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correct for what ??? that part # is a forged 3.750" stroker crankshaft for a 4.6L

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6398&highlight=5R55s

Correct

decking he heads also affects cam timing

...look under front of the intake manifold where the steel heater tube slides over the nipple. There are 2 orange orings on the nipple. If those seals are missing or cut, coolant will leak down the valley of the block and through the hole at the rear of the valley. Coolant will then leak out...

what type of timing chain tensioners are you using - metal or plastic

same here

That's exactly how I set the installed height of the ARP main studs when I built my engine. I wanted one full thread protruding through the nut.

Mine are installed with one full thread protruding through the nut http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=520571&postcount=124

· Remove pulley. Remove the 3 machine screws holding alternator housings together. CAREFULLY tap on front housing (pulley end) to loosen it from center section of alternator. Do NOT allow center section to loosen from rear frame. Rotate front frame of alternator counter clockwise...

http://s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=525971&postcount=175

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91591&highlight=Fore

http://s197forum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=386&pictureid=2165

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60936&highlight=wheel+studs

...

no just meant to provide general information about decoupler pulleys

http://www.gatesprograms.com/adp

if you're going to grind the seats I suggest using a machine similar to this or equivalent Hand lapping afterwards is unnecessary. Only reason to perform that task is to confirm seat to valve width and location.

That's exactly my point. Each different type of head gasket requires a specific RA surface finish and that spec should be readily available from the gasket manufacturer. Hopefully the head gasket he's planning on using requires the same RA finish as is already on the block.

I noticed in your other thread you mentioned using a different head gasket. When the heads are surfaced, what RA micro-inch finish is required for those head gaskets? Is the RA micro-inch finish for those head gaskets different than the current surface finish on already on the block?

FWIW - I would suggest using a valve seat concentricity (run out) gage after installation of the guides to be absolutely sure the guide is perfectly square to the seat and the bore in the valve guide is centered within .001". If it's not perfectly square and centered to the seat the valve won't...

If the block is final honed with a torque plate in place, cylinder head hardware torqued to the final assembly torque, using the same ARP studs and head gaskets as used during the final assembly process, shouldn't the bores be round when the engine is assembled? Isn't this the whole reason for...

I have my battery trunk mounted, it is wired the same as you have yours and have no issues. I would suggest adding a 150 amp fuse (provided you're still using the stock alternator) to the 4 gage circuit for the alternator at the battery in the event the + cable for alternator or alternator...

why do you think #7 rod bearing failed?

Just some suggestions as I have seen this issue before... After careful failure analysis the reason for this failure mode is more than likely one, or a combination of more than one, of the following: Antiseize not used, or incorrect type of antiseize used, at time of initial hub...