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Phil

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how many of you are using aftermarket shifters and if so which one and how do you like it, Ford just told me both my shifter and cable are bad on a 38K mile car and want $1000 to fix it.
 

retfr8flyr

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The only aftermarket shifter that has any reputation is the TCI and it has mixed reviews. Why not get a used shifter and cable and install it yourself? It's and easy install and you should be able to pick one up fairly cheaply. Contact tigerhonaker on the forum, I know he has the TCI and he can fill you in on it.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Wish someone would produce one for the 13/14 auto. Stupid Select-a-shift.
 

Phil

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WTF are you doing wrong in order to wear out an auto shifter in 38K miles?

I have no idea,?

What is the issue you are having with yours?


The issue is if Im manually shifting it from low up it it doesnt click into the next gear, or if normally going from D to Rev it doesnt go into rev without paractically going to park then back to Rev to get it to engage.
 

05stroker

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Have you inspected the cable its self? You may have a broken clip or something.
 

05stroker

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Phil

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drive_55_not

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Got a link or pic of that, the service manual doesn't show it for the setting procedure.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=919&viewfile=Selector Lever Cable Adjustment.pdf

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


$1,000 to replace a shifter ???? That's literally criminal.

It's kinda hard to visualize but its shown in that procedure, the connector on the cable and the shifter has serrated edges so the adjustment is set by unclipping the connector from the shifter, manually setting the transmission and shifter into the DRIVE selector, then reinstalling the cable to the shift lever, that sets the correct length and allows proper throw,

If I understand correctly it doesn't sound like the shifter is locking into the correct slot when you shift?

There is a tension arm with a roller on it on the shifter ... that rolls into a detent corresponding to the gear selected that helps lock the shifter into that gear. That arm is screwed into molded plastic its possible that could've broke.

.
 

Phil

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$1,000 to replace a shifter ???? That's literally criminal.

It's kinda hard to visualize but its shown in that procedure, the connector on the cable and the shifter has serrated edges so the adjustment is set by unclipping the connector from the shifter, manually setting the transmission and shifter into the DRIVE selector, then reinstalling the cable to the shift lever, that sets the correct length and allows proper throw,

If I understand correctly it doesn't sound like the shifter is locking into the correct slot when you shift?

There is a tension arm with a roller on it on the shifter ... that rolls into a detent corresponding to the gear selected that helps lock the shifter into that gear. That arm is screwed into molded plastic its possible that could've broke.

.
What gets me to thinking that is that it detents properly going from Park down but not from low to park. I see the cable detents so I will try that since I have nothing to lose at this point.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

redfirepearlgt

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Seldom, just trying to figure out what's the best way for racing it, leave in D or manually do it?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I use slecta-shift (manual 1,2,3 on 11,12 models) to control the tranny during the burn out. Then its in D from the launch on. Let the tranny do the work. With some custom tunes (maybe most IDK) you have shift point flexability as well as shift firmness control to dial in your shift points. Properly tuned you may not have to mess with them. I datalogged at the track and went through 10 revisions on my custom tune before getting the car where I wanted it.
 

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