Luillo's 2013 Shelby Build thread

Discussion in '2007+ Mustang GT500 Tech' started by luillo, Dec 12, 2020.

  1. MrBhp

    MrBhp Senior Member

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    I know the feeling of having parts just sitting on the floor waiting for more parts or money to finish a project. Items get misplaced, warranties expire, I forget why the heck I bought that thing, what is that thing, I forgot. I've had my turbo setup sitting in a box for over a year. I've been gathering everything I'll need for the install. Nothing like getting in the middle of a build only to discover you need one more thing that you can't afford.

    The only thing that I do on the battery relocation is run a ground wire all the way to the engine. I've had intermittent problems in the past with grounding thru the chassis. Most people have no problems, but when you do they can be really bizarre.
     
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  2. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    You can install the longtubes and not need to tune it. The coyote pcm's learn transport delay. I just installed longtubes, and drove it without any changes to the stock tune for headers. Ran perfect.
    If your "high flow" midpipe has no cats, you will get P420/p430 codes.

    Ps: I could see a different behavior in STFTs with the LTs. But the PCM was not freeking out, and appeared to be adapting. Adding 15% to transport delay helped, I think I will end up with +30%. But for now, I'm just driving it and letting the PCM learn & test OBD.
     
  3. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Thanks, i was planning to do just that to be safe but wasn't sure if it was needed. Does anybody know b y chance what's the stock wire gauge this cars come with? i am not sure if is 8-gauge or something else.
     
  4. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Alexandro from Lund racing told me that the PCM will trim but not adjust. I should be good but at this pace, i will have everything i need to do the full install and tune. Currently just waiting for Kenne Bell to make and supply my oval 168mm TB.

    Then transmission cross member and clutch, done. last thing will be the trutrac and build engine. This 5.8 cost way too much to build, Jesus!!!!
     
  5. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    Not sure what he means by "trim but not adjust". Trim is an adjustment! lol The coyote pcm is really a next step in pcm tech. There are a bunch of learned values besides STFTs and LTFTs. Half of the fuel trim is applied to the maf transfer, so it can actually learn the maf to a certain extent. It can learn octane and adjust for fuel within reason. WOT afr is no longer something you need to tune. Set it what you want, and it will be what is set. Wideband upstream sensor + closed loop WOT= AFR set in tune. Just to name a few items.
     
  6. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I guess is to trim to what needs to be but will fall back down to the standard parameter. The difference i think is when the tune gets adjusted to compensate for any changes then it will trim from that base line.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    I will report my observations as the PCM learns! I need 2 more trips before the cat and o2 sensor tests become available. The first 4 drive cycles only run EGR and Components tests.
     
  8. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I will finally take some time to do the headers installation but i am curious to know everybody's thoughts about supplied bolts to install them. They are ferrous bolts, therefore, not aluminum and i worry about galvanic reaction. I bought the vibe-lock and they are also ferrous, very magnetic bolts. I am pretty sure i cant use the studs because Stainless Works headers have turns that will be in the way.
    Have any of you ran into this dilemma?
     
  9. EBABlacknChrome

    EBABlacknChrome forum member

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    The current bolts/studs and nuts are steel as well, they are fine! I am installing stage 8 bolts in mine right now. Stock studs where used to install my headers the first time with no issues. if I didn't have to pull drivers side I wouldn't have changed them.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  10. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    Steel bolts will be just fine. Zinc plated bolts will work also. I am not a fan of stainless steel fasteners.
     
  11. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Copy, thanks. I have this Vibe-Lock made by Taylor. It says to withstand heat and they are black as if coated.


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  12. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Finally found free time to dive into some of this upgrades. Next weekend i will finish this phase with the SW Long Tubes X/Pipe so I take some logs to send to Lund for the fuel trim tuning. Right now the car runs good and the so often knock readings almost disappeared, weird. The car is a little smelly of fuel so and popping like crazy on deceleration. The only different thing i notice from the extra air is the touchiness the gas pedal/throttle body is now, it is a little jerky but nothing bad at all.

    I parked the car until the headers are installed and I can log data to send to Lund because it did caused the car to go into limp mode and I had to park, turn the car off, then start again for the throttle to respond. Other than that issue, the car sound louder and is much beasty at the gas pedal.

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  13. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Started Friday at 1200 and got the car ready for the headers in 4 hours. Then i spend 6 hours installing the damn things thanks to 2 bolts on the heads. Those header bolts are no joke in the GT500s. The Coyote heads are way easier.

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  14. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    The only issue is the limp mode i have to coordinate with my tuner. I tried to do the logs but when I go for the 2K to 4K RPMs pulls, the throttle body dies and wont respond so i can complete the log until I cycle the key off and on or sometimes I can shift from that second gear to 3rd and it starts responding again.

    I hope is an easy fix because the car sounds and runs very nice and aggressive now.
     
  15. Juice

    Juice forum member

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    You put a larger throttle body on, and it is confusing the PCM = limp mode.
     
  16. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Yeah. Lund has the tune dialed in for the feedback I have seen. I just need to do the logs for him to adjust. I hope nothing else.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I finally got the log done and sent it to Lund. Crossing my fingers that the issue can be fixed as i have read on other forums similar issue as mine. Is very interesting that it only happens on hard acceleration but only when i let off the gas. It failsafe right when i let it roll down in RPMs but if i shift into another gear and force the TB to open by engine force, it works again.

    I think is like many had described in other forums as a problem with the TB closing too fast for the TPS to read properly. Something about the voltage readings. If this is a constant issue, i will have to swap it to a more reliable piece.
     
  18. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Well, I just found how to fix the issue for now. Re-assembled the TB electronics righting the case lightly and greased the gears. No more issues with it and had a chance to do a few WOT pulls datalogs to send to Lund for a final revision. A revision came back very fast and I had some time to make a few videos I will be posting soon to share the ride. Here is one of them.

    https://www.instagram.com/tv/CPhGwIeJkbX/?utm_medium=copy_link


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  19. crjackson

    crjackson Member

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    I hate to expose my ignorance on this, but what do you mean by “righting” the case lightly?
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2021
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  20. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I typed this on my phone and didn’t noticed the miss spell. I meant to torque the plastic case on the motor side where the gears are. I think the gears bind too much.


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    crjackson likes this.
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