bc coil-overs for 2011+

[fivehunsky]

Did you get the adjustable lower mount under the rear springs? I am no where near my car to look at the part number or I would tell you if it was the same.

 

[one eyed willy]

Yes, one thing I didn't do is put the rubber gasket in under the adjuster, I just found them so ill put those in there tomorrow. But that's only going to raise it maybe 1/8th of an inch. Other that that they are fully raised minus 3-4 threads. I guess I could fully raise it to the top....but I don't think that's going to be much more either.

After the height is good, how do you adjust the height of the shock? Right now the shock is way too high and riding on the bumpstop inside the dustboot. 8.75 inches from the top of the shock to the botton non-threaded part.Ill probably call BC tomorrow, their instructions suck! Not very model specific at all.

 

[one eyed willy]

so i got the rubber gasket in there and raised the rear perches up as far as im comfortable raising them and the car sits perfect.

i ve called BC and left them a message on the rear shock height.basicaly i need to know from the gap at the top from the dustboot/bumpstop to the metal washer that holds the rubber bumper where it bolts to the inner fender. right now its around 1.5 inches.

 

[DRock]

post a pic 1eye

 

[Roadracer350]

I was about to ask the same. Shoot a pic up so we can see.

 

[one eyed willy]

ill take some pics when i pull it apart leter, i talked to BC and they said with the spring perch raised all the way up, i would want the bottom of the shock half way up in the window/hole in the lower housing. i have it close to that now.

 

[one eyed willy]

Did you guys open up the strut tower to get easy access to the camber adjustments?

 

[bullitt2086]

Did you guys open up the strut tower to get easy access to the camber adjustments?

^ this how do you guy do your alignments and camber settings With your bc coil overs? It's a real pain in the ass and the only way I've been able to do it is by unbolting the strut mount and dropping the coil over just enough to get my Allen wrench in there and adjust the camber plates...?????

 

[one eyed willy]

I'm planning to make the hole bigger, shouldn't be too hard, looks like if I open it up about 1/2 I could get it to clear .

 

[fivehunsky]

I opened mine up with a hole saw then it was tig welded a little for structural reasons. I also run a strut tower brace. Before that I just loosened the top bolts and let it drop a little to adjust it. No big deal.

 

[one eyed willy]

No weight on the axle, all the way down

You can see here how far up the perch is, you can see the back side of the threads , so it's not going up any higher!

This is the window that BC says with the perch all the way up, the bottom of the shock should sit in the middle of this window....currently it is 1/4-1/2 inch below this window.

So with all the weight on the rear axle, this is the clearance left over ..... My concern is if I hit a bump, it looks like I have about 1 inch before the shock would bottom out (even less if I put it where BC wants me to)

I sent the pics to BC as well, waiting for them to respond.

 

[Whiskey11]

I sent the pics to BC as well, waiting for them to respond.

Yeaaaaah, screw the shock down for more clearance... That is no where near enough. As for the rear springs, I'm not horribly surprised, 7.5" is awfully short. My GC kit used 10" rear coilover springs on perches and they have plenty of adjustment.

 

[one eyed willy]

Yup, the GC I just pulled out are 10" 200lb springs. These are 7.5" 280lb. I felt the GC needed to be more, it rode great but if I Hit a bump the ass end would bottom out real easy, and if I adjusted the Koni any harder the car would get bouncy feeling.

 

[Whiskey11]

Yup, the GC I just pulled out are 10" 200lb springs. These are 7.5" 280lb. I felt the GC needed to be more, it rode great but if I Hit a bump the ass end would bottom out real easy, and if I adjusted the Koni any harder the car would get bouncy feeling.

200 is a pretty substantial amount of rear spring rate and 280 is obviously a lot more. The issue isn't necessarily bottoming out but how easily the rear of the car rotates. With the FR500 cars they used to run 300lb/in rear springs with NO rear swaybar (or a very small one) and much better rear motion ratio in the rear, but they run 600 lb/in front springs and 35mm front bars to keep the car from being an oversteering mess.

Your mileage may vary... I find that a 35mm front bar, 440front, 200 rear and a roll center around an inch higher than a PHB would put it at my ride height, to be very neutral with -2.9º camber. Then again, my suspension is much more different than yours is and I don't find the body roll to be awful or the suspension to bottom out.

 

[HellsBells]

So with all the weight on the rear axle, this is the clearance left over ..... My concern is if I hit a bump, it looks like I have about 1 inch before the shock would bottom out (even less if I put it where BC wants me to)

Just a quick note, this will not bottom out the shock. This will cause the frame to hit the bumpstop if you use up the 1 inch of travel. It won't damage the shock (this is why they use the collar adjustments; on other coilovers such as the KW's, it actually reduces the amount of shock travel left when you lower the vehicle--but the shocks are longer and designed as such).

 

[Clipboard]

Good conversation up above i like all the information flowing . Quick question
i have springs koni yellows and caster camber plates on the way do i need anything or should i grab anything else before i attempt the install?

 

[HellsBells]

Good conversation up above i like all the information flowing . Quick question
i have springs koni yellows and caster camber plates on the way do i need anything or should i grab anything else before i attempt the install?

The top nut on the strut mount is usually pretty tough. What happens is the shock shaft rotates as you try to torque it down. I, and a good amount of people on here, have used impact guns to torque it down. Air tool are always a good idea for suspension work, just make sure to set the air gun torque on low.

 

[one eyed willy]

I opened it up for the camber adjustments.

Finally took it for a ride with 15 clicks from soft front and rear and it feels great so far.

 

[Clipboard]

I opened it up for the camber adjustments.

Finally took it for a ride with 15 clicks from soft front and rear and it feels great so far.

your car so pretty...inside and out

The top nut on the strut mount is usually pretty tough. What happens is the shock shaft rotates as you try to torque it down. I, and a good amount of people on here, have used impact guns to torque it down. Air tool are always a good idea for suspension work, just make sure to set the air gun torque on low.

i only own hand tools ;( looks like ill have to pay someone for the install lol

 

[DRock]

I opened it up for the camber adjustments.

Finally took it for a ride with 15 clicks from soft front and rear and it feels great so far.

Would you dare say better than you GC settup?