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Try actually shutting the engine off at the vibration cycle. Obviously, be careful doing this. Maybe it's engine related? The big clue for me was when you said; "do not remember having this vibration before the new rear tires were mounted". So I am focused in on the tires. IF this clue is...

LOL, I'm 'watching' this thread. I have same situation, a big freaking bay window. I have the Andersen guys coming over on Saturday to work up a quote. But it's gotta be something that has no wood components. I've been slowly replacing the old wood windows with all-vinyl windows, but all...

I've been chasing these types of vibrations for many years. Sometimes they are easy to fix, other times not so easy. Now that I'm getting old (and 'maybe' a little wiser), I try to use the Occam's Razor principle in all these situations. In other words, the simplest and most obvious solution is...

Yep, that's the three methods I use right there ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Just to close out this thread, I wanted to say that I did eventually find a way to get direct sight of the dipstick hole in the block. It was a restricted angle, looking down by the end of the master cylinder. Once I had the hole in view, I immediately noticed that I had the dipstick going...

If I have the car on jack stands and one of the stands is a little bit off-position, and then I shove the car, the car could rock and fall right off the jack stand, causing a lot of damage underneath. But yeah, better to damage the vehicle than yourself. I've read numerous horror stories about...

@Laga - Oh yeah, I spent a fair amount of time trying (unsuccessfully) to do it on the floor, with car just jacked a little bit. But even with multiple stands and jacks, I always HATE crawling underneath the car, I am paranoid about the car crashing down on me, it's gotta be a miserable way to...

@GlassTop09 - thanks, I got all the valve seals in and I tested all the springs while I was at it. That part is all done. That PQY tool was a lifesaver. Thanks for the recommendation.............

Ahh, great idea, thanks Thanks, I'll look for that boss. I do have a lift, but right now the car is on the open floor, so I don't want to mess with exhaust. I will look for that boss and see what happens.

Yeah, thanks, I know the general area is right there. But I can't see in there. I'm trying to use a mirror and light, or get myself into a position to see. Any idea?

2010 4.6L 3V..... After major work, trying to get the oil dipstick tube back into block. Is there a secret to locating or seeing the hole in the block? I remember the general area, but can't see it. Any tip or trick to find the hole?

Yeah, I included a pic below of this one. It looks like it would actually work. That's great info, thanks....

Ahh, thanks, I didn't know about rebuild services. I bought that new one in the eBay pic. I was posting because I was AMAZED that I actually managed to find a new one. I never in a million years thought I'd find a brand new one. I thought I'd end up paying top dollar for some used POS damper........

The damper is a truly rare item, it's a Cobra damper, it's anything but 'stock'. Look at this picture below of the front of the one I bought and you'll understand. Are you suggesting there is an aftermarket replacement available?? If so, please post a link or something for me to search. Thanks

I'm finishing up major work (timing chains/MMR guides, followers, lifters, valve seals, phasers, new timing cover) on my car: 2010 Roush 'Hammer' 4.6L 3V. This was Roush's top-of-the-line specialty vehicle for that year. It has a 2.3L TVS supercharger on it, which is driven by a "spider pulley"...

Done! The Melling tensioners are modified and installed........... Thanks for the help gents! Turns out my whole issue appears to have been a bad tensioner. I finally just looked at them and found this below. The guides were OK, but I installed new MMR guides anyway, just as a preventive measure.

Hey Bud, I am gonna use the iron tensioners. I finally looked at the old plastic tensioners, and right away I saw a bad gasket leak. I've got all the valve work done, new valve seals, checked valve springs, new followers, lifters, cams back in, new timing chains on and timed, MMR chain...

Yeah, I don't have an engineering degree, but this was my thought too. I'm gonna use the iron tensioners, and grind off the ratcheting tabs.

Thanks man, appreciate the feedback!

2010 4.6 3v, 24psi boost, 625 whp; I'm doing a complete laundry list of parts (timing chains/guides, phasers, rockers, lifters, valve seals, new timing cover). I have two brand new sets of tensioners sitting on my workbench. One is the plastic version (Ford) and the other is ratcheting cast...

So I'm chasing a ticking noise in my 2010 4.6 3v. One thing lead to another, and I ended up doing a complete laundry list of parts (timing chains, phasers, rockers, lifters, new timing cover). I just got done installing new valve seals, and I tested each valve spring for proper pressure while I...

Thanks, I found one that fit, it has deeper threaded area. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J0Z1WO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-engine-timing-cover-7r3z6019a There ya go! Best deal on the interweb IMO............... ;)

Doing a bunch of work on my car. The timing cover had to come off. I tried cleaning it but no joy. I had ZERO intention of buying a new one, but then I just happened to see one at Tasca Ford. Brand new part selling for $157, I was shocked. :rolleyes: It even came with gaskets (installed) and...

Trying to remove valve springs (engine still in car), so I bought a new valve holder (see pic below), but it will not thread into the head (2010 4.6L 3V). It is the right thread (12mm x 1.25), but I'm guessing the threads do not extend deep enough on the new valve holder. Does anyone know where...