Recent content by Windstang

I took it to a shop and up on the lift it went. It was pretty obvious that the noise was coming from the wheel area not the diff. Since the bearing change I haven't jacked it up and let it run so I can listen to the noise but it is there when I drive. I have looked at the brake pads to see if...

What's the difference between a PA performance and a rebuilt 2010 - compared to an OEM 2007 one? The 2010 version is 150A and the 2007 OEM one is 135A so better capacity. I don't have any upgrades that would draw more than factory load.

Yeah - sounds like a throwout bearing to me too. Mine is an auto - so thats not my issue. Good luck finding your issue.

And since I posted the above note, my OEM alternator went bad. Car died on the road without warning. Well I did have a warning - the radio started going on and off and I thought the radio was going bad. Then I looked at the voltage gauge and I was down to 10 volts. Dropped fast from then on...

I have a grinding noise too from the rear - sort of a TSHH TSHH TSHH and it changes with the speed. Took it to a shop and they said it was a bad diff. Took it to another and they figured it was coming from the brakes or bearings and they kind of verified to general location - from the passenger...

Try CJ Pony parts for a lighter cover. There are lots of vendors that have fun little improvement mods for your 'new' car. Sequential tail lights are nice to have too as well. Have fun

I had a power off draw on a Ram once and pulled fuses until the mA load dropped. As said, wait a while before measuring to allow things to timeout. Once I found my issue (it was power running boards that weren't completely closing each time and would continue to try to retract). I tried to fix...

Yeah it's new pricey oil and additive. I guess should just try to keep the oil really clean as it drains and re-use it. With the old bearing back in, I have the noise again. When I first re-installed it, I put some synthetic grease in it and it was quieter. Next time I feel like bonding with the...

I sent the bearing/seal combo back to RockAuto (refund) and got the separate bearing and seal - so I live & learn and of course that always costs $$ so I get to pay again for 3 liters of 75W140 plus additive for my experience! I'm sure the diff won't mind.

Confirmed! I took the Bad Rockauto sensor and reversed the wires (cut and soldered) and re-installed and it works. So if anyone else has concerns about a new sensor not working, use an ohm meter and compare the new to a working one (as per above) and try reversing the wires. Worked for me .- now...

Holy Carp - sounds like a fishy story!

I installed a backup cam in my 07. I used the reverse light to power the camera and monitor but also installed a diode in the power source from the reverse light. The video signal cable which goes from the camera to the monitor had a 3rd wire for power to turn on the monitor when the reverse...

Maybe try some JB Weld and fix it up. There really shouldn't be that much stress on that part just holding the coilpack. I agree with Mxx448 - that didn't just happen.

Time to do a parasitic draw test to find the problem. I assume you have the Shaker 500 radio. Apparently they are know as a battery killer after a while when they go bad.

The other day I tried to replace my rear axle bearing (a story in in itself). During the process I managed to smack the ABS sensor with a hammer and cracked it. Of course that was enough to damage it and after taking the car out for a run, I got the ABS light. Ordered a replacement from Rock...