Recent content by KonaMustangGT

Looks like re-upholstered Fox-body seats. Fender, grille, shaker hood scoop emblems don't match those of other '03-'04 Mach 1s. I'm not 100% certain, but I don't see the cut out for the exhaust in the rear bumper cover (without it, it's a V6 cover). Most likely just a modified '99-00. I...

Black with the grease fitting. That looks like an aftermarket link, the OEM ones are cast aluminum and sealed. If the threads are stripped, maybe a dremel and cut-off wheels can get in there.

For the labor costs of mounting and rebalancing a tire, I wouldn't buy used TPMS sensors. The batteries have a finite life and aren't serviceable. A TPMS scan tool is only going to tell you if the battery is good or bad, but not how long it has left. The Ford/Motorcraft valve stem mount...

Mine references 19" tires, and also has an additional label warning about not driving with the OE summer tires below 40F (5C).

It won't be listed separately since the UCA, mount, and bolt are sold as an assembly.

The TPMS sensors for '10-14 S197 have different part numbers than those for '15-'20 S550.

It's better than letting the engine run dry, but generally running mixed oils isn't a good idea. There's no expectation the additive packages (especially from different manufacturers) will be compatible. I wouldn't do that for the long run, but if you're going to change the oil soon I'd be...

The geometry of the assist spring is that it pushes the clutch pedal up for the first few degrees of travel. After the inflection point, the assist spring works to push the clutch pedal down. If the assist spring is removed, the first part of travel will be easier since you're no longer...

As a precaution, you may want to take a close look at the clutch pedal itself, near the pivot. I found a crack in mine a few months ago. I had an inconsistent clutch pedal, occasionally sticking near the floor. The assist spring was making things worse since it's on the side of the pedal arm...

Looks like the later car has a tiny drain hole at the bottom of the door opening the earlier car doesn't.

Try some metric box end wrenches and see which size fits your rear sway bar. I wouldn't rely on that LMR guide. 11-14 GTs had a 24mm rear sway bar, and GT500s used different sizes depending on options (coupe vs convertible, SVT performance package or not).

The Corsa Sport for the GT is 14316. The Corsa Sport for the GT500 is 14320. The GT500's look larger and are more expensive. I don't know what the other differences might be.

I had that happen last January, but it was immediately following the crank event. I suspect if the battery voltage gets low enough, the instrument cluster will be the first to reset. I replaced the battery as a precaution (it was the original).

I have an older version of these, but there are brushes good for cleaning the barrels while the wheels are on the car: https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/two+microfiber+wheel+wands.do?sortby=ourPicks&refType=&from=fn

I've had repeated clunking from the rear drop link bushings, but they didn't move from horizontal. My attempt to install the Energy Suspension bushings was unsuccessful, so I went another path. Did you torque the drop links to chassis bolts at ride height while links were vertical?