2010 auto transmission issue..

[O_M3G_A]

Hey guys new here, have a little issue hopefully you guys can help me figure this one out..

I bought the car off OfferUp a week ago, had a mechanic do a full inspection(just in case I missed something) took her home(~95 miles) after it was smogged and after I was given a green light by my mechanic. A few days later I decide to drive her... nothing the car won’t move in reverse, drive, 3, 2 etc..

I checked fuses, shift linkage, everything and couldn’t find anything wrong, so as a last attempt wile on “D” I pressed on the gas pedal until it almost reached 4K rpms.. boya! transmission was alive again and operated normally so I took her into the garage and proceeded to check the trans oil.. well.. the oil was dark similar to used engine oil but with a slight color to it(red) but had NO burnt smell to it. I removed the drain plug and drained what was in the pan, once it drained I refilled the exact amount with fresh Mercon V.. the car was running normally again, so the following day I made the same procedure to flush most of that dark trans oil.. (and yes I’m fully aware that this isn’t the correct way to change the trans oil)

Since then I’ve put a little over 200 miles, the transmission shifts SMOTH and operates normally, unfortunately it has happened again, 2 times to be exact and to fix it, I just simply put it in park and I rev up the engine to 4K which fixes the issue..

Does anyone one know what could be causing this?? To make matters worse I’ve also gotten the following codes in one lovely package:
P0403
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P0443
And TPS light has come up 2 times, blinks for almost a min, stays solid, then magically turns off after a few mins or a short drive.. most likely one of the sensors is going bad.. just don’t know if it’s ALL related.. :/

Talk about buyers remorse Jesus.....

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Sounds like you might have the same problem as this guy:

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/2007-auto-complete-transmission-failure.139143/

 

[DieHarder]

Since it's intermittent you may have an electrical issue - connections, solenoids, servo's - or it could be as simple as tightening the bands (easy; free if you do it yourself). You didn't say how may miles were on the car? V6/8?

Codes: All of them point to Exhaust sensors or PCV. Cannot say what the connection is between these sensors and the trans malfunctioning. Maybe someone else has a better idea...?

P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Ckt
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Ckt
P0141 - OBD-II generic code indicating the Engine Control Module (ECM) has tested the O2 sensor heater circuit and detects a problem with the bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor heater circuit.
P0155 - O2 Sensor – Heating Element Failed (Bank 2 – Sensor 1)
P0161 - Bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor is not warming up properly due a problem in the oxygen sensor heater circuit.
P0443 - OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has detected a malfunction with the purge control valve or its control circuit.

Might be worth taking it into a dealer/mechanic to hook up to a test rig. If it is solenoids or needs bands tightened that's relatively cheap compared to a rebuild/new trans. If servo's there are kits on the market that don't require a full rebuild and can be accomplished at home for ~$300 to replace both servo's (last time I checked). If interested in more info on them let me know.

 

[O_M3G_A]

Sounds like you might have the same problem as this guy:

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/2007-auto-complete-transmission-failure.139143/

The difference is that mine shifts smooth, without issues after it gets going and the RPMs don’t fluctuate, meaning there are zero signs of the trans slipping.. my brother described it as it being low on fluid or a problem with the high pressure solenoid.. (or just the dirty oil, was told these trans solenoids are sensitive to dirt, and debris.. would make sense since after changing 3 quarts of ATF, trans acted normal for a few days)

Since it's intermittent you may have an electrical issue - connections, solenoids, servo's - or it could be as simple as tightening the bands (easy; free if you do it yourself). You didn't say how may miles were on the car? V6/8?

Codes: All of them point to Exhaust sensors or PCV. Cannot say what the connection is between these sensors and the trans malfunctioning. Maybe someone else has a better idea...?

P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Ckt
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Ckt
P0141 - OBD-II generic code indicating the Engine Control Module (ECM) has tested the O2 sensor heater circuit and detects a problem with the bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor heater circuit.
P0155 - O2 Sensor – Heating Element Failed (Bank 2 – Sensor 1)
P0161 - Bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor is not warming up properly due a problem in the oxygen sensor heater circuit.
P0443 - OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has detected a malfunction with the purge control valve or its control circuit.

Might be worth taking it into a dealer/mechanic to hook up to a test rig. If it is solenoids or needs bands tightened that's relatively cheap compared to a rebuild/new trans. If servo's there are kits on the market that don't require a full rebuild and can be accomplished at home for ~$300 to replace both servo's (last time I checked). If interested in more info on them let me know.

An electrical issue was also on my mind considering the random CEL I get once in a wile, and from my experience IF a sensor is bad, you get a CEL right away after clearing the code, or reconnecting the battery, in this case it takes a wile for the CEL to come up(if it comes on) it’s the 4.0 with 162k.

The first time the CEL came on there was just 1 code, a P2067... after that were 10 codes...

Thank for the help! I really appreciate it!!

 

[DieHarder]

Here, check out this kit and related failures on the 5R55S:

If servo bores are the issue you can get a kit that fixes worn servo bores for ~ $210 from the site below. Replacing them is a bit tricky (their may be a shop in your area who has installed these kits before; see the list on the site below) but this kit can potentially fix what normally requires a full rebuild, drilling and a re-sleeve of the servo bores.

Site: https://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/
Kit: https://www.fordservoboretransmissi...Mustang,_Requires_partial_tranny_removal.html
Solenoids: https://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/directionsinstall-guide.html - lists a pdf guide for taking solenoid readings.

Cheapest/quickest fix available IMHO if your problem is the servo's. The servo's can be replaced while on the car but you typically have to lower the trans a bit to get enough room to remove & replace the servo's. You must be careful Not to cut/break the o-rings on the servo's during installation as they're the key to sealing the bores. I would order extra o-rings just in case.

 

[O_M3G_A]

Well.. today it happened again, also got the CEL with 10 codes.. and the wrench icon too... I’ve given up... I ended up taking the car to my nearest Ford dealership.. let’s see what they have to say tomorrow..

 

[Juice]

Well.. today it happened again, also got the CEL with 10 codes.. and the wrench icon too... I’ve given up... I ended up taking the car to my nearest Ford dealership.. let’s see what they have to say tomorrow..

A wild ass guess, replace trans with a Ford reman.

 

[DieHarder]

What were the codes? If they match the symptom codes listed on the site for worn bores check the listing for shops in your state/area who have installed them before:

https://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/directionsinstall-guide.html

You can of course attempt a replacement yourself if you want. To verify symptoms you might want to call and talk with the company or call one of the shops listed to see what they think/recommend to nail down the issue. Given the miles you have on it I'll hazard a guess that servo bores are at least one of if not the main issue you're dealing with here since it shifted fine otherwise when working. Let us know what dealer testing reveals. If they say worn bores, slipping belts and rebuild the trans might be worth a second opinion.

 

[O_M3G_A]

A wild ass guess, replace trans with a Ford reman.

Just got off the phone with the Ford technician, was told that the car was driven 7 miles and that the transmission performed great and didn’t noticed any shifting issues.

Lastly, they did acknowledged that the car has an intermittent issue after the car has been sitting for a wile, it won’t go on R, D, they checked the trans fluid and was told it’s overfilled... 2 quarts overfilled to be exact, so for now, they are recommending a full flush with new filter, and a computer re-pogram for $600..

 

[DieHarder]

"they checked the trans fluid and was told it’s overfilled."

Wonder how that happened.... We'll, I'd forego the "computer reprogram" (wasted money IMO). Have them change the oil/flush/refill, change out the trans filter and call it a day. Then call AJ1E; describe your symptoms and see what they have to say. I spoke with them yesterday and feel they're very knowledgeable and well experienced on these transmissions. They didn't try to sell me anything and they mentioned other items to look at that may be more of a concern in your case.

 

[Doug Huggard]

Maybe have them take a look at the wire harness as well. All those o2 sensor codes could in a way be related because they are on the same section of harness as the transmission. Check for pinched wires, rub throughs etc. With the issue being intermittent like that, I'd be more looking towards an electrical (solenoids included) or software issue rather than mechanical. A fluid level or servo issue would manifest itself while driving shifting through gears.

 

[O_M3G_A]

Maybe have them take a look at the wire harness as well. All those o2 sensor codes could in a way be related because they are on the same section of harness as the transmission. Check for pinched wires, rub throughs etc. With the issue being intermittent like that, I'd be more looking towards an electrical (solenoids included) or software issue rather than mechanical. A fluid level or servo issue would manifest itself while driving shifting through gears.

I actually took the car back, I’ll inspect the harness myself to save a few bucks.. I took the car back because they didn’t even drop the oil pan BUT they came to a conclusion that I need a new transmission that’s worth $5k... I’ll drop the pan myself later to day to inspect..

 

[DieHarder]

Since it does shift fine when it works I'm thinking your symptoms likely point to sticking solenoids ((the fluid was dirty when you checked it so chances are passages/solenoids are dirty/sticking; when you rev it up the pressure is enough to get them working temporarily) hence the intermittent symptoms)). You can replace a solenoid pack fairly easily and can get one online (reman) for around a $100.

Actually, it's not too bad to replace one without pulling the trans; and can be done on jack stands but easier of course if you can use a lift. While you're at it replace the trans filter, gasket/s if needed and any other items that look sketchy while you're in there:

I'd try that first vice redoing band adjustments or the like. For around $150 in parts/consumables you can eliminate sticking solenoids, replace the filter/clean and inspect/check wiring/connectors at the same time.

 

[O_M3G_A]

Since it does shift fine when it works I'm thinking your symptoms likely point to sticking solenoids ((the fluid was dirty when you checked it so chances are passages/solenoids are dirty/sticking; when you rev it up the pressure is enough to get them working temporarily) hence the intermittent symptoms)). You can replace a solenoid pack fairly easily and can get one online (reman) for around a $100.

Actually, it's not too bad to replace one without pulling the trans; and can be done on jack stands but easier of course if you can use a lift. While you're at it replace the trans filter, gasket/s if needed and any other items that look sketchy while you're in there:

I'd try that first vice redoing band adjustments or the like. For around $150 in parts/consumables you can eliminate sticking solenoids, replace the filter/clean and inspect/check wiring/connectors at the same time.

Unfortunately it’s not the solenoids caused by dirty oil, after hours of research and taking it to a transmission shop for a second opinion, it’s turns out it’s got what many gear heads refer to as “morning sickness”.. basically when the car sits for a long time, the fluid in the torque converter drains back to the pan.. on a normal healthy transmission this doesn’t happen, and on transmissions with a godly amount of miles the drain back is very minimal almost non existent.

Now this 5R55... unfortunately it’s has (according to the guy at the shop) a worn pump bushing, allowing too much air into the system therefore draining the fluid off the torque converter, so when I try to put the Mustang in gear it slips, since it’s full of air instead of ATF, That’s why when I rev the engine it engages since it forces the air out and fill the converter with fluid again..

At this point I was recommended a rebuild not a complete overhaul, new clutches, seals, and a new pump assembly to remove any metal material that might be left.... at a cost of $1500..

I might just do the rebuild myself to save money.. but knowing me the car is going to sit for years..

 

[DieHarder]

Thanks for the update. The pump/pump bushing was one of the concerns that AJ1E mentioned. You might get lucky and find a low mileage secondhand unit online but the prices are probably close to what you'd paid for a rebuild. I've seen people rebuild them on their own but that is a job. Good luck.

 

[86GT351]

Unfortunately it’s not the solenoids caused by dirty oil, after hours of research and taking it to a transmission shop for a second opinion, it’s turns out it’s got what many gear heads refer to as “morning sickness”.. basically when the car sits for a long time, the fluid in the torque converter drains back to the pan.. on a normal healthy transmission this doesn’t happen, and on transmissions with a godly amount of miles the drain back is very minimal almost non existent.

Now this 5R55... unfortunately it’s has (according to the guy at the shop) a worn pump bushing, allowing too much air into the system therefore draining the fluid off the torque converter, so when I try to put the Mustang in gear it slips, since it’s full of air instead of ATF, That’s why when I rev the engine it engages since it forces the air out and fill the converter with fluid again..

At this point I was recommended a rebuild not a complete overhaul, new clutches, seals, and a new pump assembly to remove any metal material that might be left.... at a cost of $1500..

I might just do the rebuild myself to save money.. but knowing me the car is going to sit for years..

message me your VIN number. I want to look at something on the Ford site for you.

 

[O_M3G_A]

Update:

On Friday night as I was getting ready for a family trip, I got in touch with an old friend who happened to have a working low mileage transmission for the car. At the time I only asked what year/engine it came out of(53k, 2009, 4.0L), told me hes had the transmission on his garage for a good few years and If I wanted the transmission I could take it for 50 bucks, said YES and told him if he could drop it off at my house for an extra 20 since I was going to be out of town...

Well I got home yesterday and ohhh boy... its a manual T-5 transmission without a bell housing..... should of asked if it was a manual or an auto.. I got it for a steal but a tad useless for my needs, unless I try a conversion which brings me to my next question.. how hard would it be to convert the mustang from auto to manual? and would it be worth it?