BMR relocation bracket failure pics

[andyman]

That's some scary picture. I just check under my car because i wasn't able to remember if i had one of those. And no, so i will sleep better tonight.

wouldn't you know though?

 

[GIG4FUN]

wouldn't you know though?

.... wish I had a mod fairy...

 

[GIG4FUN]

That's some scary picture. I just check under my car because i wasn't able to remember if i had one of those. And no, so i will sleep better tonight.

perhaps when you wake in the morning...they will be there!!!

 

[Boss281]

From BMR"S website "NOTE: It is necessary to weld the brackets in place if the vehicle will be drag raced "

If you look at the brackets design it is obvious, at least to me, that if you are depending on a bolt that is basically a pivot point, to not pivot, by depending on torque alone is asking for it. If you look at how it folded it's pretty obvious. As a minimum if I was going to depend on that one bolt only you would need a gusset or support tied in to the bottom of the bracket from the back side of the bracket that is basically flat steel asking for an excuse to bend.

When I bought the brackets the website said, and I quote:

"NOTE: When using bolt-in brackets, welding is recommended if 60 foot times drop below 1.50. "

Obviously, something happened to change their mind, and hell, I was getting pretty close to that anyhow. Either way, I SHOULD have welded it anyhow, discussed doing it, and it just slipped my mind.

Steeda, CHE, others have brackets. Any thoughts on what design seems to be a bit more "robust"?

 

[Enitalp]

.... wish I had a mod fairy...

Actually i'm not a mechanics at all. but last year i give my car key to my shop and say : i want those drag wheel on my car. and he did the job. Can't remember what exactly i've been made.

 

[andyman]

When I bought the brackets the website said, and I quote:

"NOTE: When using bolt-in brackets, welding is recommended if 60 foot times drop below 1.50. "

Obviously, something happened to change their mind, and hell, I was getting pretty close to that anyhow. Either way, I SHOULD have welded it anyhow, discussed doing it, and it just slipped my mind.

Steeda, CHE, others have brackets. Any thoughts on what design seems to be a bit more "robust"?

it was probably just the torque/weight transfer to that one side. And keep in mind that this probably didn't happen on ONE run only, it may have been weakened gradually to the point of bending

 

[GIG4FUN]

Steeda, CHE, others have brackets. Any thoughts on what design seems to be a bit more "robust"?

CHE all the way over the BMR in my view. They have a lot more meat to them and they have a edm/laser cut to match a notch in the factory boss.

 

[ArtQ]

When I bought the brackets the website said, and I quote:

"NOTE: When using bolt-in brackets, welding is recommended if 60 foot times drop below 1.50. "

Obviously, something happened to change their mind, and hell, I was getting pretty close to that anyhow. Either way, I SHOULD have welded it anyhow, discussed doing it, and it just slipped my mind.

Steeda, CHE, others have brackets. Any thoughts on what design seems to be a bit more "robust"?

YES! That's exactly what it used to say.....
Your situation is what changed there mind I'm sure. Like I said, I did get to see one of these fail at the track and it was just as ugly as yours. It just makes me wonder how they couldn't see this coming before. BMR generally makes some good stuff. But once you really look at it, well you know.
CHE's brackets show more support and look stronger being they are boxed, but I would still weld those.
I wasn't jumping on you John, just gets frustrating when we put our trust in some of the aftermarket stuff, even though some times that little "tickle" tells us not to.

 

[GIG4FUN]

I will get a picture up tomorrow night of the radius/notch/fit thing about the CHE that I was trying to explain. It is hidden in the above picture.

 

[Boss281]

I wasn't jumping on you John, just gets frustrating when we put our trust in some of the aftermarket stuff, even though some times that little "tickle" tells us not to.

Art, I know that. I just found it funny that when I looked at their site POST-failure, I see the text changed.

I'll have to see who sells the CHE part--I need to order it tonight.

John

 

[andyman]

Art, I know that. I just found it funny that when I looked at their site POST-failure, I see the text changed.

I'll have to see who sells the CHE part--I need to order it tonight.

John

http://www.cheperformance.com/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=209&cid=15

i think i'll get a set too....

 

[don_w]

If you're going to weld them anyway, take a close look at the Steeda. I've never been a Steeda fanboy (in fact I was intentionally trying to avoid using any Steeda parts on my car at all), but when I was looking to buy anti-squat brackets, the Steeda's impressed me the most. They are beefy (thick steel), can not be bolted on (must be welded), plus they provide 3 different locations for the LCA to mount into. There is no guarantee that the one single hole provided on the CHE will be the right location for your set-up. This gives you the ability to test three different LCA angles, and pick the one that works best.

 

[freebass55]

Art, I know that. I just found it funny that when I looked at their site POST-failure, I see the text changed.

I'll have to see who sells the CHE part--I need to order it tonight.

John

We have a vendor who does...PMP.

 

[thump_rrr]

I bought my BMR brackets in 2006.
I have since put over 800 runs in the 1.7x-1.52 range with no problems.
I have wanted to replace them with the Steeda units to keep with the Steeda theme of my car.
It looks like they will be moving to the short list.

 

[Mick Mach]

Don...those Steeda brackets do look nice!
here's a pic of my CHE's that somewhat show the locking tab.

 

[andyman]

i wish my M&H's were new.

 

[Dex]

I have CHE's and they are very heavy duty. Look better than the steeda or bmr IMO. going to weld them on for sure

 

[Boss281]

I'm going back and forth on this. I like the fact that the BMR has TWO holes for the LCA, plus the bolt PLUS welding. I'm calling BMR today to talk about the issue, but I need to place my order today to get my car back on the road so I can get the fender looked at.

John

 

[Hatchman]

I have CHE's and love them. Only 1 hole, true, but it puts my lca's level, which is where you want them.

If lca goes up in the rear, you'll squat.
Down in the rear, you'll understeer.

 

[don_w]

I have CHE's and love them. Only 1 hole, true, but it puts my lca's level, which is where you want them.

If lca goes up in the rear, you'll squat.
Down in the rear, you'll understeer.

Precisely the reason why having multiple location holes is a better idea. That one-hole may make yours level, but it may not make the next guys level. And for those of us who don't give a squat about understeer (pun intended), it's nice to be able to dial in even more anti-squat if we need it at the drag strip. And it can be put back to another angle in a few minutes if so desired.