Deciding between a T56 XL Mangnum or RST/RST clutch setup..........

slvr08gt

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Like the title reads.

This is my third MT82 5.0 I've owned in the past 3 years.

- My first MT82 was a 2.3 Whippled 2011 and shifted decent, it had the original Barton rear bracket, Hurst shifter, and a set of motor mounts.

- The second MT82 was a full bolt on 2013 and shifted horrible, it had the MGW shifter and a set of motor mounts.

- Current 2013 MT82 with 900 miles on it has had its fair share of daily shotty notchy shifting. Haven't added any brackets or shifter yet, car is still bone stock.

Here's my dilemma.

Since I have owned a few of these MT82's now, and all of them displayed notchy/crunchy shifting that drives me bat shit bonkers. There were a few mods to the MT82 that I never tried because I never heard they were a "for sure fix" for the MT82. Those mods were:

- Upgraded clutch (McLeod RST/RXT or similar twin disk)

- Upgraded clutch line

- Whiteline cross member brace (Wasn't available when I had my first two MT82's)

- Change factory fluids to a quality DOT4 or 5

I'm trying to decide whether I should give the MT82 another try by installing a RST/RXT plus clutch line or just drop the $5K on the Magnum XL T56 and be done.

Only reason I'm considering giving the MT82 another chance, is it would give me an extra $3500 to put towards my build that will take place in a few months. Basically, instead of going with a Paxton kit, I could purchase a couple other higher end kits that I have my eye on. I would also REALLY hate to drop $1200-1300 on a nice twin disk/FW setup, for it to display the same notchy shifting habits as the MT82 already does(at least in my opinion).

Please don't suggest that I take the car to the dealer to be checked out or suggest that I put another 1000 miles on the car for the tranny to break in a little more. Been there, done that with my past MT82's. Hawaii Ford dealer service departments are shit on this island.

Opinions/Advice ??

-Nick :beer
 

Mystickeith50

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Well I guess it really depends...i have 700 to the tire with an rxt, Barton stuff, driveshaft, etc. Mine always shifted great though. I kinda wish I went with the magnum but I've been fine. Plus there is a huge price difference.
 

Falkinman

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The upgraded clutch line was the best mod I did to mine next to the barton shifter and bracket. Yes it's still a little clunky during normal driving but 7,000 RPM no lift shifts are slicker than whale shit!
 

memmer

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I have a 600hp and 500tq @ the tire Boss track car and put a TR6060 with a lightweight exedy clutch and single piece drive shaft in it and I am extremely happy with the whole setup. One of the best mods that has been done to the car.

Personally Id change the box to the magnum xl if I were in your shoes, i had the factory box with a MGW shifter and it was better but nothing like the tremec box, clutch, and drive shaft.
 

kona302

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Is there any cars the XL comes with from the factory ? I wonder what it would feel like in comparison to the MT82.
 

marcspaz

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I look at this a few different ways.

1.) Do you was to keep a factory warranty of any kind or is it not an issue?

2.) Is money a concern or can you comfortably spend $5k to $7k?

So, if money is money isn't an issue and you don't care about the warranty, do the swap. JPC has a complete kit for $5k including the clutch, DS, lines, etc. (labor extra of course).

If you want a warranty leave the clutch alone and replace the clutch line, shifter brace and trans mount or install a mount insert. If you want to get even more aggressive, do a K member brace with transmission torque limiters.

If you don't care about the warranty, but money is an issue, all the combine mods to make the MT82 shift right every time are going to all cost about the same as doing the trans swap by the time its over... so just do the swap.



Me personally, I need the warranty. I daily drive my Mustang about 18k-20k per year and trade them in for a new one when the warranty is over.

One of my 2013's was shifting so bad that every third or fourth shift attempt to 3rd gear resulted in a lockout, regardless of how casual I was driving. After about 3 weeks of that shit and the dealer saying the "couldn't duplicate the issue" (yea, sure), I did some minor stuff to help myself. I did the shifter bracket and the braided clutch line. During the course of the rest of the year, I only had 3 other lockouts. I don't know if they were driver error or not, but 3 times in a year was a major improvement over every 3 or 4 gear changes.

My other 13 GT never had a bit of trouble. Still have that one too and it shifts great. Not sure why one is fine and the other is a POS. Pissed me off enough though.
 
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Dillon Dollar

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I've got an rxt clutch kit for sale in the class fields just saying lol

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 

Drkmrkiv

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Marcspaz,

As my car is starting to approach 70k miles (2012... I drive a lot) I have been thinking about going with an XL or overhauling the MT.

A complete swap is 5k in parts, however I would assume anyone doing the swap could recoup at least 1,500-2,000 by selling the Getrag.

When start comparing a new transmission for around 3k vs. new clutch, flywheel, clutch line, and basic rebuild... The XL is within reach of the MT.
 

marcspaz

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Honestly, $5k for trans type or model swap is completely reasonable; just a hard nut to swallow for the average Joe. If you have the opportunity, I would say do it, but don't count on selling the MT for anything.

I have purchased used TR3650's with 2,000 to 5,000 miles on them for $1,500. I got an older one with 36,000 miles on it for $450 and the Tremec is a way better trans than the Getrag. No way in hell you are going to find anyone willing to buy a MT82 with 70,000+ miles on it at all; never mind for $2,000. If someone does, it would be because they don't know a damn thing about transmissions.

Something to think about when making this choice... the XL gearbox is the same design as the TR3650, but with a 6th gear. Tremec specifically designed and released the T-56 Magnum XL for 2005+ S197's. Plus the XL is rated for 700 ft lbs of torque straight out of the box.
 
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