Engine and trans removal

[TheFourSixThatCould]

New here but long time stocker, I blew the bottom end of my 4.6 5spd and currently trying to remove the engine and trans as 1 as I heard this was easiest but it seems to be stuck, the trans that is. I have undone the 4 bolts to the drive shaft but was not able to disconnect the driveshaft and trans with limited jack room, and I undid the 1 bolt on the trans k member and both nuts that seem to connect to the trans, I’m wondering if I need to drop the entire k member, and if I must first physically disconnect the drive shaft front the back of the trans, I know there are 1000s of forums on this I’m sure but I can’t seem to find specific answers to these questions, and being my first engine pull at 20 I’m kinda lost, the engine wiggles around but won’t come forward. Thanks for any advice.

 

[JC SSP]

I have never pulled an engine from a S197, but several Fox platforms and F & G bodies, etc... but the drive shaft has to be removed for any engine/trans removal.

I have heard if you have a lift the front member can be unbolted and the body lifted from the engine/trans. Unfortunately, I do not have a lift at home, so never done it this way. I just raise the car as high as I can and use an engine hoist with a hand crank so I can tilt the engine & trans to maneuver it out. If I cannot get it out as an assembly, I will drop the tranny by itself and the engine just comes straight out. More than one way to skin a cat... LOL

Also, having a few competent friends to help out makes a big difference in managing the removal and installation.

 

[whitmanink]

i dropped a valve in mine, (you can look up post) i have a garage and the ceiling isnt tall (about 8 ft) so i had to remove just the motor , now 2 of my bellhousing bolts broke while trying to remove them,, but seems like you would be best doing just the engine,, remove the wiring harness from engine (keep trans pluged in) and jack trans up as much as you can to get the 2 top bellhousing bolts (a rachet wrench is ur best friend) (you must remove intake to get to these ) hook up the cherry picker,, remove all bellhousing bolts,, get a pry bar between the bellhousing and trans to separate ,,once split wiggle her and lift her out of the car,, of course the radiator and accessory's will need to be removed as well.. the exhaust must be unbolted at headers as well.. keep the motor mounts on engine and just unbolt from k-member

 

[whitmanink]

and altho i guess not needed ,, i used and engine leveler with my cherry picker

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

Picked up on this for dropped valves… now never tried but it makes sense. Make a threaded spark plug connector and apply compressed air into cylinder. Unless valve is broken, bent or other will push back out of cylinder.

Other would probably utilize rubber plug with orifice for air, worked for compression checks on end of gauge. Hand press-in and plug, maintain for air pressure and push up valve stem extraction.

Wait, yes have witnessed this and is old mechanic practice for valve work.

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

New here but long time stocker, I blew the bottom end of my 4.6 5spd and currently trying to remove the engine and trans as 1 as I heard this was easiest but it seems to be stuck, the trans that is. I have undone the 4 bolts to the drive shaft but was not able to disconnect the driveshaft and trans with limited jack room, and I undid the 1 bolt on the trans k member and both nuts that seem to connect to the trans, I’m wondering if I need to drop the entire k member, and if I must first physically disconnect the drive shaft front the back of the trans, I know there are 1000s of forums on this I’m sure but I can’t seem to find specific answers to these questions, and being my first engine pull at 20 I’m kinda lost, the engine wiggles around but won’t come forward. Thanks for any advice.

Have you tried with engine and tranny floating, pushing car back while pulling engine/tranny out forward, retaining constant up and out? Best I’m aware of that’s how it’s done at assembly, put in as one. Drive shaft might be a problem but seems possible as a few have changed from 2 piece to single shaft. Not sure exactly but pinion angle and rotation balance appears big trouble with that. Drives added after with assembly lol (no never really laugh, just smirk).

You know when Ford would OK more expense for 2fold operation vs single, something’s up? Don’t mean to hog Q&A but 2 different experiences.

 

[Laga]

You do not have to remove radiator to remove engine. Just disconnect exhaust and accessories.

 

[ILW84U]

It may be a stupid question but did you remove the shifter?

 

[TheFourSixThatCould]

It may be a stupid question but did you remove the shifter?

Haha yea I did man I almost forgot tho

 

[TheFourSixThatCould]

I’m going to just remove the carrier pinion on from the middle of the driveshaft tomorrow and hope that releases the tension keeping them connected for peace of mind, then also gonna drop the trans k member was hoping not to do this much work but I can’t think of anything else keeping the trans locked in place, since the engine seems like it wants to come right out.

 

[Juice]

Picked up on this for dropped valves… now never tried but it makes sense. Make a threaded spark plug connector and apply compressed air into cylinder. Unless valve is broken, bent or other will push back out of cylinder.

Other would probably utilize rubber plug with orifice for air, worked for compression checks on end of gauge. Hand press-in and plug, maintain for air pressure and push up valve stem extraction.

Wait, yes have witnessed this and is old mechanic practice for valve work.

Dropped valve = broken valve. And likely a piston that has taken up religion. It has become holey.

 

[TheFourSixThatCould]

i dropped a valve in mine, (you can look up post) i have a garage and the ceiling isnt tall (about 8 ft) so i had to remove just the motor , now 2 of my bellhousing bolts broke while trying to remove them,, but seems like you would be best doing just the engine,, remove the wiring harness from engine (keep trans pluged in) and jack trans up as much as you can to get the 2 top bellhousing bolts (a rachet wrench is ur best friend) (you must remove intake to get to these ) hook up the cherry picker,, remove all bellhousing bolts,, get a pry bar between the bellhousing and trans to separate ,,once split wiggle her and lift her out of the car,, of course the radiator and accessory's will need to be removed as well.. the exhaust must be unbolted at headers as well.. keep the motor mounts on engine and just unbolt from k-member

Any reason you say to keep the motors mounts connected? And i was hesitant having to pry the engine and trans apart from each other, always figured it would come apart easier, there’s only 7 bolts holding them together correct? 2 top, 2 passenger bottom and 3 driver bottom? I could just remove the engine then work on dropping the trans after

 

[pass1over]

And i was hesitant having to pry the engine and trans apart from each other, always figured it would come apart easier, there’s only 7 bolts holding them together correct? 2 top, 2 passenger bottom and 3 driver bottom?

The dowel pins are a much tighter fit than you would think they are. Especially if it's never been apart before.

I had the reverse issue with my coyote. When putting it back together, I kept thinking something was hanging up because I couldn't get the trans to push up against the back of the block. I had to draw the trans onto the dowel pins in the block. They're that tight of a fit.

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

Dropped valve = broken valve. And likely a piston that has taken up religion. It has become holey.

Roger that on “dropped valve” meaning actually broken, agreed won’t help there. Just would use air to keep entire valve, stem and all from dropping as I always took it when replacing seals or else.

Thanks for clarification, good answer just never ran across called that before. Never mechanic employment either, just the factory manuals, much winging it and even more “now why ever did I do that??”.

 

[Racer47]

The engine will come out with or without the trans. Its easier without. You definitely need to disconnect the driveshaft. I'd take off the trans mount too. Plus the clutch line. The trans is a tight fit on tunnel. So you'll need to drop it down first then move the engine forward and up. Lowering the k member doesn't get you much but it doesn't hurt either. You can drop it about an 1" without removing the bolts completely.

You may run out of height with the cherry picker to get the trans out over the radiator top mount. If so, you'll need to lower the car to get the trans to come out.

Remove the radiator. Unbolt any remaining a/c condenser mounts. Push it forward for clearance and not to damage it.

I have like new, 10k mile stock engine parts that I'll sell reasonably cheap, crank, rods, bearings, pistons, rings, cam chains, phasers, oil pump and probably more. I saved everything when I built my motor.

 

[whitmanink]

Any reason you say to keep the motors mounts connected? And i was hesitant having to pry the engine and trans apart from each other, always figured it would come apart easier, there’s only 7 bolts holding them together correct? 2 top, 2 passenger bottom and 3 driver bottom? I could just remove the engine then work on dropping the trans after

for me it made sense to just unscrew the mount nuts and lift the motor up ,, like i said you want to jack the engine and trans up as high as you can on the firewall , than remove the engine from trans and it comes right up

 

[TheFourSixThatCould]

The engine will come out with or without the trans. Its easier without. You definitely need to disconnect the driveshaft. I'd take off the trans mount too. Plus the clutch line. The trans is a tight fit on tunnel. So you'll need to drop it down first then move the engine forward and up. Lowering the k member doesn't get you much but it doesn't hurt either. You can drop it about an 1" without removing the bolts completely.

You may run out of height with the cherry picker to get the trans out over the radiator top mount. If so, you'll need to lower the car to get the trans to come out.

Remove the radiator. Unbolt any remaining a/c condenser mounts. Push it forward for clearance and not to damage it.

I have like new, 10k mile stock engine parts that I'll sell reasonably cheap, crank, rods, bearings, pistons, rings, cam chains, phasers, oil pump and probably more. I saved everything when I built my motor.

I’ll lyk about the parts once I get it torn apart man, plus ok it sounds like I should be just pulling the engine for now, is there really any tips to separating it from the trans beside 7 bolts shouldn’t be much more correct? Just use a pry-bar and evenly try to get it off?

 

[FredB66]

As long as the trans and motor are each both fully supported, you shouldn't have any problem. The dowel pins that align the trans to the motor can be a little stubborn but a little shaking and pulling will probably do the trick, but you may need a little help with a pry bar. I had my trans out a few months ago and separating them was fairly easy. Mating them back together was difficult.

 

[Racer47]

Don't take all the bellhousing bolts off. Leave 2 or 3 in, that are 1/4" loose. Wiggle and pry the trans loose. It will come apart.

To make everything much easier, make 2 alignment bolts. Figure out the metric bellhousing bolt size and then buy 2 bolts that size but 4" (100 mm) long. Cut the heads off. Then grind about 3/4" down to a taper (not the threaded end, the end where the head was). Thread these into the bellhousing.

As you get the trans loose, keep loosening the 2 remaining stock bolts. Eventually the last 2 stock bolts come out and the trans slides off on the 2 alignment bolts. This takes the load off the pilot bushing and the clutch disk. And it will make reassembly much easier.

If this isn't clear, I can take and post pics of my alignment bolts.

 

[Midlife Crises]

The alignment bolts you mention work great for assembly. I slot the end for a screwdriver blade to make them easier to remove.