico Blues non adjustable. Car is a daily 95% of the time, back roads for some fun corner carving 4%, and go to the track about 1% I'm lowered on SR springs 1.5" with factory shocks and struts. Don't really know much about those and or should I just bite it and go with the koni yellows and bilstein is just too much for non adjustablity or are they worth it for what I do? Also should I go with a better spring option like FRPP, BMR, or eibach and I like the 1.5" drop.

Thanks guys.

Spend the money and go with the Bilsteins or the Koni Yellows. Every lowering spring IMO is too low for the rate so I have no recommendations there.
 

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SlowJim

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I have some Bilstein fronts I'll let go for cheap. Less than 3000 miles on them. Been using them on my daily driver/autox car and they are amazing for that purpose. Then you can buy two new rears for like $85 each
 

Speedboosted

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I have some Bilstein fronts I'll let go for cheap. Less than 3000 miles on them. Been using them on my daily driver/autox car and they are amazing for that purpose. Then you can buy two new rears for like $85 each

Interested in this if OP isn't.
 

CammedS197

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Interested in this if OP isn't.

Speedboosted you can go ahead and jump on those bilsteins. So really any set of shocks and struts will wear out faster than normal due to lowering springs. I'll do some heavy research on the koni yellows though. Thanks, seems like the popular choice.
 

DevGittinJr

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Mono vs twin tube. The Koni yellow is the better of a lesser design while the Bilstein is the low-end of a better design. Koni yellows are way overrated. The Bilsteins would be the more prudent choice here. One can adjust the dampening until the knobs fall off the Koni's and never get them to dampen (high or low speed) as well as the Bilsteins.
 

csamsh

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Speedboosted you can go ahead and jump on those bilsteins. So really any set of shocks and struts will wear out faster than normal due to lowering springs. I'll do some heavy research on the koni yellows though. Thanks, seems like the popular choice.

Nope, not necessarily true. The Bilsteins have a shortened housing and are good quality monotube dampers. For more info on why that's a good thing, read the link. I realize it's an advertisement but the tech (and customer support) are on point.

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=642
 

kcbrown

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Speedboosted you can go ahead and jump on those bilsteins. So really any set of shocks and struts will wear out faster than normal due to lowering springs. I'll do some heavy research on the koni yellows though. Thanks, seems like the popular choice.


You're lowered 1.5", which may be more than the Konis can reliably handle (anecdotal evidence suggests that they don't hold up well under those conditions). The Bilsteins (at least, the ones Vorshlag sells) are already geometrically optimized for that.

If all else were equal, the Konis might make more sense since you can tailor their rebound damping to match your spring rates. But not all else is equal here.

And I'm on Koni Sport dampers myself. I've no complaints at all about them, but I'm running them on Boss 302 springs, so they won't operate outside of their design envelope. Any lower and I expect I'd go with the Bilsteins for longevity purposes.



(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)
 

jayel579

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Mono vs twin tube. The Koni yellow is the better of a lesser design while the Bilstein is the low-end of a better design. Koni yellows are way overrated. The Bilsteins would be the more prudent choice here. One can adjust the dampening until the knobs fall off the Koni's and never get them to dampen (high or low speed) as well as the Bilsteins.

It is 2015 not the 1950s, the argument between twins versus mono is vague anymore.

Even if it had any weight these days for the 1% of the time he will spend on the track the OP will never notice the difference between the two 95% of his time on the street.

I've run both in many different cars over the years on both the street and race track, they both have their advantages and disadvantages. Pick your poison IMO.
 

SlowJim

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You're lowered 1.5", which may be more than the Konis can reliably handle (anecdotal evidence suggests that they don't hold up well under those conditions). The Bilsteins (at least, the ones Vorshlag sells) are already geometrically optimized for that.

I can vouch for this, my car is lowered 1.9" on Maximum Motorsports springs, driven daily on shitty roads and autocrossed, and the Bilsteins are holding up very well. Lots of reports of blown shocks with Konis, sometimes after as little as a few months.
 

CammedS197

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Ok thanks guys, you have all been a very big help. Guessing I'll invest into the bilsteins in a couple months. The link was a big help as well and yeah I really want the reliability and all seems to point towards the bilsteins and they handle pretty well. Don't want to drop it on the koni's then have to drop more again because they blew out.
 

kcbrown

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Ok thanks guys, you have all been a very big help. Guessing I'll invest into the bilsteins in a couple months. The link was a big help as well and yeah I really want the reliability and all seems to point towards the bilsteins and they handle pretty well. Don't want to drop it on the koni's then have to drop more again because they blew out.

Well, the Konis do have a lifetime warranty, but even so, you'd still be out the R&R labor if nothing else.

I expect the Konis would work nicely for a car that's on springs with stock ride height or close to it (1/2" drop or so). What I don't know is whether it's only the front struts that have given people problem or if the rear shocks also have a tendency to give out when installed on a car that's been lowered as much as yours has. It would be interesting to get some data (if only anecdotal) on that.

The Bilsteins also have a lifetime warranty, from what I can tell, so you'll be covered there as well. For both the Konis and the Bilsteins, the warranty seems to apply only to the original purchaser.


The Koni versus Bilstein debate seems to be almost religious in nature. Nobody seems to have put forth a real apples-to-apples comparison that shows one to be clearly superior to the other under controlled conditions. It would be really interesting if two S197 Mustangs with identical springs and suspension, with the only difference between them being the dampers (the Konis would have to be tuned in rebound to the springs, of course), were to be lapped by the same unbiased pro-level driver on the same track on the same day, and the results compared.
 

CammedS197

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What's the main difference between the b12 and b6 bilsteins? Are they the same size housing like the ones that goes half has that are slightly shorter than stock?
 

csamsh

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The Koni versus Bilstein debate seems to be almost religious in nature. Nobody seems to have put forth a real apples-to-apples comparison that shows one to be clearly superior to the other under controlled conditions. It would be really interesting if two S197 Mustangs with identical springs and suspension, with the only difference between them being the dampers (the Konis would have to be tuned in rebound to the springs, of course), were to be lapped by the same unbiased pro-level driver on the same track on the same day, and the results compared.

Performance really isn't the problem. It's durability,and quality. You can't test either of those in a day on a track.

If you have an application and budget for which Koni is the fit, great. If you have an application outside of what the konis are designed for, don't get konis.

In my opinion, the only application for konis is budget-build street class autocross. For literally any other application I want proper spring rates and lowering.

Yes I know you personally have some strange ideas about modding a car.
 

Norm Peterson

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In my opinion, the only application for konis is budget-build street class autocross.
There's probably room to include a true dual-purpose street-driven car that sees HPDE track time (as opposed to time trialing) here. Certainly a mild street-only build (that operates within suspension bump travel limits) fits.


For literally any other application I want proper spring rates and lowering.
So let's take lowering off the table. Never mind why, though just off the top of my head I can think of at least four reasons why you might not want to do this but only one reason why you might actually have to (that's pretty much irrelevant as long as you're running on street tires).

Now what?


Norm
 

kcbrown

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Performance really isn't the problem. It's durability,and quality. You can't test either of those in a day on a track.

If you have an application and budget for which Koni is the fit, great. If you have an application outside of what the konis are designed for, don't get konis.

In my opinion, the only application for konis is budget-build street class autocross. For literally any other application I want proper spring rates and lowering.

Of course, to get those spring rates, you have to go to coilovers, which eliminate both the Konis and the Bilsteins from the equation.


Yes I know you personally have some strange ideas about modding a car.
More "limited" than "strange", perhaps. Though "strange" probably applies, too. :biggrin:

I think the main difference is that, firstly, I'm not driving competitively, whilst most of you guys are; and secondly, my car is a street car first and foremost in an area that is rather hard on lowered cars. I have hard requirements that most people do not, and lack some requirements that most here have. Competitive driving means you want to get every last ounce of performance out of the car regardless of the compromises required. Noncompetitive driving is about fun and learning. And while you can surely get as much if not more fun and learning from a car with a good set of coilovers, a truly good set of coilovers (AST, MCS, JRI, etc.) will cost you as much as 20 track days worth of seat time. I think you'll have a hard time arguing with a straight face that the coilovers are a substitute for that kind of experience.

And finally, Terry says:

So many folks go down the same route where they do this:

1. Buy lowering springs + twin tubes. Looks bitchin, rides like ass, blows out the struts in 3 months.
2. Upgrade to cheap coilovers. Sits even lower, rides even worse.
3. Then upgrade to GOOD coilovers. Ahh.... now they did it right, and lap times drop. Proper suspension travel, real monotubes, with quality components front to back.

This is literally how 90% of Mustang folks do it - a multi-year journey of pain and spending before they find something good. And what do they always tell us?

"I wish I just would have bought these coilovers from you first!"

What he says above is undoubtedly true. But it ignores something that some might regard as critical. The people he talks about could not know they made the right choice without going through the journey. You can't properly appreciate the properties of a good coilover system unless you have something to compare it with. And while the stock suspension is always there to be compared with, there's no way to know that the coilovers are the right answer without experimenting with other options first.

If you never experience the ways a suspension can be wrong, never learn what a suboptimal suspension feels like, how can you possibly truly appreciate what a properly set up suspension does for you? If you start off with something optimal, how can you learn about the various compromises and what they truly imply, particularly if you haven't the seat time to inform you? And if you put coilovers on the car before accumulating significant seat time, how can you learn about the shortcomings you've overcome with the setup? It took quite a few track days before I finally felt the delay in taking a set inherent in the stock suspension, because my control inputs were so slow and deliberate on the track that the car was able to keep up -- except for that one time. If I had gone straight to coilovers before my first track session, that is something I never would have felt at all, and I never would have had the learning experience that comes with it.

That's not to say that I'm encouraging people to go down the longer and more expensive experimental path that Terry talks about in the above. Whether that is the better path to follow or not really depends on what one is after. No, my point is that the path he talks about does have its upsides, and imparts wisdom that otherwise wouldn't be imparted.


All of these options (Konis, Bilsteins, the various coilovers, etc.) have their place. Not everyone is in a position to drop $3k on a set of truly good coilovers and associated hardware, and not everyone needs to eke out the most performance from their suspension that they can. For the price, as long as you stay within their design limitations, the Konis seem to be at least decent. The same is surely true of the Bilsteins as well. Both imply the compromise of less-than-optimal-for-the-track spring rates. Regardless, you can get a bunch of seat time for the price difference between those and coilovers, and while you may well be spending more in the long run (that depends on whether or not you really do wind up going with coilovers in the end), the journey may well be richer in the process.

Everything depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
 

csamsh

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There's probably room to include a true dual-purpose street-driven car that sees HPDE track time (as opposed to time trialing) here. Certainly a mild street-only build (that operates within suspension bump travel limits) fits.


So let's take lowering off the table. Never mind why, though just off the top of my head I can think of at least four reasons why you might not want to do this but only one reason why you might actually have to (that's pretty much irrelevant as long as you're running on street tires).

Now what?


Norm

I'm not sure. I have zero interest in the car you describe. If I did want a car like that, it would not be an S197.
 

Norm Peterson

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Actually, the S197 is good enough at a wide enough variety of uses, with enough track-oriented improvement available that doesn't wipe out its streetability, to be a pretty good choice. And to stay on point, having damper adjustability only improves things all around (ignoring any preferences that I might have, there have been unsolicited comments supporting both the firmer damping at the track and softer for on the street)

Sure, Bilsteins with at least rebound adjustability would likely be at least as good as the Koni yellows (and would hopefully work with stock or at least stockish ride heights), but I bet they'd come in at the next higher price point where people would be much more likely to be considering coilovers as the alternative.



FWIW, I have less than zero interest in ever owning (register, insure, inspect, and find an off-street place to park them on) a truck and trailer to support a track-only car (that I'd still have to register, insure, inspect, and park anyway).


Norm
 
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