What are your limitations for wheel size when making a one piece forged? I have been looking at having a set made but everything is a three piece design at the size I am needing. Thanks.
I would not assume that the parts are the same anymore. i don't know this for a fact but I was told by a vendor that the manufacturer of the carbon fiber splitter and diffuser is different now.. I have some of their pieces and they are not the same design as the originals.
They are easy to ship - just tape the address to each tire in the tread area and make a couple passes through the tire with the tape so it stays and take them to a FedEx.
You can try Modular Powerhouse in Rockford and see what they charge but I agree with the others on time. Even with a lift it takes time - especially if you have to remove the starter.
Did you notice a pinion angle change when you lowered the car? I'm thinking that lowering it dramatically with the stock non-adjustable upper control arm could have thrown your pinion angle out of specs and hitting bumps is giving you driveline bind noises. Just a thought.
You should be able to drill the center of the stud in the cover and remove it. Replace it with a 10.9 or 12.9 grade stud or bolt. An 8.8 is equivalent to a grade 5 stud. Grade 10.9 will be equivalen to a grade 8 and 12.9 will be about 10% stronger than a grade 8 stud. Metric high grade...
Take a look at where your front shift arm from the shifter to the transmission connects. There is a Clevis with a plastic bushing that is held in place with a bolt from the top. With enough force this Clevis can twist on the transmission rod and cause shifting havoc.