Coyote engine removal tips

Fishstyx

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So, I need to pull my Coyote out of my 2011 for a refresh. I've searched the DIY threads and this forum and haven't turned up much regarding the details of an engine pull. I did find the Ford service manuals linked here and an engine removal procedure doc is included. I will follow the manual, but will have to adapt to accommodate my modifications. Any helpful tips before I get started would be appreciated. A couple specific questions:

1) If there's a good thread covering a Coyote engine pull out of an S197, first, mea culpa, second, where is it :)

2) The Ford procedure refers to a specific engine lifting bracket, and more importantly, and engine support bar that takes the weight of the engine to the mounts and transmission safely unbolted. How critical is the specific support bar? What are specific techniques to pull the motor without the bar?

3) What's should I do with the LT headers? Unbolt them at the manifold or pull them out attached to the motor?

4) How much under car work should I expect? I have a lift in my garage, and it looks like besides draining fluids and releasing the trans from the bell housing I don't have to do much more under-side disassembly.

5) Anything to particularly careful of that's not clear in the removal instructions (In the Workshop Manuals thread in this forum from 2010)

Thanks all
 

Shat9611

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The best tip i can give ya is if u have access to a lift and an engine hoist i would lift the car and drop the engine/trans, and k-member all together at one time this way you can leave the headers on during removal and its way easier to bolt them back on with the engine out of the car
 

19COBRA93

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Aside from the longtubes, pulling a Coyote is easy as cake. It comes out the top just as easy as any other V8 Mustang. As mentioned, because of the headers, if you can do it on a lift, that would be much better, but if not, it's still not a huge deal.

Pulling anything out of a nearly new car for a refresh sounds more like you broke something...What's the story?

Here is how I did my 5.4L with headers. All together out/in the top:


 
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dineau

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The best tip i can give ya is if u have access to a lift and an engine hoist i would lift the car and drop the engine/trans, and k-member all together at one time this way you can leave the headers on during removal and its way easier to bolt them back on with the engine out of the car

Always easier from underneath... Remove the front bumper cover, attach the engine hoist or crane to the front bumper support, disconect harnesses and unscrew k-member, transmision support, disconnect driveshaft then lift the front of the car by the bumper the engine will remain on the floor..
 

onebadgsx

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Always easier from underneath... Remove the front bumper cover, attach the engine hoist or crane to the front bumper support, disconect harnesses and unscrew k-member, transmision support, disconnect driveshaft then lift the front of the car by the bumper the engine will remain on the floor..

Makes it sound real easy....
 

Fishstyx

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Interesting advice to lift the car off it. I do have a lift in my garage. It's a MaxJax with 45" of lift. I'm going to have to impose for some additional details on the procedure to get the motor out the bottom. Specifically , how to get it off the engine mounts.

As far as why I'm doing this, i haven't broke anything yet, but I'm getting excessive blow
by. I've run the car mostly on road coarses and with over 600 hp on stock internals and without a larger radiator, she gets hot. Compression is down about 20-25% on 3 cylinders (can't recall which ones off the top of my head). I won't be tracking this car anymore so I want it reliable for the street and to eventually sell without the track tired motor.

BTW, thanks for the pointers so far. Once I dig into this ill chronicle my progress.
 
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Fishstyx

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Always easier from underneath... Remove the front bumper cover, attach the engine hoist or crane to the front bumper support, disconect harnesses and unscrew k-member, transmision support, disconnect driveshaft then lift the front of the car by the bumper the engine will remain on the floor..

Dineau, sorry I missed the part about the whole K member dropping. Ill have to figure out how do support the weight of the motor while unbolting th k member, no?
 

stang8psi

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Interesting advice to lift the car off it. I do have a lift in my garage. It's a MaxJax with 45" of lift. I'm going to have to impose for some additional details on the procedure to get the motor out the bottom. Specifically , how to get it off the engine mounts.

As far as why I'm doing this, i haven't broke anything yet, but I'm getting excessive blow
by. I've run the car mostly on road coarses and with over 600 hp on stock internals and without a larger radiator, she gets hot. Compression is down about 20-25% on 3 cylinders (can't recall which ones off the top of my head). I won't be tracking this car anymore so I want it reliable for the street and to eventually sell without the track tired motor.

BTW, thanks for the pointers so far. Once I dig into this ill chronicle my progress.

your rings are most likely broken on those 3 cylinders.
 

Fishstyx

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your rings are most likely broken on those 3 cylinders.
Agree, so I'd rather rebuild an intact motor instead of waiting for it to eat metal. When I get the area prepped, I'll pull the plugs and take some pics inside the cylinders with a borescope camera.
 

CSG

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Not familiar with the maxjax but make sure the car is balanced so it does not flip off backwards without the engine weight in it.
 

Fishstyx

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Any progress on this removal and build?
Not yet. I've been waiting for temps to get more comfortable in the garage before starting. I should start in the next week or two. I'm eager to get started because I haven't been driving the car out of paranoia that I'll lunch the motor right before rebuild.

I've decided to pull it out the top. I've concluded it's safer. My lift doesn't have ratcheting dogs, only fixed pins at medium and top lift. So, it's totally unsafe to get under at any other lift elevation and that's what I'd need to drop the motor out the bottom. I also have the issue of supporting the motor while unbolting the k-member.

So if I pull out the top (and don't pull the trans with it), my primary challenge will be getting the trans bolts undone. It's so very tight near the top of the bell housing. I've been told that it's practically required to tilt the motor back while still mounted to get to them. Unless I'm comfortable I can get them off I'll just pull it with the trans attached.
 

Fishstyx

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Out the top is how I pulled the engine out of my Foxbody racecar, but there's a lot more room to work with.
fox2.jpg
 
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5lho

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I always love these helpful responses...here's what I did with a car that's not your car, with a different engine and a different clutch config....HTH!
 
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