5r55 Troubleshooting / Feedback Request

[Rygen]

Not sure which section to put this in, as both the 4.0 and 4.6 share this transmission minus the input shaft and a few other goodies, but after some research, I think my issue is cross platform, so I'll post it here.

Some of you may be aware, that my last 3 or 4 trips to the track have been plagued with my 3-4 shift hanging, and it seems to get worse with either raised power levels, or heat. Will get back to that. But essentially this is what I experience on the track and street, at boost levels from 13psi to 17psi, and juice (have not had a chance to test it on 20psi+, but don't think its needed)...

1. From a dead stop, do a hard launch
2. 1-2, 2-3 shift is rock solid, no delay, car shifts hard
3. 3-4 shift....revs high....holds and then shifts

Now, on normal driving, on the street, all shifts are 100%. I can only duplicated this condition on 3/4 throttle and WOT. And it seems to be slightly better after the car has sat over night (ie transmission is cold).

I am prepared for the fact that my transmission may be starting to fail (after 2 race seasons, NA+Juice, Turbo at 8, 11, 13, 15, & 17psi + juice) as I have really beat on it a good bit. However, in talking with other S197 owners, I have found others that have this issue, with different setups.

So far, I have found the following with this problem...

1. (1) 05 GT Owner, bolt ons
2. (1) 06 V6 Owner, pro-charged, cammed (easily over 400rwhp on a DJ)

So next steps are to datalog all the auto parameters, and get them to Mike@PH (which I promised him last week) and possibly replace the transmission.

But before doing that, I wanted to see if anyone else has run into this issue. My auto transmission is nearly stock, minus a reworked stall (about 500k over stock) and a PA oil pan (extra 4 qts) and I'm running Amsoil synthetic oil in my transmission.

Anyone else run into this issue? Its significantly impacting my ET's and consistency of the car (ie bracket racing). Could it be the fact that the transmission is from the first batch of S197's? Or just the transmission is broken in a fair bit from racing?

On the street, its 100%, no slippage of gears. So it makes me wonder if its really a sign of it failing. Of course I may know more once Mike studies the logs and/or cracks open the transmission. But the later will not happen till after race season.

Sorry for the long winded post, comments and feedback are much appreciated.

 

[Rygen]

So none of my GT brothers have run into this issue? I know a lot of you may have swapped out your tranny's before you really beat on them. Just wanted to see if anyone else ran into this one.

 

[don_w]

I've never encountered that scenario personally. But, you may be on to something about just beating on it pretty hard. Also, is there any chance the TC might be the culprit?

 

[Rygen]

Thanks Don. Quite possibly. I got this from a vendor on another site that is knowledgeable about the 5r55. Interesting read..

There is a known "flare" between the 3-4 shifts with the factory 5R55S tranny, as indicated in either MM&FF or 5.0 magazines (maybe both????) last year when evaluating the TCI streetfighter torque converter.

This flaring issue can be resolved (IMHO) via one or all of the following:

1. New billet torque converter (unfortunately a worked OEM tq conv, while allowing some slip <aka: stall> might only further exacerbate the problem). The new billet tq conv must take into account the phenomenon & provide better pressures & lockups for the 3-4 shift. Also rotor/stator clearances in a built/billet tq conv are more precise & less likely to flare

2. New fluid pump: I suppose it's possible that the factory pump allows too much slippage at those high rpms of the drag racing 3-4 shift. Couple that with the tremendous centrifugal force & torque...... well, you get the picture.

3. There is a solenoid which helps control shifts as well. Upgrading this component might allow "harder" shifts; especially the 3-4

4. ECM. From what I've read, the 5R55S is an: electronically-controlled transmission. Shift points/pressures are controlled from the car's computer. SCT X-Cal (and other) tuner(s) allow us to firm up shift points. However, having stated the mechanical limitations above, without building up the tranny with new clutch-paks, bands, converter, and/or pump (etc.), the computer tuning might not be enough.

5. I know the 5R55S in the 4.6 3V GT has an adapter plate to connect the torque converter to the flywheel. Dunno if the 4.0 V6 tranny has the same config., BUT.... if it DOES.... then I'd look at a billet torque conv which eliminates this adapter plate & is more "old skewl" whereby it bolts directly to the flywheel.

Lastly, I'd pull my tranny pan & check the magnet in the dimple of the pan for metal. While at it, I'd change the tranny filter. If there was metal on the magnet, then assume wear in the transmission's critical components. If you have a deep dish pan which has no dimple for the magnet; place the magnet around the fill plug (it shouldn't go anywhere & at least it'll still be there to collective ferrous debris & give you a 'warning' of wear conditions).

Finally, I doubt it's a fluid overheating condition at this point; otherwise it would be more obvious in other gears / shift-points. Plus, you mentioned that on the streets it's fine, just flares at the track, under LOAD.

What's cool about our trannies is that you can build them in "stages", as your wallet permits. A person could:

1. Replace the converter with a billet model
2. Then upgrade the pump while the tranny & converter are out
3. Upgrade shift programming as needed
4. Then save up the bucks for solenoid / shift-block mods
5. Then save up the bucks for new clutch packs and/or bands needed for the rebuild
6. Then save up the labor $$$ for the rebuild (unless you have presses & other specialized tools needed to rebuild)
7. Then take the parts & car to a tranny rebuilder and have them do an entire rebuild to reinforce the tranny.
8. Then <finally> break-in the new internals & get the transmission custom-tuned to your liking. I believe one could possibly have both a 'street tune' and a 'racing tune' loaded into their handheld programmers which would provide the smoothness & driveability on the street, and then the firm shifts and lock ups needed in competitive drag racing.

Big project, big bux <I'm sure.> Anything else is just band aids.

 

[don_w]

I just put a PI triple disc in my car, and with Adam's tune, it provide a nice firm shift.

 

[GT4Dino]

I have had a similar experience.........

 

[GT4Dino]

Mine would shift into fourth, freerev and bang the revlimiter, and then find fourth at WOT. That was why I took my car to Adam way back when, so he could fix my original tuner's shift points. My advice is to definitely have your tuner adjust shift points, and in the interim, do not do any WOT runs on that shift; it can cause damage!!!! The 3rd/4th is synchronous, and CAN be problematic for tuning.

 

[Charlie Sheen]

New trouble for me. Twice today I put the car in drive, it (eventually) starts to pull away and then acts as if I've pushed a clutch pedal in, revs go up but car seems to coast. I let off and then the tranny takes the gear back and goes forward. Also about a 2-3 second delay from R to D. shit

 

[don_w]

New trouble for me. Twice today I put the car in drive, it (eventually) starts to pull away and then acts as if I've pushed a clutch pedal in, revs go up but car seems to coast. I let off and then the tranny takes the gear back and goes forward. Also about a 2-3 second delay from R to D. shit

It's an even-numbered day...

 

[cekim]

It's an even-numbered day...

I am with don - your tranny is clearly programmed with "evenitis"...

Have you dropped the pan on that damn thing yet?