Advice on Build Stages - Coyote

[cbass]

 

[07 Boss]

I know that this only works on the earlier S197's but the same concept should apply if you can get someone with the right electronics knowledge. But I built a set of actual simulators. Basically you take the signal from the front sensors, step them down and release them through a capacitor to mimic the return signal from rear sensors. You have to have rear sensors in there and turned on, but you don't need any cats to pass the OBD testing.






Zip tied them to my DS loop mount and good to go. I do have to change tunes but they have never not passed the test.




So what I'm saying if you can mimic the return signal needed you can bypass them and fool the computer. You do need to keep the rear sensors in so it can have the heater sensor heater circuit.

 

[Sky Render]

Well, I'm an EE by trade, so a little soldering and splicing has never scared me. Got a circuit diagram? And are you leaving the heater wires hooked up and splicing in the signal wires of the rear sensors?

 

[08StangGT_CS]

I went the NA route.

Should have done the blower. Listen to what everyone else says!

 

[Sky Render]

I drive my car around corners. I don't want an extra couple hundred pounds of crap hanging off the front end. Something called "polar moment of inertia."

 

[Pentalab]

I drive my car around corners. I don't want an extra couple hundred pounds of crap hanging off the front end. Something called "polar moment of inertia."

I think it's more like 80-100+ lbs, depending on HE used. Then also factor in the weight of the 2+ gals of coolant..another 16 lbs . On a 11+ car, I would be inclined to stay NA, and opt instead for LT's, un catted X or H....and a 94 tune..then call it a day. Perhaps an optimum rear gear ratio, depending on the application. Dumping some weight, lighter, wider rims, al DS, temp remove pass + rear seats, stickier rubber, eaton tru-trac, then suspension mods galore..and perhaps bigger /better brakes and cooling ducts.

Blower's on the 05-10 cars are fun. But 550-600 rwhp on tap, with a blower on a 11+ car would be a handful for autocross. On a 20-30 min track session, it could end up being a mixed bag, with possible heating issues in hot WX. With the extra weight, both the handling + braking could be compromised. You could well end up faster in the straights, then slower in the corners, with no real improvement in track times.

For drag racing, a PD blower + auto is the ticket.

 

[Pentalab]

Well, I'm an EE by trade, so a little soldering and splicing has never scared me. Got a circuit diagram? And are you leaving the heater wires hooked up and splicing in the signal wires of the rear sensors?

Vince, at 1st glance, it might be a simple RC time constant. If you really wanted to go crazy, both circuits could be combined into one box. Both resistors could be replaced with 10/20 turns pots. Then you could fine tune adjust it via 2 x small holes in the side of the box.
The 1 uf tant cap in there might be for dc blocking, or perhaps for smoothing the attenuated signal..... then a clean signal back to the oem rear 02 sensor wires..... back to ecu.

This concept he has shown here is better than O2 extenders, mini cats, or anything else. You just want to make the ecu happy.

 

[mrgtx]

I hear you guys on not wanting the extra nose weight of a FI system. While more power is ALWAYS better (if maybe a little more of a handful at the autox) these cars are not lacking for power...so this isn't addressing the biggest weak point of the late S197s (IMO).

The OP specifically asked about making more power so I will keep my mouth shut...just wanted to lend a vote of agreement to those who might not want a blower, even if it does represent "easy power."

 

[ford20]

I went the NA route.

Should have done the blower. Listen to what everyone else says!

When I finish my build next year I should be close to FI power while staying N/A

 

[cbass]

I thought the selling point of a stock coyote car is that it made FI 3v numbers from the factory?

 

[Sky Render]

NA motors also have better response than FI. No waiting for boost.

Also, I've got enough power. I just want noise.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

 

[07 Boss]

Well, I'm an EE by trade, so a little soldering and splicing has never scared me. Got a circuit diagram? And are you leaving the heater wires hooked up and splicing in the signal wires of the rear sensors?

Vince, at 1st glance, it might be a simple RC time constant. If you really wanted to go crazy, both circuits could be combined into one box. Both resistors could be replaced with 10/20 turns pots. Then you could fine tune adjust it via 2 x small holes in the side of the box.
The 1 uf tant cap in there might be for dc blocking, or perhaps for smoothing the attenuated signal..... then a clean signal back to the oem rear 02 sensor wires..... back to ecu.

This concept he has shown here is better than O2 extenders, mini cats, or anything else. You just want to make the ecu happy.

This is where I got it from.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010/429610-how-05-mil-eliminators.html

But it is my understanding this is not the right circuit for 2011+.

 

[Sky Render]

Aw, geez. I was afraid of that. Remember, the Coyotes have wideband sensors before the cats. And the rear sensors are narrowband, I believe. So, I'm not entirely sure how I'd install a simulator like that.

 

[skaarlaj]

has anybody ever tapped into the exhaust before the cats to measure the pressure at wot? I totally believe the 10-20 power loss, but I'd be curious how much back-pressure that amounts to.