Cooling issue or am I crazy?

anothermustangdrvr

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Hello all,

I apologize up front for the long post, just want to try to give as much info and context to hopefully help YOU to help ME!!

So I bought my 2008 GT/CS (automatic) back in September, it was a single owner with 59k miles on it, Carfax showed regular maint on it, consistent low mileage accrual over the years, everything looked good and factory original. It's been an OK car but I naively didn't realize when you buy a 17 yr old car with original parts on it still, a lot of parts are probably past their prime and need replacing. I know the entire suspension system needs replacing and I have those waiting on my kitchen table for me to get to. Please don't ask about replacing the spark plugs, it was a horrible experience like many others have posted! But that is not the issue at hand.

In December I bought one of those little dash mounted OBD Smart gauges that displays certain things, in this case Speed, RPM, ECT Temp and Battery. I've just been paranoid, with it being a fairly old used car, so one of the readings I've focused on has been the ECT temp, and I swear I've never seen that temp go over 204f in the two months before the "incident". I don't drive like a maniac, but have easily hit 90 mph at times, but most driving would be considered city driving on side streets in traffic. I would say the ECT Temp would normally range in the 197-200 range, and only occasionally getting up to that 204. This is December and January in Houston Texas; it's not exactly 90 degrees out but def not cold either, usually 70's.

So two weeks ago I had the "incident". As alluded to above, my suspension is old and gets floaty going over some bumps, divots, expansion joints, etc in Houston, and I bottomed out/smacked the front end of the Mustang twice in about 1 mile doing about 40mph. Got to my destination, checked and no leaks. Did my thing, then checked again in about 2 hrs and no leaks underneath. Temp out was probably in the high 70's, one of the hotter days recently and while driving home the ECT Temp seemed to be running a bit warmer. On the highway, doing 75'ish mph, the ECT was reading 204-206, which was higher than I can ever recall seeing the ECT temp at. Seemed to stabilize, then crept up to 208, then back to 206, then back up to 208. I decided I'd try turning on the heater to high temp/speed and try to get some of the heat out, and I turned off the A/C button, and the temp slowly crept up, to 211, so I exited into a grocery store parking lot. Popped hood, no bubbling or streams of coolant anywhere, but I noticed the radiator fan was not on. Sat there with the car running and started searching forum's and found the great suggestion of turning on the A/C to kick on the Low Speed fan (I was not aware at this time of Low/High speed fan), which it did kick on the low speed fan. So I turned off the car, let it sit for about 20 minutes, turned car on and drove home, and it stayed around the 204 range +/-2.

Obviously started reading more forums, etc, I won't bore you more, but here is what I've replaced, and I am still at the same situation where I never see the radiator fan ever running if the A/C button is not turned on.

  • 40 amp cooling fan fuse & High speed relay (the contacts did not look fried/melted)
  • Radiator fan assembly (plug did not look melted)
  • 180 degree Thermostat
  • ECT Sensor
Yesterday was in the 40's here and I took a decent drive, and it seemed to be running ok, staying around 196 (with a/c on). Dropped wife off at a store, sat in the parking lot and the thing stayed around 198 for 20 minutes or so; while still parked, turned off the a/c, and the thing slowly climbed to 212, where I turned the a/c button back on and it crept back down to 198.

I've dug more into forums trying to find out what is supposed to be the "normal" running temp for the car, but I find answers from 194-200, or 206-220, nothing consistent (I understand individual cars can vary, but that's a nice spread). And trying to find out what temperature the Low/High speed fans kick on is just as confusing. Also, I don't see any engine lights on and the smart gauge can tell you if there are any codes thrown and there is not. Pulling the oil dipstick, i don't see anything that would make me think there is coolant leaking in the engine.

I wish I had the Smart gauge back in September and October when it was stupid hot still, so I had a real frame of reference for temp range. So am I just crazy/paranoid, or what else could I be missing in this? Am I actually not letting it get hot enough for the high speed fan to turn on, as I've never let it get over 212f? I've not actually looked under the car to see if maybe the radiator got damaged, I just assumed it would be leaking. Thoughts or suggestions?

And many thanks in advance for taking your time to help a stranger out!
 

Juice

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Under 220 is fine. I think coolant temp is inferred by the pcm, not measured. Just make sure both fan speeds work. Can you monitor fan speed reqested by pcm on the obd dash?
 

anothermustangdrvr

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Under 220 is fine. I think coolant temp is inferred by the pcm, not measured. Just make sure both fan speeds work. Can you monitor fan speed reqested by pcm on the obd dash?

No this Smart gauge does not show anything regarding fan speeds. I don't want to spend the bucks for one of those really nice OBD2 scanners that allow you to do things like testing on/off of fans, and much more. And yeah to the inferred coolant temp, I read that in my searching, the thing that is messing me up is those 2 months of never seeing that temp over 204. Appreciate the input, thanks!
 

EBABlacknChrome

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My car seems to stay at 194 ish. The bottom of the fuse block maybe melted, it tends to happen there more. That would be the fan deal. Fan could just be bad.
Secondly, you may have a stinking thermostat. Something could have dislodged when hitting that bump.
 
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anothermustangdrvr

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My car seems to stay at 194 ish. The bottom of the fuse block maybe melted, it tins to happen there more. That would be the fan deal. Fan could just be bad.
Secondly, you may have a stinking thermostat. Something could have dislodged when hitting that bump.
So when i replaced the relay, the top didn't look melted, but I didn't get around to checking the bottom half: I'll check that next. And I just replaced the thermostat on Saturday, so hopefully it's not that.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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So am I just crazy/paranoid, or what else could I be missing in this? Am I actually not letting it get hot enough for the high speed fan to turn on, as I've never let it get over 212f? I've not actually looked under the car to see if maybe the radiator got damaged, I just assumed it would be leaking. Thoughts or suggestions?
You can relax. The factory ECU settings for the electric cooling fan are as follows:

Low speed: On 216*F Off 208*F
High speed: On 228*F Off 224*F

Therefore your engine didn't get hot enough to trigger the fan to switch on.
Also for reference, the OEM thermostat opening temperature is 192*F.
 

anothermustangdrvr

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You can relax. The factory ECU settings for the electric cooling fan are as follows:

Low speed: On 216*F Off 208*F
High speed: On 228*F Off 224*F

Therefore your engine didn't get hot enough to trigger the fan to switch on.
Also for reference, the OEM thermostat opening temperature is 192*F.
I appreciate the reply, I've seen many many of your comments/answers on this forum and appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge.

If I may ask you another question for clarification:
- Those temperatures mentioned in your above post, is that what the ECT sensor is reporting, or is the inferred coolant temperature (ECT temp minus some number)? As I can easily view the ECT temp with my gauge, when the ECT gets to 216 or so the fan should kick on right (I've never seen the ECT temp get that high before)?

And the OEM thermostat i did know already thanks to other forum posts I found in my searching. I replaced the OEM one with a 180* one as the other option at Autozone was a 195*, and I thought I'd err on the lower side.

Many thanks!!
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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The 4.6 3V engine doesn't actually have a coolant temp. sensor. Instead it has a cylinder head temperature sensor that's screwed into the passenger side head. Because it isn't exposed to coolant, it provides more reliable readings since it isn't prone to the fluctuations that can occur if there's any trapped air in the cooling system. The CHT sensor infers the coolant temp. and sends its signal to the ECU. A scanner that's plugged into the under-dash OBD 2 diagnostic port can pick up the CHT temperature signal from the ECU and display it in real time. As long as the CHT remains below 216*F (assuming OEM tune), the cooling fan should stay off unless you turn on the AC.
 
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anothermustangdrvr

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The 4.6 3V engine doesn't actually have a coolant temp. sensor. Instead it has a cylinder head temperature sensor that's screwed into the passenger side head. Because it isn't exposed to coolant, it provides more reliable readings since it isn't prone to the fluctuations that can occur if there's any trapped air in the cooling system. The CHT sensor infers the coolant temp. and sends its signal to the ECU. A scanner that's plugged into the under-dash OBD 2 diagnostic port can pick up the CHT temperature signal from the ECU and display it in real time. As long as the CHT remains below 216*F (assuming OEM tune), the cooling fan should stay off unless you turn on the AC.
Yeah it's an OEM tune, this thing was all original when i bought it. And you answered my question perfectly, I'll take it for a spin with the a/c off and once the ECT/CHT gets to 216* or so, check to see if the fan is running. Appreciate the information, hopefully it was just me not knowing better and at least I now have less 17 year old parts in the thing!
 

86GT351

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You never mentioned if there are any trouble codes. Even though the CEL is not on does not mean something might not be stored in the system.
 

Chief Ironhorse

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Yesterday was in the 40's here and I took a decent drive, and it seemed to be running ok, staying around 196 (with a/c on). Dropped wife off at a store, sat in the parking lot and the thing stayed around 198 for 20 minutes or so; while still parked, turned off the a/c, and the thing slowly climbed to 212, where I turned the a/c button back on and it crept back down to 198.
just curious, if it was 40 outside how cold wasit in your car with the HVAC on after 20 minutes??
 

Autokyrios

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If the overheat warning is coming on, that's one thing. If not, it's less of a concern.

Some have probably already mentioned but you radiate heat from the engine when you run the climate control above the ambient. So when you turn that off, it loses a source of heat dissipation and will climb up a little.

If you've done anything with the radiator, it's possible you have an air bubble trapped somewhere, but I don't think that would be as consistent in effect.
 

anothermustangdrvr

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Well, I think I can chalk this whole ordeal up to having too much information is not always the best thing when you don't have all the knowledge on what that info should be!

So last 2 weekends have taken it out for nice long drives (over 1hr, mostly country roads with occasional lights) and the thing is running beautifully. The outside temps were in the low 80's, so not terribly hot but still far from cool, and the CHT reading never got over 201, and that was due to sitting at a red light for a minute or two. Just driving along, with the A/C on of course, the CHT just bounced between 197 and 199. I still haven't tried with the A/C off, as being in Houston you typically have it running all year long, maybe one day i'll test that.

I'm fine with being crazy/paranoid, and the glass half full part of me says that at least I have some new parts on that should last the foreseeable future.

Thanks all for your responses!
 

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