Your cooling mods and results?

[Pentalab]

A few fellows have had air in there....enough to cause the problems you are seeing. The fix was to drain the coolant.... then have it vacuum filled by your dealer. Problem solved.

For those with a blower, the HE-IC loop also has to be vacuum filled.

 

[barbaro]

Oh, boy, here we go again... Somebody else want to take point on this before Barbaro comes in and gets all righteous on my ass again?

Are you insecure? Do you fear that I will leap at you from the shadows of the internet? Self righteousness is reserved for the self appointed experts. I am not one. I feel no need to comment other than to address you Dave: Boo!

 

[Pentalab]

One other thing I did was install the Mishimoto radiator cover, which is an air diversion type. Instead of straight across (front to back) like oem, it has an offset close to the rad side, and drops down a bit ( towards the grille). They cut two slots in it so the oem upper grille mounted foglamps stick through the slots a bit. If a 7 bar grille is used, the slots are blocked off. Dunno how effective it is, but the idea was to channel more air through the upper portion of the rads. This was for my 2010..and fits the 10-12 cars.

 

[Sharad]

A few fellows have had air in there....enough to cause the problems you are seeing. The fix was to drain the coolant.... then have it vacuum filled by your dealer. Problem solved.

For those with a blower, the HE-IC loop also has to be vacuum filled.

Never heard of this! Is this a common thing? My car got hot at Sebring, and I did NOT vacuum fill the coolant.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Never heard of this! Is this a common thing? My car got hot at Sebring, and I did NOT vacuum fill the coolant.

Yes!! All modern cars have to be vacuum filled. Its standard coolant maintenance.

If you have a descent size compressor, get yourself one of these:

Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In the S197, there is no way for air to work itself out since the coolant system is self contained. Its not like the old school coolant systems that you just fill, run the motor, and add fluid until its full.

These systems need to be vacuumed, check for leaks (under vacuum), then configure the system to suck up all the coolant as you release the vacuum valve. After a couple of heat cycles, re-fill the reservoir as needed.

 

[sheizasosay]

Turn heater to max position.
Fill expansion tank to cold fill range.
Leave cap off and run engine to open thermostat.
Turn engine off and let it cool.
Add coolant to cold fill range.
Squeeze upper radiator hose to expel air.
Add coolant if necessary.
Put the cap back on.
Run the car to temp and turn heater on max and fan on. Air should be hot This is a good indication that the air is purged.

Edit-changed "warm" to "hot".

 

[AutoXRacer]

The air out of the heater should be hot not warm.
If the air its just warm, you have cooling/heating issues.

 

[Pentalab]

The air out of the heater should be hot not warm.
If the air its just warm, you have cooling/heating issues.

Agreed, I would still vac fill it though, either with the kit on the url u posted, or get the dealer to do it...esp since his is under warranty.

The procedure that sheizasosay posted may also work. Folks who have gotten air into their HE-IC loop with blower's have managed to clear the air by driving over cattle guard crossings /speed bumps ! The line can also be squeezed by hand too. That may well get you out of a jam, but still won't get all of the air out.
Vac filling is as good as it gets, then you are sure to remove all the air.

Ideally you would want to use 100% distilled water + water wetter during warm /hot wx.... then swap back to the 50-50 mix in late fall.

 

[sheizasosay]

The air out of the heater should be hot not warm.
If the air its just warm, you have cooling/heating issues.

Yes. "Normal" hot or hot like it was from the factory .

 

[2013kAB]

i've read the mishimoto can be unreliable and leak, though it has a lifetime no ?'s asked replacement policy.

edit: oh, and i read that the ecu apparently does calculations to display the eGauge on the dash for oil temps. from what i've found is that none of the odb2 /ecu readers can display that.

 

[Boaisy]

Yet, almost everyone uses Mishimoto radiators if they upgrade from OEM.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Yet, almost everyone uses Mishimoto radiators if they upgrade from OEM.

Just bought one hehehehe!

 

[sheizasosay]

Agreed, I would still vac fill it though, either with the kit on the url u posted, or get the dealer to do it...esp since his is under warranty.

The procedure that sheizasosay posted may also work. Folks who have gotten air into their HE-IC loop with blower's have managed to clear the air by driving over cattle guard crossings /speed bumps ! The line can also be squeezed by hand too. That may well get you out of a jam, but still won't get all of the air out.
Vac filling is as good as it gets, then you are sure to remove all the air.

Ideally you would want to use 100% distilled water + water wetter during warm /hot wx.... then swap back to the 50-50 mix in late fall.

There is no "maybe" about it. It works.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Yes!! All modern cars have to be vacuum filled. Its standard coolant maintenance.

If you have a descent size compressor, get yourself one of these:

Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In the S197, there is no way for air to work itself out since the coolant system is self contained. Its not like the old school coolant systems that you just fill, run the motor, and add fluid until its full.

These systems need to be vacuumed, check for leaks (under vacuum), then configure the system to suck up all the coolant as you release the vacuum valve. After a couple of heat cycles, re-fill the reservoir as needed.

I've honestly never vacuum filled. Ever lol. I've never needed to; I've always been able to fill the coolant normally.

Here's the Ford procedure:

 

[AJ14]

I don't think I have an air pocket in the cooling system. The reason I say this is because I have tracked the car right from the showroom floor and oil temps skyrocketed. I have zero problems with coolant temps its the oil temps which are going up.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Yet, almost everyone uses Mishimoto radiators if they upgrade from OEM.

What!!?? No way... AFCO for me. lol

 

[AutoXRacer]

I don't think I have an air pocket in the cooling system. The reason I say this is because I have tracked the car right from the showroom floor and oil temps skyrocketed. I have zero problems with coolant temps its the oil temps which are going up.

What are the oil temps?

 

[Sky Render]

I've honestly never vacuum filled. Ever lol. I've never needed to; I've always been able to fill the coolant normally.

Here's the Ford procedure:

Nice!

Here's the PDF for both procedures (with and without vacuum) from the Chilton's Manual. I give to the Proletariat.

 

[Boaisy]

What!!?? No way... AFCO for me. lol

like I said ALMOST everyone.

 

[Sharad]

Yes!! All modern cars have to be vacuum filled. Its standard coolant maintenance.

If you have a descent size compressor, get yourself one of these:

Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In the S197, there is no way for air to work itself out since the coolant system is self contained. Its not like the old school coolant systems that you just fill, run the motor, and add fluid until its full.

These systems need to be vacuumed, check for leaks (under vacuum), then configure the system to suck up all the coolant as you release the vacuum valve. After a couple of heat cycles, re-fill the reservoir as needed.

My car got hot at Sebring, and I suspect it was an air pocket. It can't hurt to take it to the the dealership and vac fill it... just to be safe. But ultimately I'd like to buy this tool and learn to do it myself.

Thanks for the info!