Bleeding brakes/TOB

[Hollowdweller]

I’m trying to bleed the brakes & TOB with no luck. The lines were disconnected for about a year I guess. I installed new calipers all the way around, new brake lines, and added a line lock solenoid. When I push the brake peddle its notchy feeling and goes to the floor every time. I’ve checked all the fittings for tightness (about to do that again) and it all seems tight, worried I’m over tightening now! I did get fluid out of one fitting (marked in red), tightened and no leaks since. It’s the line that I replaced for the line lock solenoid.

Besides when it leaked the 1st time I haven’t been able to get any fluid to suck out of the reservoir. I can hook the vacuum pump up to any caliper and suck what I’m assuming is old brake fluid out of the lines but the reservoir stays full.

Could the TOB not being “primed?” cause the brakes to not bleed?

Why can’t I hook to a caliper and suck fluid to it using the vacuum pump?

Tried all the YouTube vid tricks, can’t get anything to happen…?

Bonus question: in one of the pics you’ll see a braided steel line going to a sensor in the air filter housing. This was gonna be the oil feed for my turbo…will this sensor work like this? Will have air in the line probably

 

[brasil]

if air entered into the ALB Block... you need a special scanner to bleed your brakes. Inside the ALB Block you will "find " some valves.. and they need to be opened with a scanner tool - to let the brake fluid gone through.

If there is no air insed the ALB Block, you can use the " cavity bleed method "..just open all you bleeder screws just a little bit... and let the cavity work for you. But you need toobserve the fuild level in the MC reservoir.

 

[Hollowdweller]

if air entered into the ALB Block... you need a special scanner to bleed your brakes. Inside the ALB Block you will "find " some valves.. and they need to be opened with a scanner tool - to let the brake fluid gone through.

If there is no air insed the ALB Block, you can use the " cavity bleed method "..just open all you bleeder screws just a little bit... and let the cavity work for you. But you need toobserve the fuild level in the MC reservoir.

That would explain what’s happening…thank you!! When you say ALB Block is it the ABS Block? I googled ALB but just got ABS. I’m trying to find the tool you’re talking about. Don’t suppose my SCT would do by chance…? Do local parts stores rent out this tool? I’m sure air got in it

 

[GriffX]

In general Forscan has such a ABS bleed function, but not sure if also for the Mustang

 

[Hollowdweller]

In general Forscan has such a ABS bleed function, but not sure if also for the Mustang

I’m gonna try it!! Got the interface box ordered and program installed on the laptop. Can’t find anything specific for Mustang but it says 1996+ Ford should work…we’ll see. Thanks for the help

 

[pass1over]

There is an ABS bleed function in Forscan for the Mustang, my '12 at least. I've had to replace the ABS module and used it to bleed the internal valves.

 

[brasil]

@ hollowdweller
I use a AUTEL MAXI PRO Scanner.... this is a multi car scanner. And yes ALB is the same as ABS

 

[86GT351]

if air entered into the ALB Block... you need a special scanner to bleed your brakes. Inside the ALB Block you will "find " some valves.. and they need to be opened with a scanner tool - to let the brake fluid gone through.

If there is no air insed the ALB Block, you can use the " cavity bleed method "..just open all you bleeder screws just a little bit... and let the cavity work for you. But you need toobserve the fuild level in the MC reservoir.

This is correct. With an ABS system you need to tell the ABS valves to work to allow the air bubbles to pass. Not fun after sitting for long periods of time.

 

[Miker]

I am getting ready to replace my pads and I was going to change out the fluid as well. I was just going to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and refill with new and then proceed to bleed the brakes like I always have before. Staring at the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Adding fluid as needed.
I have an adapter for my vacuum tank I use to change the oil but I am not against having a helper in the seat while I am under the car either.
Am I going to run into issues with the procedure?

 

[Hollowdweller]

To my understanding…no. The only reason I’m having to do this is bcz I allowed air to enter the ABS module. It doesn’t make sense in my head to be honest but I haven’t seen one video saying in a normal situation you’d need to do this. I only saw it being done when I search for doing it this way.


Update: I got the laptop and obdII cable hooked up, turned the key on, everything starts reading, then it says “start and idle car”….well crap, I can’t do that just yet lol…but it all seeeeems like it’s gonna work

 

[Hollowdweller]

I am getting ready to replace my pads and I was going to change out the fluid as well. I was just going to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and refill with new and then proceed to bleed the brakes like I always have before. Staring at the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Adding fluid as needed.
I have an adapter for my vacuum tank I use to change the oil but I am not against having a helper in the seat while I am under the car either.
Am I going to run into issues with the procedure?

The above post was supposed to quote you…

 

[Autokyrios]

Yeah, generally if you haven't drained the hardline, the ABS module is fine. Just changing normal wear parts or even replacing the calipers won't cause you an issue (unless you leave the lines open for a long time, like the OTP did). If you're worried about it you can plug the line to slow the entrance of air, but I'd only do that if you were going to be doing something messy around the open line or you had to leave it for a week or so. But again if you're just replacing pads, you shouldn't need to worry about anything.

If you're getting ABS faults or having poor ABS behavior, it's time to check it, but otherwise it's likely fine.

Most scan tools that can do basic tasks beyond just reading ODB errors have an ABS process these days it seems. You can also borrow one that can from an auto parts store sometimes. Getting your own tool is a good item to have, and they're around $100 so the cost is justified with all the things most tools do. If you have a tuner like SCT, they have an ABS bleed function. Supposedly you can also jumper the pins on the connector to cycle the pistons but that sounds like it's risky.

 

[brasil]

@ Miker. @ all ... there is a way, to bleed /flush the ABS block... A little more work..but the trick works.
So first of all change out all the brake fluid...then go for a ride... look for a sandy way... or a something slippery... like grass..or so now you need to brake on the slippery underground...the ABS will start to work.. or in other words the valves start to open /close .. the brake fluid will be mixed up..with the newer one.. ( BUT BE CAREFUL ..LOOK FOR A TRAFFIC FREE SITUATION !! )

If you want to make a good job, you will bleed /change the Brake fluid one more time.. and you are good to go...


( But with a scanner... the job is way easier )