Also, be sure to have the car aligned well after all.
After I did my suspension refresh (FRPP LCAs, Sway Bars, Eibach Springs, Koni struts, etc), caster was off and cradle had to be shifted a bit
After an unexpected ferry ride down in Galveston that resulted in the car getting covered in salt water spray and hard water spots, spent the afternoon giving it a full detail and coating.
For the vid, it’s just showing how off throttle there is no RPM spike between shifts and clutch in.
Cold start RPM adder is also a tune function, mostly added for emissions/catalyst heating. I played with this a bit during my own tuning to tame down cold starts to moderate success. If you...
If you have throttle flair when you clutch in, it’s likely a tuning related issue. There are air adder tables that are there to help soften OEM drivability and help smooth shifting - remember ford had to design these cars so everyone could drive them from the factory.
Some tuners don’t...
Cam swap can be done in an afternoon with beer breaks in between. My header swap was a nightmare compared to cams.
Yeah you miss out on the boost, but something about revving up to 6800 RPM reliably and having that lumpy idle is just so dang fun.
Plus, I would worry about bending a rod even...
Second plug for Lito here. Guy is the 3v GOAT. Still answers my questions 2 years after my initial tuning sessions and the throttle tuning is absolutely second to none.
Coming from a guy who also took the time/classes to tune my own car in between to learn more, Litos tune is still magical.
Howard’s rattlers and Hot Rods will be 6 to one, half dozen to another. They are very similar and both retain VCT which is important for drivability and low end torque.
The morher thumpers require phaser limiters so you lose some VCT functionality and low end torque.
I have run two cars with...
RPM decay between shifts is a function of the tune - combination of dashpot tables and decel spark. A tune can make RPM decay more aggressive up to a point.
These cars don’t have sport mode like the newer S197s do, but I believe that’s just a more aggressive advance track/traction control...
to me this shows your car is monitoring for misfires. You could have a partial misfire causing hesitation. When I had something similar, it was due to aftermarket coils and/or an improperly seated COP boots
The fuel pump DC being higher than normal just means the pump is working harder to...
And you are 100% sure the plugs are genuine MCs?
Also, only use MC coils as aftermarket may give a partial misfire but not trigger a code, but something you can definitely feel.
The dashed ODO signifies it’s still in the write procedure.
What SCT file did you write into the car? If you used a canned strategy that wasn’t for your PCM code, it could be causing the issue.
Can you flash it back to stock?
+1 to this. A lower tstat won’t fix an overheating condition unless the old tstat was stuck closed.
Though the 05/06s ran a 180 degree tstat, the 07+ with the updated coolant crossover ran a 195.
220F is nothing for these…the stock high speed fan doesn’t kick on until then. Heck the stock low speed fan doesn’t come on until something like 214F.
when my 06 GT high speed fan relay melted, my car got up to 240F before I saw the temp gauge pegged and it was fine…wouldn’t have known...
105C translates to 221F, which is when the high speed should kick on, with the stock fan temp settings in the tune. That said, my car never goes above 210 even in bumper to bumper traffic with all my mods but my low and high speed fans kick on sooner than stock.
Is the fan on? Can you tell if...
with how low the car is, maybe check the bump stops to see how centered the axle is on the stops (and if they are even on both sides)
If not that, you may need adjustable LCAs
I’m telling you, try the fluid swap first.
My 3v had a noisy pump and it was just old fluid….
And if it is a pump worst case, it’s really easy to swap.