Boss Intake

[Five Oh Brian]

Most of the dyno graphs I've seen for Boss 302 intake manifolds vs stock shows that the real gains are once you're over 7,000 rpm's. For anyone running their car over 7,000 rpm's often, it's a great choice. For example, I'm still running the stock intake manifold on my car, but given that I have a 5,000 rpm stall, 4.10 gears, off-road H-pipe, and a great Mike Rousch tune shifting my trans at 7,500 rpm's, I'd bet my car would be quicker with the Boss 302 intake manifold. Just trying to decide whether the cost is justified. Also, I really like the fact that I can open my hood for anyone and the engine bay is 100% factory stock. Swapping to the Boss 302 intake takes the stealth factor down a bit.

 

[wbt]

Most of the dyno graphs I've seen for Boss 302 intake manifolds vs stock shows that the real gains are once you're over 7,000 rpm's. For anyone running their car over 7,000 rpm's often, it's a great choice. For example, I'm still running the stock intake manifold on my car, but given that I have a 5,000 rpm stall, 4.10 gears, off-road H-pipe, and a great Mike Rousch tune shifting my trans at 7,500 rpm's, I'd bet my car would be quicker with the Boss 302 intake manifold. Just trying to decide whether the cost is justified. Also, I really like the fact that I can open my hood for anyone and the engine bay is 100% factory stock. Swapping to the Boss 302 intake takes the stealth factor down a bit.

Sounds like a sales pitch......

With the 4.10 I am not so sure you would be any quicker. Simply put that is the wrong gear/combo for the Boss intake.

The Boss, and CJ for that matter, shine between 6,800 and 7,800 on an N/A setup. Below that RPM the stock intake dominates both.

 

[Johnf78]

Heads and cams are needed to gain full potential out of those intakes. Putting them on a stock coyote puts the intake out of the efficiency range of the motor.
Put a box intake on an old stock fox body. Will it make more hp and be faster sure but you won't see the full potential until all supporting parts are matched. It is all the same with the coyote stuff. Is it worth what you gain with whatever supporting mods you have. That's up to you.

 

[wbt]

Heads and cams are needed to gain full potential out of those intakes. Putting them on a stock coyote puts the intake out of the efficiency range of the motor.
Put a box intake on an old stock fox body. Will it make more hp and be faster sure but you won't see the full potential until all supporting parts are matched. It is all the same with the coyote stuff. Is it worth what you gain with whatever supporting mods you have. That's up to you.

What? Please enlighten us on you experience with these intakes on a Coyote.

 

[Johnf78]

What? Please enlighten us on you experience with these intakes on a Coyote.

None personal. Just a lot of reading on them from ford themselves saying how and why they developed them. The roadrunner already has different cams and when ford made the cobra jet they built to work off the roadrunner. Then they made cams to swap out on that to get the full potential out if the intake. That's all. I was just saying that imo in order to gain full potential all other parts have to be matched just like any well designed motor. Sorry didn't mean to step on any toes.

 

[wbt]

None personal. Just a lot of reading on them from ford themselves saying how and why they developed them. The roadrunner already has different cams and when ford made the cobra jet they built to work off the roadrunner.

No. Ford made the intake for the factory N/A 5.0 Cobra Jet cars which have totally different cams than the Roadrunner.

Then they made cams to swap out on that to get the full potential out if the intake. That's all. I was just saying that imo in order to gain full potential all other parts have to be matched just like any well designed motor. Sorry didn't mean to step on any toes.

At the end of the day to see anything over a Boss intake on a Coyote one needs to swap exhaust cams. For 99.9% of car owners it is just added expense over the Boss. The supporting mods for the driveline are the same for each.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

With the 4.10 I am not so sure you would be any quicker. Simply put that is the wrong gear/combo for the Boss intake.

The Boss, and CJ for that matter, shine between 6,800 and 7,800 on an N/A setup. Below that RPM the stock intake dominates both.

I'm not understanding your comments. My '14 GT has 4.10's, 5,000 rpm stall converter, freer flowing exhaust, and tuning to shift gears at 7,500 rpm. My car is always running at higher rpm's. So, shouldn't a Boss manifold work well with my combo since it shines at higher rpm's?

 

[wbt]

I'm not understanding your comments. My '14 GT has 4.10's, 5,000 rpm stall converter, freer flowing exhaust, and tuning to shift gears at 7,500 rpm. My car is always running at higher rpm's. So, shouldn't a Boss manifold work well with my combo since it shines at higher rpm's?

Why are you/tuner spinning a stock intake car to 7,500 RPM? That is just all kinds of wrong.

Your 4.10's are the main issue with your combo which I have noted time and time again. As mentioned before, you want to keep the car in it's optimal power for as-long-as possible going down the track.

You need to research a couple of things:
1. Where the Boss and CJ intakes make their peak power and from what RPM to what RPM.
2. How much time the car is in each gear going down track and at what RPM.

Your current combo isn't optimal in any form.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Your current combo isn't optimal in any form.

And despite that, my 3800 lb abomination is running 11.5's - 11.6's @ 117 - 118 mph in the 1/4 mile. Do you know of any other NA 5.0L / 6R80's weighing that much that are quicker than my car? Every list I see with quicker examples of NA 5.0L / 6R80's are weight reduced - often 300-400 lbs of weight reduction. In that respect, I'd say my very heavy daily driver is doing very well at the track.

 

[2011/5.0]

3760 lbs .331 gear

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

And despite that, my 3800 lb abomination is running 11.5's - 11.6's @ 117 - 118 mph in the 1/4 mile. Do you know of any other NA 5.0L / 6R80's weighing that much that are quicker than my car? Every list I see with quicker examples of NA 5.0L / 6R80's are weight reduced - often 300-400 lbs of weight reduction. In that respect, I'd say my very heavy daily driver is doing very well at the track.

My car weighs 3750 lbs. You really need to stop with the weight reduction excuses.

 

[2011/5.0]

My setup isnt as good as it could be either. Im just running a 4c im sure that 5c would get me in the 11.10s -11.20s

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

My setup isnt as good as it could be either. Im just running a 4c im sure that 5c would get me in the 11.10s -11.20s

All I'm running is the 4C as well. A 5C would probably have me in the 11.00's-11.10's range.

 

[BleedinBlue]

Lol...another day, another argument about Brian's car.

 

[wbt]

My car weighs 3750 lbs. You really need to stop with the weight reduction excuses.

Nevermind the at or below sea level air he runs his times in.....


Many of us have tried with him....providing supporting data, etc. It boils down to him making his own decisions.

 

[NA-Stang]

I didn't mean to start a pissing contest.

I searched the web for dyno graphs, and found what I was looking for.

Every one I see shows the Boss intake losing nearly 20 hp and loses tq to the stock unit, until about 6000 rpm. Im pretty sure I am forgoing this mod.

 

[wbt]

I didn't mean to start a pissing contest.

I searched the web for dyno graphs, and found what I was looking for.

Every one I see shows the Boss intake losing nearly 20 hp and loses tq to the stock unit, until about 6000 rpm. Im pretty sure I am forgoing this mod.

It's not for everyone.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

It's not for everyone.

Apparently it's not for me either, since the consensus appears to be that my setup won't benefit from it. I'll just stick with the stock manifold.


Sent from SYNC in my '14 Mustang GT...

 

[BleedinBlue]

You two should really just block each other.

 

[wbt]

Apparently it's not for me either, since the consensus appears to be that my setup won't benefit from it. I'll just stick with the stock manifold.


Sent from SYNC in my '14 Mustang GT...

It's your money and you have it all figured out. I am willing to help just about anyone and have provided some pointers and data to you however you have decided on blind faith instead.

Good luck on your endeavors.