Help me spend $250 or less on my car . . .

[Brn N Rubr]

Current mods are as follows:
JLT
CMDP
Steeda under drive pullies (awaiting arrival)
Comp Mutha Thumpr cams (awaiting arrival)
Pypes long tubes (awaiting arrival)
Pypes axle-back
Hurst shifter
Eibach Pro-Kit
Steeda billet strut tower brace
CS rear bumper
Shelby GT billet grille
Xcal3

My guess is rear suspension next. I just want to run 12s on regular street tires. Shouldn't be too difficult. What do you guys/gals think!?

 

[Steedman07]

Lower control arms..

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Better shocks

 

[Greg Hazlett]

UPR has the rad delete brace for $80 if you are comfortable with removing the sway bar; if not I think BMR/Steeda makes one that allows you to keep the sway bar but use a lighter rad brace if you want to reduce nose weight.

 

[Brn N Rubr]

Wow! Three different suggestions right out of the box. I am most definitely not a fan of removing the front sway bar. I like to take turns too much. Keep the suggestions coming!

 

[WarFords]

I would do lower control arms and relocation brackets! We stock both BMR and Steeda.

 

[Bingo]

I'd say shocks and/or LCAs...but shocks will run you more than $250.

 

[Brn N Rubr]

I have been reading about the relocation brackets. What exactly is their purpose?

 

[blk281gt]

Why not just get drag radials ? you are going to need them anyway and they are fine on the street.

 

[Liberty911]

Adjustable Pan Hard and Brace will be required with the Eibach Pro Springs. Struts and shocks, camber/caster plates, LCA and relocation bracket should also be on your list of future mods for the suspension.

 

[Brn N Rubr]

Adjustable Pan Hard and Brace will be required with the Eibach Pro Springs. Struts and shocks, camber/caster plates, LCA and relocation bracket should also be on your list of future mods for the suspension.

Required, eh? I have about 20,000 miles since the install with no unusual tire wear issue. Maybe you're referring to a different set of springs. These are less aggressive than the Sportlines. Only lowered the car 1.25"/1.50" (measured with a tape measure before and after).

 

[BLKS197]

Lower control arms are a great bang for your buck

 

[Ken04]

Required, eh? I have about 20,000 miles since the install with no unusual tire wear issue. Maybe you're referring to a different set of springs. These are less aggressive than the Sportlines. Only lowered the car 1.25"/1.50" (measured with a tape measure before and after).

did you measure the side to side shift of your rear end after you lowered the rear ? That's what the adj panhard bars compensates for. You don't have to have it, unless you don't mind your rear end not being square with the front end. Required ? probably not. But I think the poster was saying required only if you want to track straight. Usually over an inch of drop will kick the rear end over to the driver's side. Do a search here and see how to measure.

 

[WarFords]

The relocation brackets help transfer weight properly to the rear of the car by moving the intant center. This really helps a car thats been lowered launch better!

 

[Brn N Rubr]

did you measure the side to side shift of your rear end after you lowered the rear ? That's what the adj panhard bars compensates for. You don't have to have it, unless you don't mind your rear end not being square with the front end. Required ? probably not. But I think the poster was saying required only if you want to track straight. Usually over an inch of drop will kick the rear end over to the driver's side. Do a search here and see how to measure.

Okay, cool, thanks. He did use the word required, but maybe didn't actually mean it. Thanks for all the good info guys! Keep it coming!

 

[Bingo]

did you measure the side to side shift of your rear end after you lowered the rear ? That's what the adj panhard bars compensates for. You don't have to have it, unless you don't mind your rear end not being square with the front end. Required ? probably not. But I think the poster was saying required only if you want to track straight. Usually over an inch of drop will kick the rear end over to the driver's side. Do a search here and see how to measure.

Unless it's waaaaaay off, you won't really notice it unless you have some serious rubber in the rear.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Shocks ARE not more than $250; just bought KONI SRT shocks for $75 each.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Why not just get drag radials ? you are going to need them anyway and they are fine on the street.

DR's are going to be more than $250 aren't they?

 

[Tre06GTP1SC]

DR's are going to be more than $250 aren't they?

He could get at least one drag radial.

I would go with LCA's.

 

[Liberty911]

But I think the poster was saying required only if you want to track straight.

I meant "required" as in needed to re-center the body after lowering. Sorry for the confusion.