Sorry for the delay.
We are looking at releasing the front and rear bar on 08/19.
The Watts link, we are aiming for 11/11
What is the purpose of the ladder bar looking deal for the sway bar hangers? Is that just a design thing to make them look really impressive? Not trying to sound critical, but it looks a bit excessive for the amount of load at that attachment point.
Having a super stiff sway bar prevents the car from torquing to the right (unloads left front plants right rear hard)so excuse the n00b, but earlier in the thread I saw something about "swaybar for drag racers"
how exactly is a big rear swaybar helpful in a drag car? especially a live axle drag car?
not trolling or anything... genuinely looking to get schooled on the subject...
A live axle car (with the ring gear to the left of the pinion) always tries to plant the left rear tire and unload the right rear - this is due to the directions of the forces at the ring gear (down) and its upward opposite force on the pinion.so excuse the n00b, but earlier in the thread I saw something about "swaybar for drag racers"
how exactly is a big rear swaybar helpful in a drag car? especially a live axle drag car?
The brackets pictured, are NOT final production pieces. They are simply test pieces.
We would never, ever ever make a part so blatantly incompatible with another part we make. I should have clarified a little more in the first post.
The only reason I would see, that they wouldn't be a direct fit for the FRPP LCA Brackets, is because FRPP's pieces don't extend up to the damper weight bolt hole. The Sway Bars will fit nicely with all of the LCA Brackets that utilize the damper bolt hole like ours/BMR, WL, UMI, etc.
The people who have CHE, Steeda, FRPP, etc - will need to add some washers to get the mating surfaces right.
Kelly, is the statement in bold still applicable to the final product that is about to hit the market? I have the CHE relos, and I am very seriously thinking about jumping on a set of the BMR sways. Just want to know if I am going to run into any part compatibility issues.
What about the $89 relo brackets that you mentioned ealier in the thread?
Cool to see some of the aftermarket guys coming up with new stuff instead of ripping each other off
The $89 LCA you are speaking about, yes - they have been available for about 2-3 months now.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index....icleid=1&maincatid=21&catid=70&productid=1280
And yes, if you have a set of LCA Brackets that do not extend the inside mount up to the damper weight hole, you WILL need to shim our Sway Bar mounts to your liking. We DO provide a spacer with the kit, and you may not even need to do much "thinking" what so ever.
If someone would be kind enough to send me an old LCA bracket, from another company....I could work out the details and post up.
Having a super stiff sway bar prevents the car from torquing to the right (unloads left front plants right rear hard)
By having it stiff you get even weight transfer and the car will leave straighter
BMR and others already make an extreme anti roll bar for this purpose. This will be better for me as I can stiffen when going to the track lessen when not
A live axle car (with the ring gear to the left of the pinion) always tries to plant the left rear tire and unload the right rear - this is due to the directions of the forces at the ring gear (down) and its upward opposite force on the pinion.
Meanwhile at the other end of the car the left front is trying to rise and torque the car over. This, and the R&P forces balance each other out to some extent through the rear suspension, specifically through the rear suspension's share of the car's roll stiffness.
A rear antiroll bar takes this chassis roll and uses it to "re-plant" the right rear (this probably undoes some of the initial LR tire planting). The stiffer the rear bar, the more effective at equalizing tire traction it is, and the visible amount of roll as seen from straight behind is a fair indication (less roll seen is a good thing here).
Eliminating the front bar throws even more of the car's roll stiffness to the rear. Having a big percentage of the total roll stiffness at the rear is generally a good thing at the dragstrip, although generally not so good elsewhere.
There are at least two benefits. Equalizing the RR and LR tire loads maximizes total traction (a good thing in and of itself), and which also helps make for straighter launches (because the LR isn't pushing the car harder than the RR). The reduced roll reduces axle roll steer, which also has launch straightness implications.
An independently sprung car cannot benefit nearly as much from a rear antiroll bar . . . mostly because the ring and pinion forces are resolved directly back to the chassis without having to go through the rear suspension. Any help you get would involve rear cradle to chassis bushing compliances and relative movements between those items.
Norm
^ That said, we did drop the price on August 1st down to $119.95.
That is a pretty good deal, if you ask me.