PA Alternators: Anyone have any issues?

[NastyStang113]

Well, looks like my OEM alternator is shitting the bed. Got the check charging system light on the dash. No CELs. Datalogged and it's putting out 12 volts.

I'm looking at getting a PA Alternator but want to hear if anyone has had any issues or it's been smooth sailing? Who has the best prices on them?

 

[AndrewNagle]

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66355

 

[NastyStang113]

Thanks.

 

[AndrewNagle]

I have one and bought it directly from them. I did not want any issues if I had to do a warranty claim. I did have a problem the same week we instAlled it and dynoed the car (for otHer upgrades) and they were spot on and fixed it without a fight. They just wanted to make sure, we were using an oem crank pulley. Andrew

 

[AndrewNagle]

Went with a white 130 amp

Not sure why I paid the extra for white since you can't see it !

 

[Towelly]

Quick question, I didn't see in discussion about this in Mickey's thread. At what point do you "need" the 200A ? My setup is; Shaker 1000 with a Pioneer head unit, Dual Ford GT pump's with a 2nd factory FPDM and soon Methanol injection. I have no plan's on going any deeper into my stereo system and no plans on anything that will suck juice down aside from the Methanol injection pump. Should this setup require 200A? I'm basically in the same boat as nasty right now and I'm thinking about just getting a factory rebuilt 130A.

 

[NastyStang113]

I just wonder how long I've got... I really don't want to get stuck on the side of the road.

 

[Towelly]

I haven't seen a CEL yet, but I took the good ole' Multimeter out and check it. I'm producing anywhere from 11.8-12.0 volts at idle and most I've seen is 12.5 volts. When I do the "check system" deal it says charging system ok.

I noticed it when I took a couple short trips one day and the car hardly started. Drove it home and was like whatever, another short trip. The next morning it wouldn't start. I don't think its a problem once its running, at least cruising. But if your issues are like mine, if you take short trips it will die on you.

 

[NastyStang113]

Same thing, no CEL here.

I also do a lot of short trips so I'm sure that helped.

 

[tmcolegr]

Just a reminder, if you upgrade to a 200 amp alternator, you'll also need to replace the OEM battery cable to the alternator as it has an 8 gage fusible link that will not support the higher amp alternator.

 

[one eyed willy]

I haven't seen a CEL yet, but I took the good ole' Multimeter out and check it. I'm producing anywhere from 11.8-12.0 volts at idle and most I've seen is 12.5 volts. When I do the "check system" deal it says charging system ok.

I noticed it when I took a couple short trips one day and the car hardly started. Drove it home and was like whatever, another short trip. The next morning it wouldn't start. I don't think its a problem once its running, at least cruising. But if your issues are like mine, if you take short trips it will die on you.

those are normal voltages for the car at idle without the a/c or headlights on.....everything is controlled by the tune, and normally the tune is 12 volts at idle and can be changed in the tune if you want.once your rpms go up, your mutimeter would probably be showing 14 volts.

if its slow to crank then you may just have a battery going bad.

 

[Towelly]

those are normal voltages for the car at idle without the a/c or headlights on.....everything is controlled by the tune, and normally the tune is 12 volts at idle and can be changed in the tune if you want.once your rpms go up, your mutimeter would probably be showing 14 volts.

if its slow to crank then you may just have a battery going bad.

I used to see over 13 (13.8ish)volts at idle. It has nothing to do with the tune, it has to do with the voltage regulator and the diode on the back of the alternator. I love how everyone always blames the tune first. . .

 

[NastyStang113]

Why would I be getting the "Check Charging System" error than..?

 

[Litebulb]

I put a "Power Bastards" 200 amp alternator on my car earlier in the year to keep up with all the dang fuel system and stuff i had going on. Didnt catch at first that they sent it with a regular (non clutch) pulley. I never had one problem with dead batteries with it running the nasty magnafuel pump and everything else. At the Texas Mile though when i did a burn out before my first run, the pulley backed off the alternator throwing the belt. I didnt realize it with the pump not dropping voltage running off the battery. Long story short antifreeze was all over my windshield at the 3/4 mile marker lol I also got lots of pretty sparks when reving it over 6500 on the dyno lol.

I put the stock alternators clutch pulley on after that and now i notice at idle its the same situation where it almost doesnt keep up. its a healthy toss up lol. I dont drive the car a lot so i will just pull it out and let it run for a while and i know that doesnt help. hopefully no one has the stupid issues ive had!!

 

[bigray327]

I burned up a PA Performance 130A alternator, same failure signature as the stock POS. I learned from a very smart alternator rebuilder that you simply cannot jump start these cars, or even charge the battery with the alternator connected.

 

[bradleyem]

Normal voltage with the car running, at idle should be around 13.2V. Depending on load and engine speed, mine fluctuates between 13.2-14.5V as monitored on my SCT Livewire. The check charging system indication and battery light usually do not come on until the voltage is under 10 volts. The gauge is so buffered that when my alternator died, my Livewire was reading around 9 volts before I got any indication at all.

 

[Towelly]

Why would I be getting the "Check Charging System" error than..?

Normal voltage with the car running, at idle should be around 13.2V. Depending on load and engine speed, mine fluctuates between 13.2-14.5V as monitored on my SCT Livewire. The check charging system indication and battery light usually do not come on until the voltage is under 10 volts. The gauge is so buffered that when my alternator died, my Livewire was reading around 9 volts before I got any indication at all.

I agree with Bradley. You probably finely got it below 10 volts for whatever period of time it takes for that test to complete.


I think BigRay is on the right track as well. I think I may just have mine rebuilt and get a good battery tender. Disconnect the alt. whenever I store it and hook up the tender.

 

[bradleyem]

I burned up a PA Performance 130A alternator, same failure signature as the stock POS. I learned from a very smart alternator rebuilder that you simply cannot jump start these cars, or even charge the battery with the alternator connected.

I'm sure that there is truth to this also. I tried to charge the battery in mine once when the battery was just about dead. When I turned on the charger, the amp meter pegged and the charger shut off on over current. Once I disconnected the cars battery leads, and just charged the battery alone, it was fine. I cringe any time that I have to jump start my car or jump start someone elses car for just that reason...

 

[BruceH]

Normal voltage with the car running, at idle should be around 13.2V. Depending on load and engine speed, mine fluctuates between 13.2-14.5V as monitored on my SCT Livewire. The check charging system indication and battery light usually do not come on until the voltage is under 10 volts. The gauge is so buffered that when my alternator died, my Livewire was reading around 9 volts before I got any indication at all.

The stock tune sets 12 volts at idle. Charging system parameters are set to 13.1 for good and charging system bad is 11.89.

 

[Manny]

I installed this one:
http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=381
about a year ago and had no problems with it.