Can't figure out this vibration issue

Discussion in 'Tires and Wheels' started by sarjxxx, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    high current = large sized leads

    either or both connectors would work but this will kill power to the motor, and the rack will still function without assist.
     
  2. sarjxxx

    sarjxxx Junior Member

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    So I have some kind of update...

    I took the car to grab lunch earlier. When I got back and pulled into the parking space I noticed the ever so faintest of clunks when I turned to wheel to straight. After playing with the wheel back and forth for a bit I noticed that the clunk is definitely repeatable. Not sure why I never noticed this before but it is very slight so I guess I can see how I overlooked it.

    Should have more on this when I have a partner to turn the wheel for me to see if I can locate the source of said "clunk." It is so quiet I am not yet convinced it's part of the problem and it might just be normal operation of the rack.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  3. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    Probably the upper strut bearings

    I once called vorshlag about the noise and bad ride in these cars

    "just get a bmw! That's why they are called the ultimate driving machine!"

    I decided to get an Ibis Ripley instead.
     
  4. sarjxxx

    sarjxxx Junior Member

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    I'll look into that

    Hey man, you can't beat the gas mileage ;)
     
  5. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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  6. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    I believe the epas uses a 135A fuse. Just pull the fuse.
     
  7. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    it's.. kind of bolted on etc.. I'd rather unhook the harness.
     
  8. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

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    I used the Steeda HD adjustable camber strut mounts. These are a lot better than the oem strut mounts. I tweaked the steeda HD mounts for max negative camber. Steeda has a 5/8" bearing. The Vorshlag uses a 3/4" bearing.
     
  9. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    my steeda mounts are garbage. They came with incorrect O rings I had to replace, and the seat for the rhs thrust bearing was too shallow, allowing the seat shim to displace and break. It still functions, for now.
     
  10. sarjxxx

    sarjxxx Junior Member

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    Well, after more research I've come to the conclusion that it must be the rack. I realized I truly had no idea how the EPAS worked, as I always thought it was just a version of traditional hydraulic assist but with an electric pump. Yeah, oops. That explains why I could never find the pump assembly....

    Anyway, I've been noticing more steering drift lately as well which seems to have gotten worse since trying to diagnose the mysterious "clunk" that I mentioned. The clunk I thought was a loose tie rod but I've since learned that it only happens when the steering wheel crosses center. If I turn a lot to one side or the other and then start to turn back it won't do it, but will always do it when it crosses center by about a quarter turn either direction.

    Additionally the steering drift seems to be accompanied by a large amount of slack at center which is why I'm drifting all over the road. I can't help but feel like the two issues are related. I also believe this is what's causing the shakiness in the steering as it's allowing for too much movement in the toe position of the tires causing an imbalance/wobble.

    A lot of this of course sounds like loose tie rods but after inspecting for any "play" in the front end by jacking up one side and checking for in/out movement, I can't detect any slop between the two front wheels, they seem to be married nice and tight.

    So point being, all of this had led me to the only reasonable conclusion - it's time for a new EPAS unit. Now seeing as I do not have $1000 bucks laying around lol, I do have a few hundred on my amazon card so I'm thinking about this:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9NFTPF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_XBvyDbHY2M9YY

    Has anyone heard of this brand? They claim lifetime unlimited miles warranty, so that's assuring... Also does anyone have suggestions on the 17" vs 18" vs 19" wheels based racks? Since my car was base V6, my OEM unit should be the 17" non performance version but I have heard the 18" has a better feel, and I believe this particular unit is for the 18". Any thoughts on that?