Thoughts on Maximum Motorsports 2011+ Road & Track Box

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Hello,

I'm wondering what the general consensus is from the S197 community concerning 2011+ Maximum Motorsports suspension parts. From what I can tell they are held in high regards by the earlier Mustang enthusiasts, but there doesn't seem to be much interest for the later models. Their R&T box seems like a solid package at a competitive price point, and I'm very interested.

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Did I post this in the wrong thread?

 

[04DarkShadowGT]

Did I post this in the wrong thread?

I don't think so, but you posted it an hour ago. Most people work, maybe give them some time to answer.

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Sorry didn't mean to imply that. New here and thought I might have posted in the wrong place. Thanks

 

[weather man]

Sorry didn't mean to imply that. New here and thought I might have posted in the wrong place. Thanks

No exploding dragsters or drunken cats, you're good. I don't remember a post about that kit on here though.

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

How's the weather, thanks brother! I wonder why, MM seems tops.

 

[BMR Tech]

OP, can't go wrong with Maximum Motorsports components.

If there is anything I can assist you with, please don't hesitate to let me know. We have some killer components as well.

Happy Modding!

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Thanks Terry, will do. I admire your willingness to complement the competition.

 

[CobraRed]

I was looking at this kit when i was researching suspension and decided to pass. Not a bad kit together, but you can get better for less in my opinion, but the sale does bring it closer.

Piecing that kit together myself with the deal's I've found just now, you can make it with BMR parts (including a better 38mm sway, handling springs, rod end LCA's), cutting your own bump stops down and a freedom racing rod end aluminum PHB (since BMR doesn't make an aluminum: http://shopfreedomracing.com/HD-Tri...anhard-Bar-2005-14-Mustang-FRST-HDT-9004A.htm) with $590-600 yellow koni's shipped (2-3 places online u can find this).

All for $1790, you can save more on springs or sway by going lesser or other brands.

All said, since they include the bump stops and hardware, you're def still getting a decent deal.

 

[SlowJim]

That is a nice package. Here's how I look at it....

Pros
-One stop shop
-Front spring is stiffer than most
-No need to upgrade rear sway bar due to stiff rear spring

Cons
-Rear springs are very low and probably too stiff, may require UCA due to geometry issues and will not feel nice on the street
-Shipping is $226 when I put my own location in
-People have been reporting failures quite a bit lately with Koni Yellows.

 

[BMR Tech]

Triple Adjustable PHR? What tha...? Is that a marketing deal, so it can be better than "double"? Where's Tad?

Yeah, if all new hardware and bumpstops are something you must have, then I don't see any reason to pass on the MM package. Their parts are proven, and I can vouch from personal experience that they are all pretty nicely built. I have had minor issues, but nothing crazy.

Usually in these cases, I always recommend that a person shop around and put together similar components through various quality manufactures.

When it comes to control arms, PHR, and other items....any of the components from quality companies will do just fine.

The dampers, springs and bars are the items that I feel you should really do your research. Even then though, you will see so many different opinions. Like the Koni and Bilstein debate. We sell several hundred sets of Koni's a year, and I can count on one hand how many warranty claims we have performed.

 

[mitch]

I've got that kit and I absolutely love it.
I had the entire Grip Box on my 2000 GT and loved that as well.

This chassis requires a lot less part to make it a great handling car. Still 100% compliant on the street as well.

I highly recommend it for a part time track car or great handling street car. Yes, it can be pieced together, maybe save a few bucks, but either way, all good stuff.

Any specific questions let me know.

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Thank you Gentlemen, very good points by all. Mitch defiantly appreciate your input as you actually have the components installed. Anybody else running the kit?

 

[csamsh]

Thanks Terry, will do. I admire your willingness to complement the competition.

That's Kelly not Terry, fyi.

Looks like a lot of sphericals. Just be sure what you're getting into when you put sphericals in your rear suspension. They're probably great arms though.

Vorshlag camber plates are a lot easier to work with.

Koni yellows...yeah....don't want to start yet another shitshow but we can say that opinions are mixed and sharply divided between people who run Koni yellows and people who used to run Koni yellows.

Maximum stuff is good. But...I bet I could spend $1800 in other ways and you'd be happier with the result.

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Yes, my apologies to Kelly, Feel like a tool for that one. LOL

 

[BMR Tech]

I get called a lot worse than Kelly.

So, we're good.

 

[BLKSUNSHINE13]

Wasn't aware Koni sports where held in such low regard, and happen to have a set that I will be basing my suspension build around. My primary goal is to have an excellent handling street car and think I'm willing to live with increased NVH. Do spherical bearings truly make a suspension to radical to be daily driven?

 

[BMR Tech]

They do, and they don't.

1: You want a good bearing. Teflon lined is a must.

2: You want to eliminate contamination, or prevent it.

3: You want to ensure the bearings are indexed properly. As in, you don't want one end to be perfectly vertical, and the other end to be angled. They should be the same exact orientation.

4: If possible, I HIGHLY recommend you go with a bushing/bearing design instead of bearings on each end. When you have a bearing on each end, the arm has the ability (and will) freely rotate and bottom out the bearing race on the bolt sleeves/spacers.

Ask csamsh about this. He went bearing/bearing on his UCA, and I would bet that thing clunks like nothing you ever heard before.

MY recommendation is to go with something like our LCA and PHR combos that have Poly/Bearing combos.

And the matching PHR:

This will ensure the bearing stays indexed, and does not bottom out - thus, will make NVH increase much less.

If you use these in combination with the Seals It Rod end boots (RERS3) - you will barely even notice that you have them on the car.

To take it even further, if you decided to go with the parts above I would include our new Elasto bushings for you to test out with them.

 

[CobraRed]

I get called a lot worse than Kelly.

So, we're good.

Are people calling you names because you're behind the curve when it comes to the new septuple adjustable PHB's?

 

[BMR Tech]

roflmao

My office got a kick out of that!

We were thinking about making an infinitely adjustable PHR with a large threaded rod.