toe correction

[alphableak83]

I had steeda springs, lca's, adjustable upper control arm, adjustable panhard bar, and upper strut mounts installed. I am very pleased with the ride except the toe is outside the recommended specs. the caster and camber were able to be adjusted fine with the upper strut mounts. no problem there

i believe for our cars its -.05 to .15 acceptable for the left and .15 to -.05 acceptable for the right.

currently my car is sitting at .17 for the left and -.15 for the right
so if i'm right essentially my wheels would be sitting like this // but not as drastic of course?? (when looking down from the top of the car)

the alignment sheet says that my total toe is .02 which is within the -.10 to .30 limit

my steer ahead is also off -.05 to .05 is acceptable and i am at .16 currently

i was reading that a bumpsteer kit can correct this and i just wanted to verify if thats true or what else i would need to fix this. thanks

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Couple of things: The bump-steer kit is for dynamic toe angle correction, not static. What you're relating should be a simple static adjustment.

Center the steering wheel, and strap it down. THEN crack loose the jamb nuts, and spin the inner tie rod until you achieve a net zero toe. For street driving, you may want to toe in just a touch (equal amounts on each side), for the track, zero toe, or even a touch of toe-out will help with turn-in crispness. Lock down the jambs, unstrap the wheel, and take it for a drive. Repeat as necessary...

Bump-steer is the change in toe angle as the suspension cycles up and down, and is generally related to altering the suspension mounting points (extended length ball joints, different knuckle, etc.). From what you did, you should not have induced any bump-steer into the car. If the car tracks dead straight under neutral throttle, but gets "darty" if you hit a bump, or lay hard on the brakes, then it's possible your bump-steer angle is off, and the kit would allow that to be adjusted out. Essentially, all it is is a variable-length tie rod stud.

 

[alphableak83]

ok thanks i'll give that a try

 

[Sam Strano]

SoundGuyDave is on the money. Your total toe is a touch in, which is fine. Your steering wheel is off-center when you drive as toe is self-centering. You need to straighten the wheel, take a little toe out from the LF and go a little more toe- out on the RF. You do not need anything but the wrenches--though a good alignment rack makes things about 200 times more precise and simple.

 

[Kaldar142]

for the track, zero toe, or even a touch of toe-out will help with turn-in crispness.

+1 on toe out for performance driving, i'm running 1/8th toe out and LOVE it, made the car have much better turn in response. Perfectly stable up to 150mph too