Racer47

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You can't put fixed mounted calipers on a stock c-clip rear end. There is end play in the axles that knock the pads back and you end up with a very long pedal.
 
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Thanks, great info on brake upgrade. I wanted to put my front calipers on my rear since I was able to find some used Saleen front calipers and rotors to put on the front. My Saleen S281 was a low option and came with the stock GT fronts and rears. Been thinking about what to do with the rears to fill the 20 inch wheels.
Thanks, but
Unfortunately - that is not how it works lol, cant do that - 2 options are - the bracket and 14 inch gt 500 brake as i mentioned or brake kit from willwood or other brand with hub and everything else
 

OX1

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That won’t work. Front and rear calipers aren’t interchangeable that way. You’d also have no parking brake. You can however get rear brackets for the rear calipers from LMR to extend the calipers out and use larger rotors. That would fill in the gap in your wheel barrel. I was thinking about doing this myself however I already had new rear rotors to go on and the price for larger rear rotors was too much $$$ for my blood. Also I don’t track the car so the extra heat dissipation wasn’t worth it for a street car.

You could leave the stock caliper for emerg brake only and make new brackets for other calipers for the rear, but you can't use front S197 (or S550) calipers in rear, as rear rotor is way thinner.
 

OX1

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Im running oem s197 one and everything works great

Depends on your preference. I thought the stock brakes felt mushy and had too much travel, front Brembos make it worse. They work great, ONCE you get enough pedal travel in them.
 

JC SSP

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Can someone confirm that 17" factory Ford Bullitt/Funnel spoke style wheels will fit 2013-2014 GT500 13.8" rear disc brake upgrade (regardless of where it's the simple extension bracket or more complex caliper mounting flange upgrade)?

Per LMR: Vehicle Fitment
  • Ford Mustang - 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
  • When running the 13.8" GT500 rear rotors, you will need to run 17" or larger rear wheels.
Before anyone flips out... YES I have searched this forum and nothing popped up.
 
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Can someone confirm that 17" factory Ford Bullitt/Funnel spoke style wheels will fit 2013-2014 GT500 13.8" rear disc brake upgrade (regardless of where it's the simple extension bracket or more complex caliper mounting flange upgrade)?

Per LMR: Vehicle Fitment
  • Ford Mustang - 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
  • When running the 13.8" GT500 rear rotors, you will need to run 17" or larger rear wheels.
Before anyone flips out... YES I have searched this forum and nothing popped up.

Sorry, not sure about just the rear rotor upgrade if that is what you referring to, you can take a measure of 13.8 - diameter of the stock rotor = to the how far caliper will offset comparing to stock (if you keep stock caliper) then compare it to the space you have currently left for clearence. As for the fronts - there is no way in hell they will fit with the 17 wheel
 

wdrlaw

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Total brain lapse. I have all the bits (they are freaking HUGE, like playing with Tonka toys after Matchbox cars). I can't figure out how the spring clips fit with the pins and pads. Can someone post a pic to help me out? Thanks.
 

wdrlaw

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I have all the bits for this upgrade but I can't get them to fit together. I sourced the clips and pins from LMR, using a part # (LRS-18225) the OP linked. I also bought Hawk pads. The pins and pads fit perfectly inside the Brembo calipers, but for the life of me I cannot get the anti-rattle clip on. The crosspiece on the short (lower) end fouls on the pad ears. While I am no professional mechanic, this is far from my first brake install. I could be a klutz and just don't know what I'm doing, but it seems like a pure fitment issue. The Ford Racing/Motorcraft hardware kit is $50+ per wheel. Before I "spring" for the genuine parts I'd like to know if anyone else encountered this problem.

What's the verdict? Am I:
  • a dumbass for buying cheap chinese parts?
  • a numbnut who clearly has no clue what he's doing?
  • neither--errybody has this issue with LMR.
Thanks as always for the wealth of info on this forum.
 

DieHarder

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Provide pics. Likely that you need to move back/remove the pins before attempting to put the clips on. If you need step by step see below: Good luck


 

wdrlaw

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Clip goes in great without pads. With pads, cross piece deflects considerably against the pad ears. Seating the pins may help, but will not eliminate the deflection.
 

DieHarder

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Again, pics will help explain what you're dealing with. Are you sure the pads are the correct size?
 
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Clip goes in great without pads. With pads, cross piece deflects considerably against the pad ears. Seating the pins may help, but will not eliminate the deflection.
Please post the pics, i had no issue with mine just 2 pins that hold a pad is all i had, wear clips were on the bads already with metal backings, if you are reffering to the the top piece that locks the pins on top of caliper, it has to be under pressure to keep the pins locked in place
 
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Just wanted to update this with some information that others may find useful. I have the 19x8.5 and 19x10 AMR wheel package and these calipers will not clear the wheels. Depth wise, everything looks great. The issue is the diameter on the wheel at the end of the calipers. Any suggestions on what to do, other than larger wheels.

Edit: I know the caliper is on the wrong side and bleeders should be facing up. I had the other caliper on and had the same result, I only tried this to see if there was a difference.

9E184F6E-4A86-46D7-B21A-F08711AB6740.jpeg

CE151BCF-BE18-45A1-94F2-75EBAD3C268F.jpeg

721FF1B1-47A9-4EB9-B8DE-4CCDBA713A5C.jpeg
 

DieHarder

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If you want to run those wheels you're going to have to figure out what size spacer will give 2-3mm clearance between the caliper & wheel (I ran an 8mm spacer w/one set of wheels; and a 12mm w/another). You'll also need to decide whether to use extended studs or extended lugs. I used extended lugs (easier) but would recommend extended studs in most cases (which is a better/ stronger setup IMO). Just ensure the spacer is appropriate for the car (5 x 114.3 w/70.5 CB & hubcentric lip).

Hubcentric spacers
s-l500 (1).jpg

Extended lugs
s-l501.jpg

I don't use a spacer these days because I found a set of wheels with the right offset that fit without spacers but still have them in case I want to use the other wheels in the future.
 
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I guess the part that confuses me is I’m not sure what good a wheel spacer will do for me. Even if I pull the wheel away, it’s dragging on the inside of the wheel. I believe I need a larger diameter. There’s plenty of depth to clear the front side of the caliper. It’s hitting on the ID of my wheel.
 

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