Separate from mine and other threads that are more qualitative discussion of coyote swap process and progress, the purpose of this thread is just a collection of FAQs/information related to the coyote swap. There is disbursed information all over the internet but not well consolidated. I will keep the top-most posted edited with any new information or new questions that need to be answered. Unanswered questions are labeled in bold as: New_Question: Anyone who knows the answer, please respond and I will add the answer back into the top-post. Similarly, if there are other unanswered questions, ask them in a new post and I'll add them to the top. As a starting point, all of the information below is derived from Lito's coyote swap thread - with just a bit of paraphrasing to keep it concise. -------------- S197 Coyote Swap FAQ Page -------------------------------- On Gauges Lito used stock instrument cluster from the 07 2011+ gauges will not fit without modification; plugs are also different Q: What was done to get the tachometer to work? Lito: just connect CAN bus Only 3 of the Instrument Cluster gauges are PCM-dependent – RPM, Speedometer, and ECT. The Instrument Cluster is likely the most important piece of the CANBUS network moreso than the PCM and it acts as a bridge between controllers which is why it makes sense to leave the 07 Instrument Cluster installed. Q: Does the speedometer work? Lito: Not as of now. Coyote’s OSS is 3 wire and our cars are 2 wire. Need to test that but I think it will not be an PCM-IC link issue but an OSS sensor instead, don't know if we are going to get it working or how if we do yet but we are going to try. Later on Lito wrote: Most of the wiring is done. Speedo works, will have a video by wednesday. New_Question: What was done to get the speedometer working from previous? Power Steering and AC Options: Power Steering 1.) Maintain existing hydraulic power steering • Power By The Hour Relocation kit Pros: Maintains stock hydraulic steering pump and AC position allowing them to be bolted to the Coyote block. Rotates alternator 180 degrees. Can be configured to work with VMP and Roush supercharger systems. Cons: Less flexible for other brands of supercharger additions. • Ford Racing Boss 302R Power Steering Pump Bracket Pros: Relatively cheap bracket maintains existing hydraulic power steering support Cons: Mounts in the location of the AC compressor 2.) Convert to 2011+ EPAS system Requires a 2011+ K-member, along with tuning correction for the EPAS in the control pack PCM Air Conditioning System 1.) Use Power By The Hour Kit with existing 2005-2010 AC compressor 2.) switch to 2011+ AC Compressor and lines. Lito: A/C is complicated as both systems differ a lot, modded some stuff in the calibration to make it work but has no pressure control so won't be used for now waiting on some parts I have to order from Ford to test a solution Later… Lito: AC issues have been solved by changing something in the calibration to delete the pressure sensor and route the clutch activation line thru a relay that works with the stock pressure switches, we have AC cycling as expected and all. New_Question: If staying with the 2005-2009 AC using the PBH relocation brackets, is any calibration required? Is the AC controlled by the PCM or IC? Return-style fuel system Lito: for now, stock pump hat modified for return with aeromotive regulator at the firewall. Austin: To clarify on this one, my understanding is this: Return-less fuel delivery uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to control the duty cycle of the DC fuel pump and maintain a quasi-constant fuel rail pressure. Return-style fuel delivery uses a DC fuel pump always at 100% duty cycle (i.e. 100% PWM) with a mechanical pressure regulator that allows excess fuel pressure to bypass back into the fuel tank via a return line. My understanding has always been (and it seems Lito’s statement confirms), transitioning the S197 into a return-style fuel system should be as simple as installing a fuel pressure regulator, return fuel line, and removing the PWM wire from the existing fuel pump. Like all DC motors, the absence of a pulse-width modulation signal should just leave the pump running at 100% duty cycle all the time. New_Question: Any flaw to the above logic? Lito is this what you did? Later Lito wrote: Forgot to add, need to test wiring so fuel pump would prime and stop. New_Question: Other than removing the PWM signal to the fuel pump, what wiring was required to get the fuel pump to prime/stop? Transmission - The FRPP coyote control pack is designed to work with a manual transmission and includes clutch-pedal position sensors. - The 5.0 coyote will mate up to the 3650 transmission but will need a flywheel/clutch solution to mate up with the 11-spline input shaft. New_Question: Lito – initially you ran with the 3650 – what flywheel and clutch did you use that had the 11-spline input required for the 3650 transmission? Q: Is there anyway to get the 2011+ auto trans working? Lito: Initially I don't see why not but you will need someone that know his way with wires and electrical upgrades, I would do it without getting the control pack as the PCM would not work, you would need all the harnesses that go to the PCM and mix wiring with the stock you have. Lingering Feature Functionality Lito: Everything is working in the car, except the traction control, made some calibration changes so the EVAP would work New_Question: Sounds like ABS works fine? In the absence of traction control working, is the IC panel light for traction control lit up and is there a way to disable it?