WTB: Flatbed Car Trailer (in SoCal)

psfracer

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I don't know---the fenders don't look removable to me---they look like they are welded on there. Plus the models with removable fenders usually have pins (similar to hood pins) to allow for quick removal.

Also, is 16' long enough? I was looking for an 18' long model.
 

don_w

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Later today, I'll know for sure whether the fenders are removable or not. As far as the length goes, the Mustang's total length is 188" (15'-8"), and the wheelbase is 107" (8'-11"). Is there some reason that a 16' trailer wouldn't work?
 

marcspaz

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I would be concerned about the 60/40 load split to correctly ballance the trailer. The engine being up front helps, but it would be nice if you had some room to spare.

No to mention... where is the track bike gonna fit?

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=mini+bike

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minibike.jpg
 

don_w

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I would be concerned about the 60/40 load split to correctly ballance the trailer. The engine being up front helps, but it would be nice if you had some room to spare.

No to mention... where is the track bike gonna fit?
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60/40? So far, everything I've read/heard suggests an equal load over the axles.
 

don_w

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Long day, and not much to show for it.

We went to a trailer hitch shop this morning to get a brake controller and a load distribution hitch system. Went back home and installed the adjustable ball mount and brake controller, and then headed out to look at the trailer.

The trailer is basically brand new (used once) and is in excellent shape. Overall it is about 8-1/2 feet wide and 20 feet long, which is good for the area I have to store it. The left fender is indeed removable (2 pins hold in on), and with the fender off, the top of the tires are about 10" above the bed. That should give me at least 1" to 1.5" of clearance for the door to open. It also comes with a little trailer dolly that lets you move it around by hand. That was a nice addition.

Now, the downside. Something wasn't right with the electrical connection. When we plugged it into the truck, the trailer lights didn't work. We weren't sure if it was the truck or the trailer. The seller said he had it hooked up a couple months ago and they worked fine. So, we took the truck to an RV service shop a few miles away, and the truck connector tested OK. So, there is something amiss in the trailer wiring. The seller is going to get it fixed, and I'll go back and pick it up next week sometime.

So, it looks like I'll have a trailer... but not quite yet.
 

don_w

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Congrats on the purchase. Put some welds(wheels) on it:thumb:.
Well, money hasn't changed hands yet, but I want it and he wants to sell it to me.

And the Welds would be way cool... do they make a 15", 6-lug draglite? hahah
 

psfracer

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Yeah, 20 feet long is better in my opinion. I am looking for 18, but if I find a 20 footer for a good price I will go with that one.

I had a 16 foot one before with my 67 mustang, and I didn't like how the back of the car stuck out past the end of the trailer.
 

marcspaz

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60/40? So far, everything I've read/heard suggests an equal load over the axles.

You want more weight to the front to help keep the load on the tongue. This helps keep the coupler together when hard braking and going over rough roads. It also helps the trailer track straight instead of fishtailling down the highway once you get over 50 mph.

2 of my many jobs in life was working at an RV place doing hitch installs and running 3 U-Haul shops in the area. I can't tell you how many people returned trailers with major damage to their vehicle because of improper loading. They always try to blame the shop.
 

don_w

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I understand keeping load on the tongue, but conversely, too much tongue load will drop the tongue too much and tend to "lift" the front of the tow vehichle (causing steering and braking issues), as well as make the back of the trailer light causing sway as well. That is why I got the load distribution trunnion hitch. Its supposed to increase the tongue weight load capacity by 50%, and keep everything more level going down the road.

Anyway, with a shorter trailer and my car being a little nose heavy anyway, I believe it will be just fine.
 

don_w

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Long day, and not much to show for it.

We went to a trailer hitch shop this morning to get a brake controller and a load distribution hitch system. Went back home and installed the adjustable ball mount and brake controller, and then headed out to look at the trailer.

The trailer is basically brand new (used once) and is in excellent shape. Overall it is about 8-1/2 feet wide and 20 feet long, which is good for the area I have to store it. The left fender is indeed removable (2 pins hold in on), and with the fender off, the top of the tires are about 10" above the bed. That should give me at least 1" to 1.5" of clearance for the door to open. It also comes with a little trailer dolly that lets you move it around by hand. That was a nice addition.

Now, the downside. Something wasn't right with the electrical connection. When we plugged it into the truck, the trailer lights didn't work. We weren't sure if it was the truck or the trailer. The seller said he had it hooked up a couple months ago and they worked fine. So, we took the truck to an RV service shop a few miles away, and the truck connector tested OK. So, there is something amiss in the trailer wiring. The seller is going to get it fixed, and I'll go back and pick it up next week sometime.

So, it looks like I'll have a trailer... but not quite yet.
The owner of the trailer called to say he got the electrical working, and we went back last night to pick it up. When we hooked it up to our truck, the lights still didn't work. :tdown: So after doing some trouble shooting, we found a couple crossed wires, and all is well now.

So, I paid the man and pulled it home! I need to get a few accessories (tie downs, chocks, etc), but other than that... I have a trailer now! :clap:
 

fin1

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Don,

To add my 2 cents...

You'll need to load the car up so you can determine where the car is best placed on the trailer to place enough weight on the tongue. The general rule is 10-15% of the overall weight of the car & trailer gets placed on the tongue. This may site may help:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq_trailertowtips.aspx

It took me a few highway trips to get it just right where it was stable at high speeds. Once I got the spot, I placed a black vertical mark on the side of the trailer so I know where to place the center of the front wheel on subsequent loads.

Also, don't forget to cross your chains and reduce the slack as much as possible.

You also want to test out your trailer brakes out to make sure they work and slow the trailer when it loaded. After a few firm brakes, check the axle hub for excessive heat. If one wheel hub is much hotter than the others, you may need to adjust the brake screw for that particular wheel to not have it take up too much of the load. The adjustment screw is located in the back of each wheel.

Lastly, check those tires. Sounds like it's new but make sure the tires are good. That's key. Also, it's a good idea to carry a spare.

Good luck.

Brad.
 

marcspaz

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Congrats! Now when you blast that pumkin apart you don't have to call Donna for a ride home... LOL
 

marcspaz

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Cool.

My wife has her mind made up that I am gonna die in a firey cash at the track and refuses to be there to see it. I think she is over reacting. I mean, who wouldn't want to see that?! LOL
 

don_w

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Cool.

My wife has her mind made up that I am gonna die in a firey cash at the track and refuses to be there to see it. I think she is over reacting. I mean, who wouldn't want to see that?! LOL
That's how I want to go out... in a blaze of glory! :beer: And you guys will probably see it on a video, too. haha

Plus, my heirs won't be able to fight over my car.
 

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