got my DOB R-SPEC!

crownaviation

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Crown - Did you ever get the electrical issue sorted out? I'm curious on the power this combination makes!

Nope not yet. Just got my manual the other day and worked on it a few hours. Work 6 days/wk sucks balls (especially when on salary). Anyway I am inching forward. May just buy a new freggin wire harness and start the fack over
 

Dubstep Shep

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Nope not yet. Just got my manual the other day and worked on it a few hours. Work 6 days/wk sucks balls (especially when on salary). Anyway I am inching forward. May just buy a new freggin wire harness and start the fack over
Lol make me one while you're at it hehehe
 

GreenTerror

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Nope not yet. Just got my manual the other day and worked on it a few hours. Work 6 days/wk sucks balls (especially when on salary). Anyway I am inching forward. May just buy a new freggin wire harness and start the fack over

Hurry up I'm going to be in your neck of the woods in 3 weeks and I want to see evidence of smoking burnouts everywhere I go!
 

crownaviation

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Terrible pic but good motivation. Just finished swapping the sensors etc over to the corbeau seats and got them installed.

Another plus is I think I may have figured out the wire issue. This weekend will have time to put it back together and try to start it. Still need a set of gt500 fore rails as my gt fore rails won't work for this prototype r-spec. Big bummer but oh well. Trying to track down Jeremy to order a set

IMG-20150210-WA0004_zpspp3u7kcm.jpg
 

crownaviation

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Well fml (again). Have tested so much crap and still can't find anything wrong thus far (except the fact the fucker won't start). Everything from voltage drop tests, ckp resistance check (new sensor to boot), voltage checks and continuity checks that will give anyone a headache. Every circuit tested included wire color and pin location at both ends of circuit. HOLY SHIT BATMAN THATS A HUGE DICK YOU HAVE IN MY ASS

Just tested my pcm in a buddies car and his car started right up. With my PCM in his car I then put my BEC in and it still started right up. Put 3 of my cops in his car, ran fine.

I am about to order a brand new freggin engine harness and start over with a fresh night sleep this time. Just beside myself to run into a problem like this. Baffling part is if something was backwards in the system you would "think" another system would malfunction (like fucking headlights or turn signals or something would not work). Everything I can test with the car not running checks out fine. Not able to test the trans stuff (was working before).

I have NOT checked anything with to do with the O2 sensors yet but will in the morning (later today I should say). Not that that would interfere with spark, but I have tested damn near everything else why the hell not.

I did think about taking the car to Ford and have them run diagnostic with their IDS but not sure what they could actually discover without the car running.

PATS only disables the injectors (which work) and the starter relay control so that's not it either. Pats is not showing any malfucnctions either. Not much that actually disables the damn cops in this system.

Blah. very discouraging deal. May take it to my friends shop to put it back on the scope to check for ckp and cps sync. Even with the stupid cam sensors unplugged the car should start so not sure that would even effect spark if the cams were all geeked up. I did have an issue with the first set of custom cams COMP ground (left profile ground in right cam/ right profile ground in left cam). Again, even if the damn cam sensors were unplugged it should still start and not affect spark.

At least the new seats make it more entertaining to sit in and simulate racing... fucking gay
 
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go302

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Idk if it's been covered but make 100% sure the crank position sensor is wired correctly or it will not start
 

crownaviation

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Idk if it's been covered but make 100% sure the crank position sensor is wired correctly or it will not start

It is wired correctly and checked about a dozen times. The ckp (connector c101) is a two pin connector. Pin 1 is circuit 138 (BK-PK) and terminates at the PCM (connector C175E pin 47). Pin 2 is circuit 139 (GY-YE) and terminates at the PCM (connector C175E pin 48). New sensor. Resistance was around 380 ohms iirc which was well within spec for that sensor.

Continuity checked good, pin location etc all checked both circuits. I also see the crank signal in the datalog while cranking. Injectors cross reference this signal against the cam sensors to fire IIRC. Injectors work as they are supposed to.

I typically check each sensor that there is not continuity where there should not be with the other pins etc.

Every COP was checked in the manner above as well including the power wires which do have 12v at each cop. Voltage drop test performed at C175B pins 47-50 while cranking (along with several other circuits) and well within spec. Voltage drop test done with ground wire (proper connection) attached directly to the battery (-) terminal.

All ground wires at BEC (quite a few) checked at termination points including verified splice locations were not crossed in the wire tuck. Also checked most circuits at C110. Shield wire for CKP also checked out having continuity to several ground locations as it should.

Ground location G102/G103 were moved from the radiator core support near the PCM new location (common in wire tuck as it prevents having to extend and tamper with the circuit). All paint was removed and several continuity checks conducted to ensure that ground is good.

PCM bracket was welded to chasis along with using the one bolt tab. Paint was removed prior to this and good ground was established from PCM case to chassis (checked in several locations).

Will check for presence of voltage in shield circuit tomorrow while having someone crank. Also will do a few more key-on tests. PITA

The stupid PCM will not ground the coil for whatever reason (in my car)

Brand new Red Top that is left on a battery tender and battery disconnected each day. Motor spins great and showing about 170rpm in datalog while cranking

Bastard does not even have the courtesy of throwing a code. Like not getting a reach around while getting fucked in the ass
 
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go302

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If what you're saying is true then it's turning over, fuel is getting injected, and spark is igniting the only thing that is holding this thing back is throttle position or something with the MAF. Is it even firing? you're auto?
 

crownaviation

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If what you're saying is true then it's turning over, fuel is getting injected, and spark is igniting the only thing that is holding this thing back is throttle position or something with the MAF. Is it even firing? you're auto?

No spark at all. PCM will not ground any of the cops (which is how the cops are controlled via input from the ckp). MAF, TPS, FRPS, CHT and TB motor circuits all checked out.

I have a 4r70w swap (manual valve body) that was done and running well before the wire tuck. Car was originally a 5r55s auto. I also deleted the entire evap system well before the wire tuck and all worked great. Also return fuel system etc.. all good before the tuck.

Tuck started after I built a new motor and switched to the big Whipple. Custom cams, custom pistons and tons of head work etc. None of that was run before the tuck. Tried to get the car pretty for upcoming (well, past) photo shoot for magazine and got in a physically fatigued state trying to finish. Broke most of my own major rules in modding
 
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crownaviation

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uggh this sucks. This is gonna be a doozy

yup. Think at this point may just start over with a new freggin harness. Have more time in troubleshooting now (and money) than if I just started the phaq over. Not to mention new rings are not liking this much. Most the testing was done with the fuel pumps disconnected tho so hopefully I did not wash out the cylinders. I have been frequently misting some motor oil in the cylinders to help save the rings and hone. still not happy with all the cranking. She needs to break in soon

I always do compression and leak down after I break in the rings. Hopefully I won't have to re-ring and re-hone after all this shit
 
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one eyed willy

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This sucks, i bet when you do find the problem it will be something so small that just got overlooked.

I had a real bad problem 10+ years ago with a car that would intermittently just start running like crap, i replaced everything and it never changed the issue. Finally broke down and bought a new wiring harness for the car after the dealership ran a scan and told me that was my problem.

While switching out the harness (88mitsubishi starion turbo) i found the plug that went to the injector driver had a pin pushed out of the back side, so it was not allowing a good connection.....once that was fixed it purred like a kitten....loved that car!

You may have the correct voltage on your wires, but since you de-pinned all of your connectors are you sure they are seated in the connectors properly? On my starion when i pushed the connector on, that's what pushed the pin through the back side, so i could never really see it because of the waterproof seal.Just a thought,seems like you have tried everything under the sun. I would focus on that crank sensor. Is it possible to borrow your buddies car again and unplug a few things to try and replicate the exact problem? maybe help narrow it down on your car.
 

GoneFord

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Ok, I'm now officially so afraid to do a wire tuck... it's just not going to happen. If a guy like you with your mad skills is struggling with this then I need to just stay away.

I sure hope you get this fixed. I wanna see some videos of this beast!
 

Wes06

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..... Is the battery connected?
Lol

Hope you get whatever it is fixed
 

crownaviation

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..... Is the battery connected?
Lol

Hope you get whatever it is fixed
:nk:

This sucks, i bet when you do find the problem it will be something so small that just got overlooked.

I had a real bad problem 10+ years ago with a car that would intermittently just start running like crap, i replaced everything and it never changed the issue. Finally broke down and bought a new wiring harness for the car after the dealership ran a scan and told me that was my problem.

While switching out the harness (88mitsubishi starion turbo) i found the plug that went to the injector driver had a pin pushed out of the back side, so it was not allowing a good connection.....once that was fixed it purred like a kitten....loved that car!

You may have the correct voltage on your wires, but since you de-pinned all of your connectors are you sure they are seated in the connectors properly? On my starion when i pushed the connector on, that's what pushed the pin through the back side, so i could never really see it because of the waterproof seal.Just a thought,seems like you have tried everything under the sun. I would focus on that crank sensor. Is it possible to borrow your buddies car again and unplug a few things to try and replicate the exact problem? maybe help narrow it down on your car.

I was pretty meticulous as ever connector you must remove the plastic wedge to de-pin them. Can't buy just the wedge or the gaskets on the connector and many you have to buy a complete pig tail if you damage I've. I replaced about 4 that I was not happy with at about $50 each. I was extremely careful with that process but anything is possible at this point.

Ok, I'm now officially so afraid to do a wire tuck... it's just not going to happen. If a guy like you with your mad skills is struggling with this then I need to just stay away.

I sure hope you get this fixed. I wanna see some videos of this beast!

I would do one again. I would just follow my rules that normally keep me out of trouble
 

swflastang05

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Okay forgive me for even asking such a dumb ass question but at this point if it were me I would be open to ANY suggestions... Did you degree those cams in? Have you double checked for TDC on the compression stroke, etc? Just askin' since as you know it is entirely possible to install the cams 180 degrees out and then it wont start.
 

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