Your cooling mods and results?

[Pentalab]

All the local ford dealer's here in town use the vac fill procedure, for both the eng rad....and also if any blower used. When I had the 2nd auto tranny rad installed in series with the oem one, ( + deeper pan + tranny catch can ) they used a similar procedure.

 

[AJ14]

I have the vac fill/bleeder tool and with this site and some other internet resources I have figured out my car has the incorrect rad. I have a normal GT rad where I should have the boss 302 rad.... new one ordered Ford is taking care of it.....updates to come.....YAAA I can keep it....thanks for all the help....p.s. I will be sure to vac bleed the system...

 

[kcbrown]

I have the vac fill/bleeder tool and with this site and some other internet resources I have figured out my car has the incorrect rad. I have a normal GT rad where I should have the boss 302 rad.... new one ordered Ford is taking care of it.....updates to come.....YAAA I can keep it....thanks for all the help....p.s. I will be sure to vac bleed the system...

How did you determine that it's the normal GT radiator, if you don't mind me asking? I'd like to double check that I have the Boss 302 radiator in mine. While I haven't had my engine go into limp mode, I have had the oil temp "indicator" (via the gauges screen -- I have a GT Premium with the track package) go into the red.

ETA: Seems the Boss 302 radiator is 1.75" thick (roughly) while the standard GT radiator is 1" thick (roughly). I just went out and measured mine, and it's about 1.75" thick, so it does seem to be the Boss 302 radiator.

If I find my car going into limp mode at Thunderhill, then I'll replace the radiator with something with as much cooling capacity as I can find. The oil cooler setup on this car depends directly on the cooling capacity of the radiator. It should all work if the radiator has sufficient heat dissipation capability.

 

[kcbrown]

I realize it's something of bad form to be quoting myself here, but still...

If I find my car going into limp mode at Thunderhill, then I'll replace the radiator with something with as much cooling capacity as I can find. The oil cooler setup on this car depends directly on the cooling capacity of the radiator. It should all work if the radiator has sufficient heat dissipation capability.

Let's suppose that I find that the radiator isn't up to the task.

Which radiator for our cars has the most cooling capacity? Is it the M-8005-MGT radiator from Ford Racing? That seems to have a 2.25" core thickness, which is the largest I've seen of any I've seen data on so far (the Mishimoto's core thickness is 2.05").

I realize that core thickness is not necessarily all there is to it as far as the cooling capacity of a radiator, so if there are others that are better than the Ford Racing one, then I'd be interested in knowing what they are.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I got the AFCO radiator and I am super happy with it.
http://www.afcodynapro.com/content/aluminum-satin-radiator-2005-09-mustang-gt-crossflow-afco

Like I mentioned earlier, supercharged 16 PSI and cams, my motor did not break 210 after a 20 min road course session. This radiator performs phenomenally!!

 

[AJ14]

While installing the Kendall super oil cooler I noticed the rad looked small for this size engine (less than 1 inch thick) but I am a foreign car mech and we have some pretty small rads. I chalked it up to being all alum engine and thought nothing more. Then after installing cooler and taking it to the track only to have oil temps rise again (just lasted a little longer) I figured something just wasn't right. No way Ford can advertise "track package" option that only works for five laps in 68 deg weather. I sent msg to my local svc mgr who is a close friend with part# of rad in my car. He ran numbers against build sheet and determined it was a misbuild. He then ordered correct rad I installed it yesterday am and vac filled it. ALL IS WELL.....temp goes between "A" and "L" in the word normal and parks there no matter how long I keep it over 4k.... drop revs down for a few mins and oil temp drops way down. so it looks like "Ethelbert" will be sticking around for a long time. P.S. can anyone figure out how he got his name LOL??

 

[Pentalab]

I got the AFCO radiator and I am super happy with it.
http://www.afcodynapro.com/content/aluminum-satin-radiator-2005-09-mustang-gt-crossflow-afco

Like I mentioned earlier, supercharged 16 PSI and cams, my motor did not break 210 after a 20 min road course session. This radiator performs phenomenally!!

I don't think you have an oil cooler, correct ?

On a similar note, it would be interesting to know how hot the oil temps get in cars that have the larger style eng rads, (2-2.25" thick), but don't have an oil cooler (either the boss type, or a real oil cooler rad).

The Boss style oil cooler is just dumping the heat back into the eng rad, hence the bigger rad in the Boss 302.

A bigger rad is one issue, putting more air through any rad is another issue. I still contend that the 9 bar upper grille on the 05-09 cars (and 7 bar on the 10-12 cars) will go a long way to help mitigate heat issues.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I don't think you have an oil cooler, correct ?

No oil cooler.
I would install one if I had room... lol

 

[Chris borzi]

I was looking at the mishimotto oil cooler but now my fluidyne rad started to leak. I asked them what a boss R would use and they sent me this pic. This looks like the rad I saw in the stevenson camaro racecar at the contential race this past weekend. Not familar with oil coolers but what is that bottom tank? Thoughts?

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Currently I'm trying to fit a mishimoto oil cooler in with a steeda triple pass heat exchanger, plus all the factory equipment like the A/C condenser. I'll post pics of the setup when I figure it out lol.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I was looking at the mishimotto oil cooler but now my fluidyne rad started to leak. I asked them what a boss R would use and they sent me this pic. This looks like the rad I saw in the stevenson camaro racecar at the contential race this past weekend. Not familar with oil coolers but what is that bottom tank? Thoughts?

There can only be one possibility since its connected to the radiator...some kind of reservoir for the radiator.

Update:
Oh there are two fittings on that reservoir, so its some kind of cooler. I would guess an engine oil or transmission cooler; I would say engine oil cooler.

 

[Chris borzi]

Yup its an oil cooler. Manufacturer says its has an additional 18 rows from there GT/boss model to compensate for oil heating.

I guess I could run a thermostactic switch and run lines to this tank. Not sure what gains it would have over the boss cooler.

 

[neema]

Weird that they're using a water/oil cooler. I big air/oil coolers were preferred.

 

[ocpony]

I converted the Boss oil cooler to use a separate heat exchanger from an old supercharger kit I had. I mounted it in front of the condenser and it was doing much better at keeping the oil temps down and the radiator was not overtasked. I did have a two core afco radiator but was still having too high of oil and water temps when I was on the road courses for 20 minutes sessions in 95+ temps.

So I removed the radiator diverter hose that came with the boss oil cooler and put the stock one back on. I then located the factory hose connecters and rerouted 3/4" heater hose to a heat exchanger and pump. I also plumped in and mounted bubble tank. I then added a manual switch in the center console to control the pump so it only runs when I see that the engine is up to full temp. It did much better when I was running in the USCA on the Daytona Speedway and the Road America course. Unfortunately a wall at RA took out the heat exchanger along with the whole front in so I have to rebuild it. It was cheaper than doing the Seatrab oil cooler.

 

[Chris borzi]

Have any photos of it?

 

[ocpony]

Took some photos but I changed the memory card out and now I can't find the card. I think it was in my cup holder during the collision with the wall at road America. The current condition of the heat exchanger is not so good either. It I find them I will post them otherwise I won't have anymore until the I have finished rebuilding the front end and reinstalling a used one I found on ebay.

Sorry.

 

[ocpony]

I also am trying the Mishimoto three row radiator and the GT500 slim radiator fan. I hope it will fill as mine is an Automatic so I have to deal with the tranny cooler in between the radiator and condenser. I had also added an additional OEM tranny cooler inline with the stock cooler but located it in front of the condenser at the top of the core support. I had the Afco two row in it when I wrecked so it was toast but had been keeping temps under 240*.

 

[Pentalab]

I also am trying the Mishimoto three row radiator and the GT500 slim radiator fan. I hope it will fill as mine is an Automatic so I have to deal with the tranny cooler in between the radiator and condenser. I had also added an additional OEM tranny cooler inline with the stock cooler but located it in front of the condenser at the top of the core support. I had the Afco two row in it when I wrecked so it was toast but had been keeping temps under 240*.

I have a 2010 automatic, so put the B+M tranny cooler (bar + plate type) inline with the oem tranny cooler, but mounted the B+M below the oem cooler. IE: both are between the ac rad and eng rad. The roush He for the blower is on standoffs, and in front of the ac rad. The small power steering rad is sandwiched between the ac rad + HE...at the bottom. ( he is 18" tall x 21" wide). It all barely fits. Plenty of airflow with the 7 bar upper grille. So far, so good, but temps here rarely exceed 80 F.

 

[2Fass240us]

What temperature is yellow almost red?

Digging this up because I was at an event a few weeks ago and had to cut every session short due to pegging Red in the cluster oil temp gauge.

 

[Sky Render]

Digging this up because I was at an event a few weeks ago and had to cut every session short due to pegging Red in the cluster oil temp gauge.

So according to the literature that cane with the BOSS 302 R/S, oil temps should "never exceed 300*F." So I assume that as long as you have decently thick oil, you won't cook the bearings until 300*F.

FWIW, I hit 240*F just going up a mountain on the Interstate in the summer.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk