Intake Center line degree?

[Racer45]

Sorry I don’t know how to read a cam card. Can anybody tell me what the intake centerline degree is supposed to be for this card. I have my left bank all assembled with the degree kit tools on cylinder 6 and will be degree-ing my cams first thing in the morning. If anybody could verify this for me it would be much appreciated. My guess is 110.5 but I don’t know for sure I thought it would be plain as day but after I took a look at it I realized I have no idea what it’s supposed to be ‍

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Here's your answer:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Mustang_3V_Camshafts.xls

The lobe separation angle for that cam is 112 degrees, and the intake centerline at full advance is 102 degrees.

 

[Racer45]

Right on Dino thanks a lot man. Your a legend. Tried calling comp this morning but they were obviously closed.

I’m at a stand still now anyways. Bought the MMR degree wheel kit and the spark plug stop is the wrong size

Trying to figure out what I’m going to do now. May need to chop up and weld one of my new autolites lol

 

[Racer45]

Just wanted to say thanks again. Both banks where @ 104.25.

advanced both by 2 degrees to get as close as possible to the recommended 102 deg. So both are @ 102.25

Hopefully I’ll be in contact with this Lito guy by next weekend

 

[Racer45]

 

[JC SSP]

Looking good buddy!

Keep us informed on your progress.

 

[Racer45]

Looking good buddy!

Keep us informed on your progress.

Thanks man! I’ll be posting some befor and after dyno sheets of the 127400 cams after I get my tuning done with Lito + dyno pull video

 

[whitmanink]

im confused .
how can you "degree" the camshaft if the cam has a pin on it to set where it sits in the vvt solenoid? than u line up timing marks?

i have mutha thumpers with locouts,, i didnt degree my cam ? just set up in the timing ?

should i do this as well ? or is this for a certain cam you do this?

please excuse my ignorance on this topic as i know very very little about it

 

[Racer45]

im confused .
how can you "degree" the camshaft if the cam has a pin on it to set where it sits in the vvt solenoid? than u line up timing marks?

i have mutha thumpers with locouts,, i didnt degree my cam ? just set up in the timing ?

should i do this as well ? or is this for a certain cam you do this?

please excuse my ignorance on this topic as i know very very little about

You need adjustable crank gears for the 3v to degree the cams. Company called “trick flow” makes them.

I’m no engine or tuning expert but I wouldn’t say you absolutely need to degree them but when putting in aftermarket cam shafts or heads it’s never a bad idea to do it. To minimize any timing inconsistencies between the 2 banks. And also reduce your chances of piston to valve collisions also helps to know so tuners can tune your car more accurately and make it so it’s running optimally. In most cases should squeeze out a little more HP to
I’ve attached a screen shot from summit of the adjustable gears you would need to do the job

 

[Midlife Crises]

Just wanted to say thanks again. Both banks where @ 104.25.

advanced both by 2 degrees to get as close as possible to the recommended 102 deg. So both are @ 102.25

Hopefully I’ll be in contact with this Lito guy by next weekend

Do you plan to pin or weld the gears together after you have them set? The stock woodruff key does not fully support both gears.

 

[lwarrior1016]

I would also do a cranking compression test bank to bank before putting it all together. I have degreed a couple sets the were perfect on paper, and then compression was different bank to bank.

I changed the cam position based on compression numbers and the engine ran great.

 

[Racer45]

Do you plan to pin or weld the gears together after you have them set? The stock woodruff key does not fully support both gears.

I’ll be welding them together once I’m 100% satisfied with my choice. But I may also just throw the stock crank gear back on it the difference was only 2 degrees and both where cut identically. ( no inconsistency between the 2 )

 

[Racer45]

So spoke with a comp cams representative this morning on my way into work and told him the cam parts number and what I got for intake centerline of 104.25 on both. He wasn’t able to tell me what they recommend degreeing the cams to but stated for my car and it’s intended racing type purposes he said to degree them to 102.25 would be the most optimal position to mitigate as much torque loss in the lower rpm range.

So may just keep it at the 102 mark and weld those gears together

 

[Midlife Crises]

When I welded the gears together I bolted them to a spare crankshaft so they were perfectly in line. They shrunk after welding to a light interference fit and needed a puller to remove. There was no problem tapping the gear on the new crank with a plastic mallet.

 

[Racer45]

When I welded the gears together I bolted them to a spare crankshaft so they were perfectly in line. They shrunk after welding to a light interference fit and needed a puller to remove. There was no problem tapping the gear on the new crank with a plastic mallet.

yeah was a little worried about something like that

My plan is to measure the run out on the gears, take em off bevel the inside edges throw em back on the crank spray some anti spatter on them then cover the surrounding area and clamp them together and throw a few tacks. Take them off and stick them in a vise and just take my time making short quick passes and allow it to cool off In between.

But if you say It shrunk on you I might do test fits on the crank in between every few passes.

I'll measure the run out again once I put them back on to make sure I didn't accidentally warp them.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I’m running an Eagle crank so I used the stock crank as a jig. Once I found the settings for the gears I slid them on the stock crank snout (with key in place of corse) and used a sleeve, large washer and the damper bolt to securely clamp the gears in place on the crank. I think the sleeve was 1 1/2” thin wall conduit about 3” long. Using a Tig I made 1/2 to 3/4” welds apposing each other until it was fully welded. When it cooled I could not pull it off by hand. It came off very easy with a small 2 jaw puller. Going on the new crank I used the sleeve and a plastic mallet and simply tapped it on.