Luillo's 2013 Shelby Build thread

Discussion in '2007+ Mustang GT500 Tech' started by luillo, Dec 12, 2020.

  1. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    So i decided to make a build thread to ensure i am not missing anything and entertain during the journey. There is so much options for these cars and it will take me some time to achieve my goal that it made sense to track any progress and plan accordingly.

    Details are below and i will update it as i progress:

    2013 GT500
    Gray
    Stock

    Goal > To build the best 1/4 mile drag Shelby with the best street drivability possible. Looking for weight reduction, traction, and ultimately more powa!!!

    Build Goal:
    • Built 8.8 Rear End:
      • 9" Housing Ends & Welded Tubes
      • Strange Billet Main Caps
      • 4.10 FRPP Gears
      • TruTrac
      • Moser 31 spline axles
      • Shelby Diff Rear End Cover
    • Suspension:
      • BMR Adj UCA & Bracket
      • BMR Upper Diff Bushing
      • BMR LCA Relocators
      • BMR Billet LCA
      • BMR Adj Padnhard bar, Pandhard Support bar & Relocator Bracket
      • BMR Radiator Supp & Sway Bar
      • Vikings Crusaders Double Adj Front & Rear
    • Transmission:
      • Tremec T56 Magnum XL 2.97
      • McLeod Clutch & Lightened Flywheel
      • Shelby Clutch Fluid Reservoir
    • Engine:
      • Stainless Works 1-7/8 Long Tube Jet-Hot 2500 deg Titanium Coat
      • Stainless Works Cat back
      • JDM Built Short Block with Sleeves & Oil Pump
      • Support items for Cam chain etc.
      • Modular Head Shop Stage 2 Heads & Cams
    • Lower Intake:
      • Fischer Motorsport Hot Water bypass mod
    • Induction Upgrade:
      • Whipple 3.8L Gen 5
      • Kenne Bell 168mm Mono Blade Throttle Body
      • JLT 148 Super Big CAI
    • Brakes:
      • Baer SS4 Light Weight Front Brakes
      • BPS Rear 15" Conversion Kit
    • Exterior & Wheels:
      • Shelby Wide Body Kit (Rear Only)
      • Forgestar Custom Wheels (Daily Drive Wheel Setup)
        • Front 19x8 or 19x7
        • Rear 20x11 or 20x13
        • Tires TBD
      • Forgestar Drag Wheels or Welds (Track Only Wheels)
        • Front 15x5
        • Rear 15x10
        • Tires TBD
      • Black Mamba Super Snake Hood
      • Carbon Fiber Doors & Trunk
      • Optic Armor Windshield Front & Rear
    Any advice will be appreciated as i progress guys.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2020
  2. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    44
    Currently i am working on the rear end. i have the following items at home but i am waiting to move into my new home in April 2021 to continue with my build. Thanks to Black Friday i just purchased a lot of things but i am currently on hold until i can settle up next year.

    Current parts on hand:

    Rear End 9" Welded
    Moser 31 splines axle
    Strange Main Caps
    Shelby Rear End Cover
    FRPP 4.10
    I need to buy the Trutrac and powder coat the rear end to finish it.

    Stainless Works 1-7/8" long tubes
    Stainless Works Cat back (Installed)
    X.B.A Elbow for the Kenne Bell 168 Mono TB
    148 JLT Super Big CAI
    Kenne Bell 168mm Mono on Lay Away

    I will Continue the build with the Tremec T56 after April. I want to install and tune all the parts in bulk to avoid too much work on my part. I do most of the installations on my car parts but it becomes a huge hassle if i don't plan them accordingly specially the headers.

    After I finish with headers i should only have the engine to worry about but that will be in about 2 more years to come. I will be working on traction for the car on the street and at the track. This reminded me of some mods i forgot to mention in the post above.

    Vikings suspension. i will edit the post above.
     
  3. golkhl

    golkhl forum member

    3,653
    2,101
    Amazing parts list for your build, she is gonna be a ripper!
     
  4. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Thanks. I have to figure out that T56 swap. After I finish the rear end, that’s the next!


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  5. Iceman62

    Iceman62 Bullitt 6005

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    312
    Wow...following. :D
     
  6. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

    1,476
    978
    T56 magnum kits are easy. They just bolt right in. Awesome build. Your gonna need a role bar!
     
  7. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Yeah, that’s what I’m counting on. The fact that the bell housing separates is a big plus. I’m trying to figure out what gear ratios should I do. 2.97 and rear 4.10 or 3.73 or should I do 2.66 and then what rear gears.


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  8. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    978
    I’m using the 2.66 with 4.30s in the rear. 1st and 2nd are pretty short. Someday I may try 4.10s.
     
  9. Badd GT

    Badd GT forum member

    700
    330
    I run the 2.97 with 3.73 and like it pretty well. Definite improvement over the 3650 with 4.10
     
  10. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    My plan is to go 2.97 with 4.10 for now but I’m looking at what will be the best setup for 1/8 & 1/4 mile that will still be fun on street.

    I been recording speed, transmission gear on stock form with my 3.31 to compare once I swap to 4.10.

    I need to compare it to the tr6060 gearing to see how it will be on t56 2.97 gearing.

    I only used 4.10 on my MT82 and it was insane awesome!!


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  11. NickD87

    NickD87 forum member

    602
    10
    I was recommended by a local guy who built several shelbys for drag racing to go with the 2.66 first (stock 13-14)
    I went with 4.10 rear gears but am only around 500hp
    He said the longer first gear will provide a better 1/4 mile
    I think with your power goals the 4.10 may be too steep


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  12. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Well, look at this video. this guys is running the TR6060 with 2.66 and 9" rear end with 4.11. Very similar to the setup i want to go with as far as tires and all. Those looks like 28" Tall. He got that car 9.5 seconds with a great 60. 1.39. Now i am all crushed, not sure which one should i go with 2.97 or 2.66.

     
  13. Silver'nStripes

    Silver'nStripes Member

    138
    79
    I put a 2.66 t-56 with 4.10 gears in my car earlier this year. It feels a little sluggish out of the hole with 28 inch tires, but I'm making 200 - 300 less hp than that guy lol.

    The key for me when choosing between the two gear sets was the spacing between each gear. You can always correct for the 1st gear ratio with rear gear.

    With 4.10 rear gears and 28 inch tires, shifting at 6500 it looks something like this:

    2.93 gear set:
    1st @ 6500 rpm --> 2nd @ 4596 rpm
    2nd @ 6500 rpm --> 3rd @ 4519 rpm
    3rd @ 6500 rpm --> 4th @ 4452 rpm

    2.66 gear set:
    1st @ 6500 rpm --> 2nd @ 4350 rpm
    2nd @ 6500 rpm --> 3rd @ 4747 rpm
    3rd @ 6500 rpm --> 4th @ 5000 rpm

    The 2.66 set keeps the rpm higher when it really matters. If you can find a rear gear ratio that allows for a decent launch ratio and appropriate trap rpm that's the way I'd go.
     
  14. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    My biggest issue is that I haven’t drove a 2012 TR6060 to compare my 2.66 to those 2.97. I’m not sure how different it will be and if it will benefit my 1/8 or 1/4 mile.


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  15. NickD87

    NickD87 forum member

    602
    10
    Look up hienz stock on YouTube allkhienz is the channel he has has some shelbys on there but I’d message him.


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  16. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    I did a search and nothing came up.


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  17. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    Well, T56 Magnum XL with 2.97 first it is. Found a deal for a low mileage kit (10K miles) and pulled the trigger. All i need is the clutch which i am on the fence to which brand to go. I usually purchase McLeod but after my RXT1200 HD experience i want to try another good brand. The current clutch in my car is the McLEod RXT1200HD which comes with a flywheel plate to install the clutch directly onto the existing flywheel and i though that was neat but then i realize this is just more rotational weight. The clutch kit was good initially but with a lot of chatter on first gear, very difficult to move in first gear smoothly, i assume is because the clamp pressure. I realized this was too much clutch for my stock application but now is too late. The clutch apparently didn't worn out or broke properly and is making metal sounds on light clutch pedal release.

    I want to try the Mantic clutch kit because looks very nice and the kit comes completely with everything you need for a proper installation, (flywheel, dual disk, pressure plate, throughout bearing, etc.) The only thing i need to verify is the throughout bearing spacer needed. I need to contact the company or vendors for verification if i need a spacer and which one i will need to do my installation.
     
  18. luillo

    luillo forum member

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    44
    Well, got my Stainless Works long tubes back from Jet-Hot coated with their 2500 degree coating and Titanium paint. Now i just have to get the X-pipe with a basic ceramic coating and a set of header gaskets. Also picked my 2.97 T56 Mag XL and drive shaft. Working to get the crossmember and deciding which clutch to use with it soon. Leaning towards that new brand X-Clutch. Waiting to hear from the rep about which one should i buy for street/drag.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. luillo

    luillo forum member

    1,581
    44
    Well, Cometic is finally shipping my header gasket and i can plan to install my long tubes soon but i am still stock with Kenne Bell monoblade order. That still pending by mid next month so i have a questions for the forum.

    The fact that this cars have O2 and AFR can adjust is it possible to install my 1-7/8" headers with free flowing x pipe without a tune? i will not be doing any kind of WOT pulls or anything. Once i have the Kenne Bell TB installed with the JLT CAI 148" i can load the tune i receive and do the data log to adjust but i would like to install the headers sooner than later.

    What you think guys?
     
  20. luillo

    luillo forum member

    1,581
    44
    Well, work and time is not cooperating much and all these parts i have in storage are just getting old. I am trying to take the easy mods up front until i find time so i am now at the battery relocation process.

    There is WAY too many threads about relocating the battery to the trunk so i will just post mine here in my build thread. Below is the schematic i will follow, nothing special or NHRA oriented at all. Please excuse the child drawing, lol. Please let me know what you think.

    [​IMG]
     
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