TaylorGT's AutoX Progress Thread

[SlowJim]

I intend for these tires to be mainly DD duty, in doing this i'm hopefully able to pick up a set of Forgestar 18x10 or 18x11s and put a true 200TW tire on. Something like an RS3, NTO1, etc. Moving from the 20s staggered setup to the 19" square affords me the opportunity to rotate this setup. If the funds never come for the Forgestars and I use it for other things (brakes, suspension, etc) then I will pick up a competition tire for these wheels in the future and it will still be a relatively competative setup.

Not to say these tires won't see the autocross course occasionally, I need my fix, but I won't be worried about being competative on these tires.

Fair enough. You may proceed with your tire purchase

 

[Pentalab]

Brakes, brakes, and more brakes.

So I'm tossing around the idea of just "building" the stock brakes as well as fabricating my own cooling duct system. I notice that Vorshlag/Blowfish both have brake rotor back plates available for Brembo brakes. Any chance these would fit the base GT 13.2" brakes. I realize that location of the cooling duct relative to the rotor may be a bit off but would it be enough to justify trying to fabricate my own for the stock rotors.

Other than that, plan on doing the standard. Hawk pads, Motul Racing fluid, and maybe some new rotors.

Brake rotor back plates / dust shields equipped for cooling ducts for 14" brakes should easily work with your oem 13.2" rotors. All you end up with is a .4" extra radius on the dust shield vs oem rotor.

I use CDC 14" ducted dust shields on my 2010 oem sized 12.2" rotor's. Works great. The angled tube that is welded to the dust shield is very close to the center assy....so your rotor diam is a moot point..as long as it's 14"..or less. Temp block off the new ducts at the front of the car when bedding any new pads in...or god forbid, driving down some dirty-dusty road. If you later decide to swap to 14" rotors, then your 14" ducted dust shields are good to go.

 

[TaylorGT]

Fair enough. You may proceed with your tire purchase

Brake rotor back plates / dust shields equipped for cooling ducts for 14" brakes should easily work with your oem 13.2" rotors. All you end up with is a .4" extra radius on the dust shield vs oem rotor.

I use CDC 14" ducted dust shields on my 2010 oem sized 12.2" rotor's. Works great. The angled tube that is welded to the dust shield is very close to the center assy....so your rotor diam is a moot point..as long as it's 14"..or less. Temp block off the new ducts at the front of the car when bedding any new pads in...or god forbid, driving down some dirty-dusty road. If you later decide to swap to 14" rotors, then your 14" ducted dust shields are good to go.

This is the exact info I've been searching everywhere for, this just moved up on the priority list then.

 

[TaylorGT]

Picked up a set of wheels for this next season. 19x10 square Forgestar CF10 +39 in Brilliant Silver.

 

[SlowJim]

 

[TaylorGT]

Excellent GIF comment skills. I'm going to have to steal this one ha

 

[TaylorGT]

Well...I couldn't pass up a Cyber Monday deal on a adjustable front sway bar from the same company who produced my coilovers.

How would I go about dialing this thing in? Should I just install it full stiff and use my strut rebound adjustment to tune it or would you install it neutral?

 

[CobraRed]

Yeah, I saw that on sale. AM?

You have 2 holes of adjustment?

I would recommend backing off the front dampers a few clicks then putting the sway on the stiffer setting and seeing how it is. On most cars you should start on the lower of the two, but these cars tend to like a lot of front sway.

I use 3/5 on BMR's monster bar on the street and am considering upping it to 4/5 at the track because I want to increase the rear damper settings 2-3 clicks.
Maybe I'll try one before the other.

Make sure once you torque the bushings down you can still move the bar up and down by hand. Setting the endlink length while the car is on the ground and weight in the driver's seat so that it moves in and out of the sway bar hole without effort is always a plus as well.

 

[TaylorGT]

Yeah, I saw that on sale. AM?

You have 2 holes of adjustment?

I would recommend backing off the front dampers a few clicks then putting the sway on the stiffer setting and seeing how it is. On most cars you should start on the lower of the two, but these cars tend to like a lot of front sway.

I use 3/5 on BMR's monster bar on the street and am considering upping it to 4/5 at the track because I want to increase the rear damper settings 2-3 clicks.
Maybe I'll try one before the other.

Make sure once you torque the bushings down you can still move the bar up and down by hand. Setting the endlink length while the car is on the ground and weight in the driver's seat so that it moves in and out of the sway bar hole without effort is always a plus as well.

Thanks, the ST ones have just two holes. So i'm assuming the forward most hole is stiff?

I don't have my whiteline adjustable end-links on yet. I'm thinking about doing them at the same time. If I remember correctly the install for the end links is to basically install but leave the adjustment nuts loose. Sit the car on the ground and reach in and spin the adjustment sleeve until I find the neutral point them tighten up the nuts.

 

[CobraRed]

Thanks, the ST ones have just two holes. So i'm assuming the forward most hole is stiff?

I don't have my whiteline adjustable end-links on yet. I'm thinking about doing them at the same time. If I remember correctly the install for the end links is to basically install but leave the adjustment nuts loose. Sit the car on the ground and reach in and spin the adjustment sleeve until I find the neutral point them tighten up the nuts.

Yup yup

 

[drq2q]

Wow, great thread! I just happen to have ST-XTAs, Strano adj. front/rear bars, BMR LCAs and Relo brackets, and a BMR Watts all sitting in my garage waiting for install. Reading all this is going to save me a lot of trial and error. Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[TaylorGT]

I've been contemplating swapping out the progressive springs in rear for a linear setup.

I've seen suggestions online from guys running some GC setups that the springs that came with the coilover kit were too tall. This particular guy went with an 8" x 2.5"ID 225lb spring with a 3" helper for times when he gets his suspension in full droop. I have a couple of questions here:

1) He states that 9" would be the best size to achieve the ride height he wants while retaining all the adjust-ability. Would I be able to go with an 8" and be ok for daily driving and autocross our would I be running the risk of full droop during any of that action.

2) If I go with Hypercoil the only good option I have for an 8" spring is 325lbs which seems like a lot for the rear on a daily driven car. Would sticking with a 225lb spring be the best option?

 

[csamsh]

For these rates in the rear? I'd go 8" and a set of these:

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=700

 

[Mark Aubele]

Fwiw I have 8" rears 250lb and with the adjusters as far up as I will comfortably go, I am lowered about 1.75" out back. With a 9" 300lb spring I was as low as I could go and was lowered 1.25".

 

[CobraRed]

Fwiw I have 8" rears 250lb and with the adjusters as far up as I will comfortably go, I am lowered about 1.75" out back. With a 9" 300lb spring I was as low as I could go and was lowered 1.25".

Geez, seems like there would be a nice middle ground somewhere.

These spring locators seem pretty thick, would that sort of prop up a 8" spring?
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=700


I'm near the top of my XTA coilovers/perches as well and am around 1.75" drop but the perches are resting right on the axle, and same as Taylor am thinking about going with a linear spring.

But correct me if i'm wrong Taylor, a standard 2.5" spring wouldn't work on our perches and we'd need new ones like linked above.

 

[CobraRed]

2) If I go with Hypercoil the only good option I have for an 8" spring is 325lbs which seems like a lot for the rear on a daily driven car. Would sticking with a 225lb spring be the best option?

There's 250, 275lb options, no?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hyperco-Coil-Over-Racing-Springs-2-1-2-ID-8-Inch,396.html

 

[TaylorGT]

There's 250, 275lb options, no?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hyperco-Coil-Over-Racing-Springs-2-1-2-ID-8-Inch,396.html

I was looking at eibach springs mostly, as the guy I was talking to was replacing the springs on his Ground Control kit. Since I posted this I've been looking at the Hyperco springs from other sites and have finally found those other rates.

I'm still undecided.

 

[TaylorGT]

For these rates in the rear? I'd go 8" and a set of these:

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_179&products_id=700

Would a helper spring be required then? I already have essentially the same ride height adjuster from ST Suspensions (came with the C/O kit)

 

[CobraRed]

Would a helper spring be required then? I already have essentially the same ride height adjuster from ST Suspensions (came with the C/O kit)

I have the same height adjuster too, just wondering if it works with aftermarket 2.5" coils.

 

[TaylorGT]

I have the same height adjuster too, just wondering if it works with aftermarket 2.5" coils.

I'll be pulling my rear suspension apart hopefully this weekend to measure some things. I'll let you know.