Battery relocate schematic

[07 procharger]

Hey all,

I can use some help here. Ever since I did the battery relocate I have been dealing with a dead battery, low voltage issue.

I've replaced the battery and still am experiencing the same issues. If the car sits even overnight the battery is dead the next morning. This issue only started getting bad after I added my cut off switch.

I've never had an issue until I relocated the battery to the trunk.

I've attached an schematic of how I wired my relocate. If anyone sees anything wrong or has any suggestions I would be grateful.

Another note. After I scattered my gear box back in October I parked the car and tripped the battery cut off. I only turned it back on yesterday for the first start up since I tripped it...battery was dead and needed a quick charge.

I'm stumped

thanks for looking and any input.

 

[07 procharger]

sorry about the sideways pic, I edited it in photobucket but it still pastes like this??

 

[RocketcarX]

Sure the battery is good?

 

[RocketcarX]

Also have you verified the voltage at the battery is rising when the car is running?

 

[07 procharger]

Not yet but I will first thing in AM. After the car runs for 5 min if I shut it off it starts right up with no issues.

Battery is brand new

 

[007GTCS]

Check the alternator also. And what gauge wire you using?

 

[07 procharger]

I wrote at the bottom of the schematic

1 gauge welding for positive and negative

4 gauge for the alternator....and just realized I don't know how to spell alternator

 

[007GTCS]

Sorry didn't see that, My bad lol. I would check the alternator and also see if there is any amp draw on the battery with the car shut off. The gauging does look rights, if it was me I would run 2 gauge for the alternator though. That's just me. I had to do that in an old car I had.

 

[RocketcarX]

I would check the basics before looking for too much help.
It's pretty simple to find a current draw. Def wanna start with a voltmeter at the battery, make sure it's actually charging and load test the battery for a dead cell.

 

[07 procharger]

thanks guys....mechanics = strong electrical = the poo.

 

[LAStang1234]

sub'd

 

[dysan]

That looks like how I wired mine. One suggestion for the grounding...I don't know if you have a welded in roll bar or not but if you do, the best thine to do for grounding would be to weld a 1/2" bolt upside down on the mounting plate or the actual bar in the trunk and ground the battery to that.

I would start by using an ammeter to see if there is any current draw with the car shut off. Take off the lead from the battery on the shutoff switch and test for current between the lead and then switch with the switch on, then turn the switch off and see if there is still draw. You will of course see a small amount of current draw due to radio memory, and other small things but it should be small. Maybe the shutoff switch itself is bad and is somehow slightly shorted internally???

 

[07 procharger]

Great suggestion dysan, If the switch is faulty would it still work? Because it does kill the car when I trip it.

 

[dysan]

It could still work even if faulty...depends on what is wrong with it but I'm doubting that it's the issue. You are going to just have to work your way down the line testing what is pulling the current, most likely to the point of pulling fuses in the BEC and SJB.

There is two ways you can check that...either someone back by the battery with the ammeter and someone pulling fuses or just use a good multi-meter and use the leads in the fuse connections with the multi-meter set to measure current. You will need to be careful with that since most multi-meters I know are only good to 10-15 amps.

 

[hamish]

Remove or disconnect the switch and check resistance to see if it is faulty.

 

[RocketcarX]

Still need to start with the basics buddy. Test the battery and alternator, I know you said the battery is new, but if you killed it one good time it's enough to ruin most entry level batteries.

 

[tmcolegr]

I have my battery trunk mounted, it is wired the same as you have yours and have no issues.

I would suggest adding a 150 amp fuse (provided you're still using the stock alternator) to the 4 gage circuit for the alternator at the battery in the event the + cable for alternator or alternator itself develops a short to ground - just for some added protection. The OEM + battery cable to the alternator has a fusible link for just that reason.