Flywheel help

pass1over

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First time owning a car long enough that it needs a clutch replacement, except for my 66 I guess. I got an exedy Mach 500 clutch on the way, scored it for super cheap. But I need some help with a flywheel.

I read conflicting information about whether you need to stick with same brand flywheel as clutch or not. I wouldn't mind putting a lightweight flywheel in there, it's a strictly street-driven car, full bolt on mods minus cams. Are there a lot of cons with going with an aluminum versus a lightened steel version?

Which lightweight flywheel would you recommend to use with an exedy Mach 500?
 

GlassTop09

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First time owning a car long enough that it needs a clutch replacement, except for my 66 I guess. I got an exedy Mach 500 clutch on the way, scored it for super cheap. But I need some help with a flywheel.

I read conflicting information about whether you need to stick with same brand flywheel as clutch or not. I wouldn't mind putting a lightweight flywheel in there, it's a strictly street-driven car, full bolt on mods minus cams. Are there a lot of cons with going with an aluminum versus a lightened steel version?

Which lightweight flywheel would you recommend to use with an exedy Mach 500?
My 2 cents...................

Personally, I would go w\ the Exedy HP CM Lightened Steel flywheel, not so much because it is an Exedy product to match your Exedy Mach 500 Clutch kit, but because of its design as it is the only design that the center section is an actual fan using pitched slotting that promotes good airflow into the clutch disc area, thru the disc's slots & springs into the PP & out thru the PP spring fingers to effectively cool the flywheel, clutch disc & PP mating surfaces to maintain effective clutch performance much akin to how brake pads to rotors are optimized.

This is the main reason why I chose to go w\ a full Exedy flywheel, single organic clutch disc & PP package.......you'll find other designs have holes in this center section of their flywheel designs but none of them are specifically designed to create airflow draft.....only by happenstance from air convection properties. I chose the Mach 500 Stage 3 Grooved Clutch kit for the slotted PP pressure ring that increases clutch bite as well as lessens clutch bite fade by allowing the gasses a path to flow away from the friction surfaces while clutch disc is slipped during engagement......the same as slotted rotors do w\ brakes.

In the end your choice but this is why I'm making a recommendation for this Exedy flywheel as you asked.

Hope this helps.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Run the Exedy lightweight steel flywheel IMHO. Ran them in two cars with the Mach 500 setup. They worked great on the 3650 Tremec and on the MT-82 Git-rag (thats not a mispell). Both were 500+ RWHP setups. Best damn clutch setup I ever ran. In fact I ripped a McLeod RST twin disc out and replaced it with the Exedy setup on the 2005 less than 9 months after I put the RST in. Hated that clutch. I later test drove a car in NOrht Carolina and as soon as I pulled out in it, I looked the guy and said, "This car has a McLeod in it". He acknowledged it did. I drove it around the block pulled back in and walked away. I hate McLeod.twin discs. Your heel in in your nut sac on clutch engagement before the car will move. I like a closer to the floor stock release. The Mach 500 and matching flywheel match that release feel.
 

pass1over

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If I can retain most of the stock feel, release location and leg required to disengage, that would be great. It's my DD and I don't want anything that's a pain to drive in stop and go traffic.

The cooling feature of the exedy flywheel is a nice feature. I'll probably end up going the exedy route. Also, use nothing but an OEM slave cylinder, correct?
 

pass1over

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I also need to get dowel pins ( I guess you can't reuse them?) and bolts. I read conflicting information about this dowel/bolt kit .... M-6397-B46

CJ Pony website says 05-10, but Summit says 11-17. Fords website says ... For use with Ford Performance and production flywheels on 4.6L and 5.0L Coyote engines to align and attach the 11" 6 or 9 bolt diaphragm-style pressure plate to the flywheel.
 

redfirepearlgt

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If I can retain most of the stock feel, release location and leg required to disengage, that would be great. It's my DD and I don't want anything that's a pain to drive in stop and go traffic.

The cooling feature of the exedy flywheel is a nice feature. I'll probably end up going the exedy route. Also, use nothing but an OEM slave cylinder, correct?

most exedy kits come complete with replacement hydro to cylinder, unless you are dealing with am who quotes a kit without one. so ask....do not assume it comes with one. action is mildly heavier but not stupid like an old school centerforce dual friction upgrade on a cable setup in an edge mustang. i ran the kit and their flywheel and nothing more aside from upgrading the feedline while in there. used frpp on 05 and the jpc braided line on the 13. great either way.
 

pass1over

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action is mildly heavier but not stupid like an old school centerforce dual friction upgrade on a cable setup in an edge mustang. .


I know exactly what that's like, I have a HD RAM (i think thats what I went with, it was a long time ago) clutch in the T5 thats in my 66 mustang, operated off a cable and quadrant. Definitely get a little bit of a leg workout with that one.

This clutch does not come with a slave cylinder, but I seem to remember reading that a lot of people have had issues with aftermarket ones and suggest keeping it OEM. I will definitely be putting a braided line on it while I'm in there, just to do it all at once.
 

RED09GT

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I had the mach 500/lightweight flywheel combo before I did my TR6060 swap and it was excellent. A bit more pedal pressure than stock but not like most aftermarket fox body clutches.
I had a mcleod RST when I did the TR6060 swap and it didn't work out. It had the floater plate rattle, it didn't disengage until I was at the top of the pedal, and it couldn't take the heat of drag racing-it would overheat and not allow you to get the car into gear until after it had cooled back down. It sucks having to sit on the return road for a half hour just to drive the car back to the pits after a run where you had to coast the back half of the track because it wouldn't go into gear.
I had it rebuilt to an RXT clutch and there was no difference in driveability-I find the RXT to actually be better. The floater plate rattle isn't as frequent but the high pedal is still there. The high pedal sucks for nudging the car up an uphill driveway.
 

redfirepearlgt

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exedy kits that come with the slave are stock design. if yours does not, pick up the stock ford or exedy equal. they work fine. just dont risk reusing old. its been done, but you wouldnt reuse the t.o. bearing on your 66 swap....same, same here.
 

pass1over

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I wouldn't dream of re-using the old one, that's just asking to pull the trans again, lol

I just realized an issue that I don't know if I should start a new thread or not. One of the main reasons I'm switching to aftermarket clutch is the high rpm lockouts, I'm just tired of it. 4th seems to be the worse. Anything above like 4500 and it'll grind, if I let it wind down, it shifts fine. The 1-2 shift got better with the MGW, but it still isn't the easiest of shifts. I notice it TONS more after driving my T5 yesterday, every shift is like butter.

However, I noticed something today. Clutch in and rolling, I can pull the shifter handle back into 4th, and then go a little further to where I can feel like gears riding on each other or interfering. 4th is the only gear this happens in. Every other gear when you pull it back, it stops against a solid stop and you can't go further. But not 4th. What's going on here? Is this the shift fork in that gear going out or what?
 
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pass1over

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getting a new pilot bearing and I see there are 2 options
Ford Performance Roller Pilot Bearing
Ford Performance High Load Roller Pilot Bearing
What's the difference?
 

redfirepearlgt

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I wouldn't dream of re-using the old one, that's just asking to pull the trans again, lol

I just realized an issue that I don't know if I should start a new thread or not. One of the main reasons I'm switching to aftermarket clutch is the high rpm lockouts, I'm just tired of it. 4th seems to be the worse. Anything above like 4500 and it'll grind, if I let it wind down, it shifts fine. The 1-2 shift got better with the MGW, but it still isn't the easiest of shifts. I notice it TONS more after driving my T5 yesterday, every shift is like butter.

However, I noticed something today. Clutch in and rolling, I can pull the shifter handle back into 4th, and then go a little further to where I can feel like gears riding on each other or interfering. 4th is the only gear this happens in. Every other gear when you pull it back, it stops against a solid stop and you can't go further. But not 4th. What's going on here? Is this the shift fork in that gear going out or what?

Likely internal. I sent you a link on the thread you started. May as well have the tranny gone through or upgraded while its out. Otherwise its just coming out again. I ran an MGW on my 13 setup that made 568RWHP, ran the Exedy Mach 500 setup on it we have discussed along with the upgrade feed line and never had a an issue shifting up to 7300 RPM. On the very rare case that I missed a shift it was my fault and nothing with regard to the setup. The tranny was stock with stock fluid in it other than the shifter(mgw 1st gen), clutch and feed line upgrades. The latest MGW shifter has to make the tranny even more fun to roll through the gears.
 

Juice

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not stupid like an old school centerforce dual friction upgrade on a cable setup in an edge mustang. .
I have two of these dual friction clutches. One in my 91, w/cable. Centerforce states "stock feel, 90% more holding power. If you think they are stupid heavy,
There was something wrong with the install, or it was not a centerforce clutch in there.
 

JC SSP

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Hi Juice,

I am with you... I use a DF CenterForce, SFI billet flywheel with adjustable quadrant on my 87' X-FHP SSP and it has a nice consistent pedal and perfect engage/disengage when shifting my Liberty-pro T-5 gearbox. I have had it in there for years and it has yet to fail me. OH, I also "power-shift" every time I run it hard. Thats accelerator to held to the floor and just engage the clutch enough to grab the next gear! Blowen a few 3rd gear clusters in my time, hence the Liberty pro-shifted T-5. LOL LOL LOL

I know there are much more advanced & exotic clutch/pressure plates out there, but they are pricey $$$$
 

redfirepearlgt

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... If you think they are stupid heavy, There was something wrong with the install, or it was not a centerforce clutch in there.

i think it was stupid heavy. and it was installed correctly. yes it was a centerforce dual friction clutch. everyone claims "near stock feel" in the clutch world just like everyone claims "no drone" in the muffler world. glad you like them. i found the setup much heavier in the 2002 than the stock clutch. you just have a beefy leg and a strong sense of brand loyalty. its nothing to get butt hurt over.
 

Juice

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i think it was stupid heavy. and it was installed correctly. yes it was a centerforce dual friction clutch. everyone claims "near stock feel" in the clutch world just like everyone claims "no drone" in the muffler world. glad you like them. i found the setup much heavier in the 2002 than the stock clutch. you just have a beefy leg and a strong sense of brand loyalty. its nothing to get butt hurt over.
No sir.
Went from stock 4.0 to coyote w/Centerforce. Pedal feels absolutely stock.
My brand loyalty is for chatter free operation of CF clutches. ;)
 

RED09GT

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After having to go to some extreme measures to remove a failed pilot bearing from a Kellogg crankshaft, I'd be inclined to spend the extra $15 for the high load bearing.
I think the one that failed was a parts store jobber due to a availability at the time.
 

Pentalab

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My 2 cents...................

Personally, I would go w\ the Exedy HP CM Lightened Steel flywheel, not so much because it is an Exedy product to match your Exedy Mach 500 Clutch kit, but because of its design as it is the only design that the center section is an actual fan using pitched slotting that promotes good airflow into the clutch disc area, thru the disc's slots & springs into the PP & out thru the PP spring fingers to effectively cool the flywheel, clutch disc & PP mating surfaces to maintain effective clutch performance much akin to how brake pads to rotors are optimized.

This is the main reason why I chose to go w\ a full Exedy flywheel, single organic clutch disc & PP package.......you'll find other designs have holes in this center section of their flywheel designs but none of them are specifically designed to create airflow draft.....only by happenstance from air convection properties. I chose the Mach 500 Stage 3 Grooved Clutch kit for the slotted PP pressure ring that increases clutch bite as well as lessens clutch bite fade by allowing the gasses a path to flow away from the friction surfaces while clutch disc is slipped during engagement......the same as slotted rotors do w\ brakes.

In the end your choice but this is why I'm making a recommendation for this Exedy flywheel as you asked.

Hope this helps.

What's to stop dirt, dust, and misc debris from getting sucked into the airstream ? Or is it even a potential issue.
 

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