Lowered On 20's? Post Your Pics!

[bujeezus]

Caster/camber plates weren't necessary in my case either and I'm lowered 2". I've got my struts spun 180* and camber bolts and my alignment is spot on.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Caster/camber plates weren't necessary in my case either and I'm lowered 2". I've got my struts spun 180* and camber bolts and my alignment is spot on.

Consider yourself fortunate then.. In my case it took spinning the GT500 strut mounts 180* and also maxing out the adj settings of the camber bolts in order to get within factory alignment specs of -1.1 degrees camber.. And I'm lowered by just 1.3 inches with Eibach pro kit springs..

 

[Gabe]

I'm not using any camber bolts, my GT500 mounts are installed normally, and my camber was at about -1.7, no odd tire wear, all good for 3 years

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Gabe ! What lowering springs do you have again and how far is your 13 lowered ?


-Rocky

 

[Gabe]

Gabe ! What lowering springs do you have again and how far is your 13 lowered ?


-Rocky

Steeda Sport in the front, with GT500 mounts and '05-'09 Koni yellows which in this kind of installation supposedly make the springs sit about a 1/4" lower than whatever they're rated for.
Plus the extra 50-100 lbs that the supercharger kit added on, I'd say I'm about 1.5-2.0" lower than stock in the front.
I can take a measurement tomorrow ...

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

So if your lowered approx 1.5-2.0" with the added weight of your S/C, I'd say your doing pretty damn good at -1.7 camber without having to spin the GT500 mounts 180* and especially without having to use adjustable camber bolts

 

[Gabe]

So if your lowered approx 1.5-2.0" with the added weight of your S/C, I'd say your doing pretty damn good at -1.7 camber without having to spin the GT500 mounts 180* and especially without having to use adjustable camber bolts

Yeah I haven't re-checked the alignment since the blower went on, so there's a chance it's got more negative camber in it these days.
I'm hoping to eventually put some GT500 springs in it in the front, which will raise the front a half-inch or so.

 

[bujeezus]

Consider yourself fortunate then.. In my case it took spinning the GT500 strut mounts 180* and also maxing out the adj settings of the camber bolts in order to get within factory alignment specs of -1.1 degrees camber.. And I'm lowered by just 1.3 inches with Eibach pro kit springs..

Yeah, right? My alignment guy said I didn't really need the camber bolts unless I wanted it to be perfect.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Yeah I haven't re-checked the alignment since the blower went on, so there's a chance it's got more negative camber in it these days.
I'm hoping to eventually put some GT500 springs in it in the front, which will raise the front a half-inch or so.

I really wouldn't worry about it Gabe, as I highly doubt the weight of a blower is going to end up putting your negative camber beyond factory specs.. With my Saleen blower and Eibach pro springs, my camber is -1.1 degrees which is well within factory specs.. However I would have your alignment re-checked anyhow just to be on the safe side for your own piece of mind..

Yeah, right? My alignment guy said I didn't really need the camber bolts unless I wanted it to be perfect.

That's true ! As long as your within factory specs, you should be just fine.. My alignment tech said, if I wanted my camber to be perfect at optimal specs I would need caster/camber plates in order to get an optimal 1.0 camber, but I'm not going to go through the expense of adding CC plates with a -1.1 negative camber which is well within factory specs to begin with anyhow..

 

[mavisky]

Besides a little additional static camber helps with handling if you're willing to make the small sacrifice in tire wear. It's toe that affects wear more than camber in all honesty.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

This ^^^^^^^^

 

[mavisky]

So fitting 10" wide wheels on the front with a concave face and trying to clear Brembos is complicated. Hoping that with a little camber and some fender rolling we can make this happen.

 

[bujeezus]

Are those 10.5"?

 

[mavisky]

10" with an aggressive offset and deep concave face, without Brembos I'd already have the wheels and tires mounted balanced and be rolling.

 

[Gabe]

Fenders are rolled from the factory on '05+ Mustangs.
If you're talking about maybe flaring out the fender lip, be very careful with that, paint can crack, lots of places won't do it.

 

[Shotokan1509]

Who's squeezed bit more than 275/35 on 9.5's all around? Or even just the rear, slightly staggered... not a ton like a 285/35 or 295/35

 

[mavisky]

The picture in my signature is 285/30-20's on 20x10" +48MM American Muscle AMR's. There's absolutely room for a 285/35 or even a 295/35 and they clear big brakes.

 

[Shotokan1509]

The picture in my signature is 285/30-20's on 20x10" +48MM American Muscle AMR's. There's absolutely room for a 285/35 or even a 295/35 and they clear big brakes.

It's more my Roush's are only 9.5" wide, the 275/35 Coopers look tiny bit narrow on the wheel, and miss the 295/40/18's I used to run but don't think I want to go path of having these wheels widened

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Consider 275/40/20 or 285/30/20.. Either should provide a taller sidewall and slightly more width

 

[Gabe]

Who's squeezed bit more than 275/35 on 9.5's all around? Or even just the rear, slightly staggered... not a ton like a 285/35 or 295/35

Are you asking strictly 20" wheels, or any 9.5"-wide wheels?

Cuz I put my rear 305/40/18 DRs on the front of my car last summer for an autocross session, I have pics if interested.