1000 HP build advice

[cyclerick]

Rebuilding my 2011 Coyote street car that sees occasional 1/4 and 1/2 mile events and track days. I already have the billet oil pump gears, ID1000s and 3.15 pulley supporting my Paxton 2200sl and will be upgrading the fuel system however I need advice on the following upgraded parts:

1. Will be resleeving block so is it worthwhile to make it 3.700 so that it becomes a 5.2 litre?
2. Should I upgrade the timing chains, tensioners and guides along with the related bolts?
3. upgrade the harmonic balancer? To which one?
4. Is it worthwhile putting in a high rpm pulse ring as I will be upgrading my heads, valves and springs?
5. Do I need a billet lower crankshaft gear?
6. Is it worthwhile changing the front phaser plates for lighter ones?
7. Should I go with 10 or 11.5 compression?
8. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[cb900f]

1. If using FI, I don't see the advantage of it. .2L isn't much.
2. Depending on where you say bolts, but I'd leave all chains, tensioners, etc stock.
3. Yes, ATI is a good one.
4. Depends on how high you want to rev it. What's your power adder?
5. Tough call on that one. Im doing it, as it's not much. Hate to skimp and regret it later.
6. Haven't seen anyone do this.
7. Depends on fuel.
8. .......

Rebuilding my 2011 Coyote street car that sees occasional 1/4 and 1/2 mile events and track days. I already have the billet oil pump gears, ID1000s and 3.15 pulley supporting my Paxton 2200sl and will be upgrading the fuel system however I need advice on the following upgraded parts:

1. Will be resleeving block so is it worthwhile to make it 3.700 so that it becomes a 5.2 litre?
2. Should I upgrade the timing chains, tensioners and guides along with the related bolts?
3. upgrade the harmonic balancer? To which one?
4. Is it worthwhile putting in a high rpm pulse ring as I will be upgrading my heads, valves and springs?
5. Do I need a billet lower crankshaft gear?
6. Is it worthwhile changing the front phaser plates for lighter ones?
7. Should I go with 10 or 11.5 compression?
8. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[onebadgsx]

1. If you are doing big sleeves, might as well go bigger, doesnt cost any extra.
2. I did boss tensioners. Bolts, only phasers and cam caps are available. I would replace
3. Yes. Ati, to spin the blower enough with out alip you will need the over drive ati.
4. Yes. Cheap
5. Yes cheap insurance
6. Dont know about these.
7. I would go flat tops, which mine were 11.0:1

 

[cyclerick]

4. 8000 rpm, paxton with 3.15 pulley
7. Pump gas 93

 

[cb900f]

4. 8000 rpm, paxton with 3.15 pulley
7. Pump gas 93

If you want to run pump gas, you will need to run low compression.

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[cyclerick]

If you want to run pump gas, you will need to run low compression.

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So 10:1 compression should work. Maybe a splash of race fuel for 1/4 and 1/2 mile.

 

[cb900f]

So 10:1 compression should work. Maybe a splash of race fuel for 1/4 and 1/2 mile.

Man I would run 100% race fuel for those events. Cheap insurance to keep from popping your motor.

GT500 uses 9:1, and the old 5.4L motor was like 8.4:1.

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[cyclerick]

Safe tune and good fuel system will help. Too much race fuel is not a good thing.

 

[cb900f]

Safe tune and good fuel system will help. Too much race fuel is not a good thing.

Wait, wut?

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[cyclerick]

Wait, wut?

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Strike my comment on race fuel.

 

[ford20]

Rebuilding my 2011 Coyote street car that sees occasional 1/4 and 1/2 mile events and track days. I already have the billet oil pump gears, ID1000s and 3.15 pulley supporting my Paxton 2200sl and will be upgrading the fuel system however I need advice on the following upgraded parts:

1. Will be resleeving block so is it worthwhile to make it 3.700 so that it becomes a 5.2 litre?
2. Should I upgrade the timing chains, tensioners and guides along with the related bolts?
3. upgrade the harmonic balancer? To which one?
4. Is it worthwhile putting in a high rpm pulse ring as I will be upgrading my heads, valves and springs?
5. Do I need a billet lower crankshaft gear?
6. Is it worthwhile changing the front phaser plates for lighter ones?
7. Should I go with 10 or 11.5 compression?
8. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

1. I would, but then again I sleeved my N/A block for the hell of it. A little extra CI never hurts and if it isn't going to cost much more why not?
2. Upgrades to Boss tensioners are a good idea, I haven't seen or heard many people outside of MMR upgrading guides to be honest. I am upgrading my secondary tensioners to the MPR billet secondary chains for added strength with the aftermarket svalve springs. I also added the RGR lightweight lockouts to help reduce some load.
3. Yes, you are going to have to. Either ATI or Innovators West. I chose innovators west due to the weight savings but they both are SFI 18.1 approved. If you are deleting your A/C compressor you can go with the Coyote Stock balancer which weighs a few lbs. less. Also I grabbed the ARP balancer bolt while I was there. Might as well right?
4. I think with the Paxton you are hitting peak power at what, like 7000 RPM? IMO not worth while for you but then again, I don't know a whole hell of a lot about FI.
5. Absolutely. I have seen a handful of them break and for the $250 it is cheap insurance just like oil pump gears. I got mine from MPR just like the secondary chains.
6. I did but then again I'm N/A but I can say, they are MUCH lighter than the stock ones, look great too! Anything to gain the advantage.
7. Stock compression is always good IMO. These motors love compression so feed it to them and let it eat on E85
8. Stay away from the MMR blocks. Cheaper isn't better, go find yourself a reputable shop to build the motor and ask them all of these questions as well.

 

[cyclerick]

I'm at 700rwhp on a mustang chassis dyno now with my Tremec magnum and RXT clutch and 3:73 rear, looking to bump this up to 800-850. Will axle bracing be enough for this level of HP if I only do the occasional 1/4 and 1/2 mile and track events?

 

[konablue11gt]

you should at minimum weld the axle tubes

 

[onebadgsx]

where are these light weight phaser plates yall speak of?

 

[cb900f]

where are these light weight phaser plates yall speak of?

Reminds me of this....

 

[Mr. Q]

If MMR is the only company making something like this, LMFAO.
MMR head cooling mod for $200 ftmfw LOL

 

[cb900f]

where are these light weight phaser plates yall speak of?

Here's the legit info.

5.0 Coyote Front Phaser Plates now available from MMR, if you are looking to keep the VCT active and want every possible advantage this is for you! Nearly 400 grams of rotating weight is removed with the installation of these on the intake and exhaust cams. Installation can be done with engine in vehicle in a matter of hours. Kit includes 4 MMR Phaser front plates and new ARP hardware! MMR Part # 600457

http://modularmustangracing.com.tempwebsite.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=920&cid=1

 

[ford20]

Here's the legit info.

5.0 Coyote Front Phaser Plates now available from MMR, if you are looking to keep the VCT active and want every possible advantage this is for you! Nearly 400 grams of rotating weight is removed with the installation of these on the intake and exhaust cams. Installation can be done with engine in vehicle in a matter of hours. Kit includes 4 MMR Phaser front plates and new ARP hardware! MMR Part # 600457

http://modularmustangracing.com.tempwebsite.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=920&cid=1

Light that shit on fire and feast your eyes on greatness.

Basically they are lockouts for cams what you are doing is gutting the VCT system until you are left with this:

Then you bolt everything back up. You are basically reducing some of the stress from secondary chains since they have to move less weight and reducing the rotating mass on the timing components. ESPECIALLY on the intake cam

 

[cyclerick]

Anyone use a Dart block for their build? I see they offer an 8.7" deck with various bores. Is weight the issue with this or just wanting to stay with Ford?

 

[ford20]

Dart doesn't make a modular engine block, besides deck height for the coyote is 8.93X