5r55s issues

Josh McCool

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i have a 2006 gt with trans issues. its locked in either 3rd or 4th gear with the o/d light flashing. it engages p, r, and n just fine. it will drive forward just fine once its done slipping and gets moving forward fast enough. it has codes saying the shift circuits are not operating. a shop looked at it said mechanically its fine. anyone run into this before?
 

08MustangDude

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It needs rebuilt or replaced, and that's that. Someone can sit here
and explain the internal workings, but in the end, it's a mechanical
failure, be it a clutch pack, band or servo...
 

07 Boss

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It needs rebuilt or replaced, and that's that. Someone can sit here
and explain the internal workings, but in the end, it's a mechanical
failure, be it a clutch pack, band or servo...


It doesn't necessarily mean he needs a rebuild. It could be something as minor as a pinched wire or bad solenoid. Sounds more electrical to me. Without knowing the codes it could be a bunch of things.

What were the exact codes given?
 

08MustangDude

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O/D light flashing is an internal failure. I don't know how a SHOP
can look at it and say, "mechanically" it's fine. They would have
to take it apart to verify that. Anyone would have to...

Even if it is a solenoid, replacing the solenoid pack is the solution,
with an updated one. Solenoids are mechanical, controlled with
electric impulses. If it is electrical, then the solenoid pack is fine.
This will also be the easiest fix if a solenoid has mechanically failed,
and replacing the whole pack is the solution. They're all over eBay,
and updated versions.

It is a mechanical failure, you will see... Even if the mechanical failure
is caused by an electronically controlled device that has failed, it's still
mechanical. The codes will tell you WHAT is wrong, like P0775, would
be Pressure Control Solenoid B Malfunction...

I fit is a WIRE, shorted, or open, then it is electrical. This usually isn't
the case. Wiring issues causing failures is not a common problem with
the 5R55, it's almost always mechanical; servos being the #1 issue,
intermediate, and/or over-drive servo; which applies the bands.

You post saying you were told it's shift circuits not operating, then you
do not provide any of the codes. This is why you will get nothing but
guessing and conjecture. The "SHOP" should have provided you with
the codes that would be present.

Most times with these issues with the 5R55, it's rebuild or replace time.
Consider yourself lucky if all it is, is a solenoid pack, or a wire.
 

07 Boss

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Yeah, these things are notoriously weak. I'm on my third, 2nd "built" one. My point was until we get some codes it could be something as simple as replacing a solenoid pack. Clutches and valve body might be just fine, well as fine as can be, all the gears may work and the tranny is just not getting the signal to shift. You ought to think about rebuilding it anyways especially if you are running anything above stockish power levels. This tranny needs many upgrades from stock to make it perform decently like kolene steel clutches (alto reds or like), to servo bores, from input shaft to valve body.

Anyways, were not going to be able to help diagnose the issue without codes.
 

08MustangDude

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Another thing people do not know, is the two bands are adjustable,
the intermediate and over-drive band.

You do want to adjust them so that there is no slip when the bands
are applied. As the clutch material on the bands wear down , the
gap widens between it and the drum. The slip, which is a flared
shift into 3rd or O/D, burns the clutch material. Keeping them adjusted
keeps the application time and grab strength the same.
5r55w_10.jpg



Just some more information the weakness of the transmission... Ford still
using bands when just about everyone else went to brakes inside the drums.
 

07 Boss

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Another thing people do not know, is the two bands are adjustable,
the intermediate and over-drive band.

You do want to adjust them so that there is no slip when the bands
are applied. As the clutch material on the bands wear down , the
gap widens between it and the drum. The slip, which is a flared
shift into 3rd or O/D, burns the clutch material. Keeping them adjusted
keeps the application time and grab strength the same.
5r55w_10.jpg



Just some more information the weakness of the transmission... Ford still
using bands when just about everyone else went to brakes inside the drums.


That right there is good to know.
 

Derf08

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i have a 2006 gt with trans issues. its locked in either 3rd or 4th gear with the o/d light flashing. it engages p, r, and n just fine. it will drive forward just fine once its done slipping and gets moving forward fast enough. it has codes saying the shift circuits are not operating. a shop looked at it said mechanically its fine. anyone run into this before?
The solenoids are a weak link in these transmission.

The transmissions themselves are typically fine mechanically with the exception of the input shafts, the intermediate/overdrives servos, and the band adjustments. The rotational pieces rarely fail unless it's a cheap rebuild/reman job.

Quick test, if you manually adjust the shifter from 1, 2, 3, to D does the car shift fine when driving. If so, it's the solenoid pack or the wiring harness to it that has failed. The "shift circuits" error is a clue.

Reverse uses a mechanical solenoid although it can fail too, it's not as usual and does not affect forward gears.

Exact codes would be more helpful but the above test will help you figure out if its mechanical or electrical.
 

Lou Hiddell

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So I have a similar issue which I thought was electrical but my mechanic says I need a rebuild. I have an 05 GT with just over 140k miles. It threw code P0733 among others. Basically I was driving down the road, it "clunked" hard shifting into 3rd so I pulled over and no reverse gear, the O/D light was flashing, and the check trans light was on. I need to make a decision soon on a rebuild or new transmission but I found this article https://transguide.puzl.com/5r55s talking about our transmissions and how remanufactured 5r55s are apparently much better quality than just getting a standard rebuild done. Have any of you heard of this? Also, do I even need to spend the extra money for that since it is just my daily and I don't race it or anything? Thanks in advance for the advice as I need to make a decision soon
 

07 Boss

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What is the difference between a remanufactured and a rebuilt tranny?

But yes you can buy a built transmission or have yours rebuilt locally. Personally I would find a good shop near you and they can upgrade/build your transmission with some pretty standard upgrades and good clutches.
 

Laga

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Another thing people do not know, is the two bands are adjustable,
the intermediate and over-drive band.

You do want to adjust them so that there is no slip when the bands
are applied. As the clutch material on the bands wear down , the
gap widens between it and the drum. The slip, which is a flared
shift into 3rd or O/D, burns the clutch material. Keeping them adjusted
keeps the application time and grab strength the same.
5r55w_10.jpg



Just some more information the weakness of the transmission... Ford still
using bands when just about everyone else went to brakes inside the drums.
The problem is there is no room to get a torque wrench on the back band adjustment screw. I replaced the solenoid block a couple of months ago, but could not adjust bands. I bought a couple of 8 point sockets that I am going to cut down and see if that works. I may have to drop back of tranny to get the TW on the screw. I have a 05 and both screws and lock nuts were very rusty. Sprayed the shit out of them back then. Hopefully that will loosen them up.
Im going to have to do the job myself. The shop I go to for alignments also does general mechanics. Last month they would not do the adjustment when I had front end aligned. Told me to take it to tranny shop. I go to local tranny shop that's been there forever, and its closed now. Owner died of COVID. I find another tranny shop, and guy behind the counter insists there are no bands on that transmission. Nope, not going there.
 

DieHarder

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How many miles on the car? Recommend visiting a reputable transmission shop who has experience working on these transmissions and able to diagnose issues with it.

You might want to try the band adjustment procedure first. If that doesn't help since you mentioned slipping (AKA flaring) that's a likely indication the servo bores may be worn. An explanation of causes and a quick fix for that is this kit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5R55W-5R55...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Good luck.
 

808muscle

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Mine during a race wouldn't go into 3rd, just banged the motor off the rev limiter. We pulled it, shipped to a proper shop and they rebuilt it with red eagle clutches, shift kit etc... we reinstalled and my car was 2 tenths faster. Car had 500 plus quarter mile passes 430 whp. Now 200 passes later still just as good. If you can find a good shop for just the rebuild its not too expensive. I spent $2k but I'm in Hawaii and everything costs more here.
 

Doug Huggard

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Mine during a race wouldn't go into 3rd, just banged the motor off the rev limiter. We pulled it, shipped to a proper shop and they rebuilt it with red eagle clutches, shift kit etc... we reinstalled and my car was 2 tenths faster. Car had 500 plus quarter mile passes 430 whp. Now 200 passes later still just as good. If you can find a good shop for just the rebuild its not too expensive. I spent $2k but I'm in Hawaii and everything costs more here.
I had the same issue with mine at the end of last season. I rebuilt mine at home with raybestos red clutches(set them to the tighter end of clearance spec), kolene steels, borg warner high energy bands, oem intermediate drum (mine was fried from slipping lol), tci intermediate servo, transgo reprogramming kit, tci 300m input shaft and new oem ford solenoid pack. Had the servo bores sleeved as well. Clicked off two 10.3's at 133mph a couple weeks ago. These can handle a bit more than people give credit for if you do it right
 

JJ427R

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I have 60k+ miles, several 1/4 mile passes, and about 30 track days on mine and it's yet to fail on me!. Have the larger Performance Automatic trans pan, JDM Engineering Overflow Catch Can, and a B&M racing 20,500 btu cooler. I still overheat it almost every track day and it will then start shifting itself into overdrive, but it's still hanging in there. Supposedly Fords weakest trans but I give em a lot more credit than most!
 

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