Can the TR-3650 be dropped without draining the fluid?

[ghunt81]

So the only other manual transmission car I've dropped a transmission in before was my old '87 Turbo Coupe, which had a T5, and of course on the T5 when you remove the driveshaft the fluid will come out of the transmission so it has to be drained before removal.

Since this transmission has a flange on the end, there's nowhere that fluid can just leak out if the transmission remains upright, so does it have to be drained? Asking because I just put new oil in the transmission 2 years ago, so it doesn't even have 20K on it and it was royal purple so I spent a few bucks. Don't want to drain it if I don't have to.

 

[fdjizm]

It's sealed, so yes it can be dropped without losing any fluid, only spill is taking off the hydraulic slave line.

 

[ghunt81]

So here's one other question. When you drop the transmission does the shifter have to be removed from the car or can you just unbolt it from the transmission and leave it bolted to the body?

 

[fdjizm]

So here's one other question. When you drop the transmission does the shifter have to be removed from the car or can you just unbolt it from the transmission and leave it bolted to the body?

You can leave it on the body, the shifter is held on to the trans by two bolts the one on the shifter itself and the arm that goes forward and bolts to the trans after you take those two off nothing is holding the shifter to the trans.

 

[MrAwesome987]

Make sure you have your 3ft extension and multiple universals handy for the top bell housing bolts...

 

[oldVOR]

Along these lines, would it be better to take the bell-housing and transmission as one unit or unbolt the transmission from the bell-housing and remove it first, then, remove the bell-housing from the engine?

 

[MrAwesome987]

I would suggest pulling it as a unit. It's a pain, but it's probably the best way.

 

[Midlife Crises]

The 3650 is a one piece unit in the s197. Trans and bell house come out together. Also, you can reach the top two bell house bolts from the top.

 

[MrAwesome987]

Also, you can reach the top two bell house bolts from the top.

Not with a DOB intake on the engine... lol I haven't tried pulling the trans with a stock engine.

 

[ghunt81]

Make sure you have your 3ft extension and multiple universals handy for the top bell housing bolts...

Expecting that, after having done the same thing on my old Ranger. I hate pulling transmissions. Hoping I can reach it from the top.

 

[RED09GT]

I remove the intake manifold to get to the top two bolts, saves so much frustration.

 

[rocky61201]

For the top two bolts, use whatever tools you have to get it done. If you have what it takes to get at them from top would be the easiest. Other tips I've learned after dropping my transmission at least a half dozen times.

1. remove battery and battery tray first so you can unclip the passenger top 02 sensor connector. Do this before anything else while the car is still on the ground. Then jack it up. If you have access to a lift, use it!
2. The top bolt on the starter is a mo-fo. There is no special 10mm wrench or socket combination to make it easy. Thinking about it now, maybe slide a couple foot long section of vacuum hose over the bolt to get it lossened and/or started. Then use a wrench to torque to specs.
3. Have a vacuum cap handy to plug the throw out bearing clutch line once you disconnect it. Make sure you mouth is closed or else you will probably end up drinking some when you disconnect it.
4. When putting everything back together, raise the transmission into the tunnel and re-connect the clutch fluid line FIRST. Then worry about getting the transmission and engine bolted together.
5. While everything is apart. Properly measure for throw out bearing pre-load. Use shims on the throw out bearing if you have to. The magic number you are shooting for is as close to 1 inch as you can get, but NOT more than 1 inch. If you want your clutch to engage/disengage right in the middle of pedal travel then 1 inch of preload is the magic number.
Step 1 - Measure from engine block face to clutch fingers. Should be about 3 inches. Measure from bellhousing face to throwout bearing face. Should be about 2 inches. 3-2 = 1 inch. And you are perfect. If you ain't there, use appropriate shims. Think about it this way. When you hold a throw out bearing in your hands you can compress it with your fingers. The full travel will be about 1 1/4 inches.

 

[rocky61201]

Oh yea, ditch the royal purple transmission fluid!!!!! Multiple threads on here and everywhere else on why this fluid is bad for syncro rings. Do a search and you will find the threads.

 

[ghunt81]

Huh, didn't know royal purple was bad. What's recommended then?

edit: I looked and could only find one or two mentions of Royal Purple being bad. Now that I think about it I can't remember if I put RP in there or not...I know I put it in the rear axle but now I can't remember what I put in the transmission. May have been something else.

 

[rocky61201]

I use what Ford recommends. MERCON V ATF if I remember correctly. Fancy fluids will not increase the performance and feel of the TR-3650 as much as shifter, engine mount, and shifter bracket upgrades.

I have BMR engine mounts, an old UPR billet shifter that still works great, blowfish racing shifter bracket, AMP performance brass shifter bushings, and a properly shimmed stock ToB. All of that combined is very notchy and mechanical and noisy , but its a Mustang not an Escort.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

Recommend you use a ball the size of a baseball or such to plug the tail on the transmission. You may have to tilt it a little, and you don't want it running out the back. I use RP in my 08, and I'm happy with it. I had problems with shifting when the car was cold, and RP has made it a little easier.

 

[SPeace-ATL]

RP is not approved by Tremec for a TR3650. People changing to it report that they initially like the way it shifts. UNFORTUNATELY, from my professional experience, it is hard on the linings of the synchro rings and in about a year, maybe two, the rings will be shot. I think the stuff is just too darned slick... I've torn down way too many with the purple residue inside and seen the bad lining material first hand.

Stick with Mercon-V even if it is generic. If you want full synthetic, Mobil-1 Multi-Vehicle ATF meets the Dexron and Mercon specifications and is also approved by Tremec.

Tremec has allowed Synchromesh fluid such as Pennzoil for Synchromesh transmissions if you want something thicker, but that is old technology fluid and breaks down quicker than the other fluids, so if you are going that way be sure and change it often.

I want to add one little thing to the discussion about the 05-10 TR3650 being sealed. It has a vent on the top of the front housing that closes with an internal spring and rubber seal. IF you stand ANY TR3650 up on the bell housing with the fluid still in it and walk away you will have a puddle that came out of the vent when you come back to it. Just saying...

Stan

 

[ghunt81]

I'm only planning to drop the transmission and move it out of the way enough to change the clutch, definitely not going to be standing it on its end.

 

[06VistablueAZSaleen]

I used the Pennzoil Synchromesh in mine to get rid of a 1-2 grinding, and it has greatly reduced said grinding (170k on tranny). IIRC, that fluid is a lot like ATF (thickness wise), and I believe it is a full synthetic, so I don't think it should break down very quickly.

All I can say is that my tranny shifts a whole lot better - I would recommend that fluid to anyone.

 

[rocky61201]

RP is not approved by Tremec for a TR3650. People changing to it report that they initially like the way it shifts. UNFORTUNATELY, from my professional experience, it is hard on the linings of the synchro rings and in about a year, maybe two, the rings will be shot. I think the stuff is just too darned slick... I've torn down way too many with the purple residue inside and seen the bad lining material first hand.

Stick with Mercon-V even if it is generic. If you want full synthetic, Mobil-1 Multi-Vehicle ATF meets the Dexron and Mercon specifications and is also approved by Tremec.

Tremec has allowed Synchromesh fluid such as Pennzoil for Synchromesh transmissions if you want something thicker, but that is old technology fluid and breaks down quicker than the other fluids, so if you are going that way be sure and change it often.

I want to add one little thing to the discussion about the 05-10 TR3650 being sealed. It has a vent on the top of the front housing that closes with an internal spring and rubber seal. IF you stand ANY TR3650 up on the bell housing with the fluid still in it and walk away you will have a puddle that came out of the vent when you come back to it. Just saying...

He aint lying. I had RP in mine from about 30k to 120k. Blew the clutch and synchro's when I got locked out upshifting to 3rd at WOT around 6500PRM. Tried to force it and didn't want to let off the gas. This was before the upagrdes I mentioned above. When I tore the transmission down to rebuild it, all of my syncro rings were significantly worn down. Even 5th gear which never see's hard shifting. EVER.....

Read about the RP fluid problem and switched back to MEFCON V ATF. I've rebuilt my 3650 a couple times since then due to bearing issues. Each tear down all 5 syncro's were still good to go. But I always replace 2nd and 3rd just to play it safe.

There is a magnet in back of the 3650 by the drain hole. It was years ago but If I remember correctly when I tore down the RP fluid 3650 that first time that magnet was coated with that cabon fiber syncro shavings. I used MOBIL 1 synthetic MRECON V fluid one time as well. It wasn't as bad as RP but the magnet still had some significant shavings on it.

USE the stock FORD MERCON V stuff!!!!! Spend your money on other upgrades.